Question about 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora

1 Answer

Last winter my passenger side cv joint busted in half, im still not sure what could have caused it but i had my brothers help me replace it and we got it on but it felt funy and my brake rubbed on the rotor for a while but that prob went away, but the car has always been hard to handle, well yesterday i took the tires off the front and checked and saw that on the drivers side the cv joint was firm when i try to wiggle it, but on the passenger side(the side they helped me with) it was wiggly, now i know this shouldnt be wiggling but could this have happened before because of something else being wrong with my suspension or something? or did we just not put it on all the way when we replaced it?

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  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Sep 02, 2010

    when you did the first replacement, did you change the whole axle or just the joint? CV joints are tricky, so I always just replace the whole axle. I don't think you can do it wrong as long as the splines go in both in the transmission and into the hub and torque the nut.

  • davekraklio Sep 03, 2010

    yeah, idk much about car parts, but i know it was the whole passenger side axle which included the thing that goes into the center of the hub and the other side goes into the trans., that was the part that broke before, that case that held the gears and bearings, (bearings i think) busted in half and i had a cv joint flopping around under the car everytime i started it. i know this is probably not much more clearer than my last post but im not very car savvy! hope it helps though!

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Sep 03, 2010

    OK, if the joint is bad, it will probably clunk in a sharp turn. Try turning the wheel all the way in each direction and drive in circles. If it is bad, maybe you should have a professional replace it this time. I don't know what your friends might have done wrong, but have never seen these wear out except when the boot tears open allowing dirt into the joint. It could be that the replacement axle was not rebuilt right at the factory.

  • davekraklio Sep 04, 2010

    okay so today i was driving down a road that was high up ( low ditches) of coarse its WINDY out so my car was going side to side all down the road, found out my back shock is busted and the air hose was cut , looks like a diagonal cut, so thats another thing to add to my already building repair list, THE CLUNKING was what it was doing before it busted the first time, then one day i floored it out of a parking lot and it busted in half and the ?bearing holder? was broken in three pices all over the street.... and when they put the new one on they did have to use a piece of 2x4 to get it in the trans so idk that might have tore the boot, either way i'm not too what caused it to go the first time, but maybe just being old? i did have no pwr steering for like 2 months though maybe that wore out that side or something :P

  • davekraklio Sep 05, 2010

    no no i can't move it in or out of the trans, just the rod part of the joint when i try to move it, it was movable but only front to back not side to side its stuck in the trans thought it just the i think the boots messed up and its not solid inside it anymore :(

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  • Master
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I have done several of these and the repair if fairly straight forward - BUT, you absolutely must make sure the side of the shaft that goes into the TRANs, that the slip ring seats inside the trannie. If it doesn't it will allow play and cause the trannie to leak and likely ruin the axle shaft bearing.

Posted on Sep 03, 2010

  • davekraklio Sep 04, 2010

    uh that might be it, would that ring missing make it hard to get the joint into the tranny, because im not sure what they did they might have misplaced that ring we were working out in the melting snow and they didnt know what they were doing but they're farmboys lol they fix anything! Also my trans does not leak anywhere on the ground its clean except for water from a/c whch has been leaking in the passenger side floor i think , lol or it might be from when i went flying through a DEEEEP puddle, but its just on the front passenger side floor,. any way little off topic so yeah ill take my car and check this problem out cuz i think it has to do with aLOT more than just a ring, might just be that its not well maintained, i sorta beat the car when i first got it(teenage joyridin') doin' 136 down a shitty road that sorta stuff :D

  • William Charnigo Sep 04, 2010

    When the shaft is pushed into the transmission you need to give it a good quick push and you will feel the ring snap in. At this point the shaft will be locked in place and won't pull out unless you pry it out. If you can move the shaft in and out with your had - it is NOT locked in. It's a little hard to do because you have to check the shaft between the transmission and the first CV joint - because the joint itself will allow movement and that's ok.

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Have a plymouth breeze, every time I turn left it was making a loud clicking noise, now it sounds like a really bad loud scrubbing noise when I turned and drive starting last night. So it I cant drive it....


Probably a bad CV joint on one of your drive axles to the front wheels. You have two drive axles coming out of the transaxle, one to each front wheel, and both have an inner CV joint where they enter the transaxle, and an outer CV joint where the axles fit into the wheel hub. (A CV joint is really like the old U-joints, serving the same purpose.) A clicking noise on turning is usually a badly worn outer CV joint. The cheapest fix is to buy a remanufactured half-shaft for your car. That is the axle shaft with both CV joints at each end inspected and reconditioned with new grease and CV boots installed. You need to know which side is bad before buying. The half-shaft is sold ready to install. Someone with good mechanical skills will need to remove the old one and replace it with the new reconditioned axle shaft, or half shaft as they are also called. The last time I bought one (about two years ago) the cost was reasonable- about $65.00. That is less than the cost of one new CV joint.
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I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?


CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.


  1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
  2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
    boot from the joint outer race.
  3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
    outer race (the body of the joint).
  4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
    assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
  5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
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  6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
    to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
    of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.


  1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
    is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
    inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
    shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
    together. Insert the balls into the cage.
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  4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
  2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
    that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
  3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
    halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
  4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
    shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
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To Install:


  1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
    vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
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  2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
  3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
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  4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
    distance between boot bands is correct.
  5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
    cable.






Check the CV-boot for wear
tccs7030.jpg








Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
tccs7031.jpg








Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
tccs7032.jpg








Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
tccs7033.jpg








Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
tccs7034.jpg








Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
tccs7035.jpg








Removing the CV-joint
tccs7036.jpg








Inspecting the CV-joint housing
tccs7037.jpg








Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
tccs7038.jpg








Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
tccs7039.jpg








CV-joint snap ring (typical)
tccs7040.jpg








Removing the CV-joint assembly
tccs7041.jpg








Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
tccs7042.jpg








Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
tccs7043.jpg




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Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

3 Answers

CV JOINTS?


The CV joints are needed to transfer the torque at a constant speed to steered wheels as well as to accommodate up and down motions of the suspension.
You will find CV joints in all front-wheel drive cars. Many rear- and four-wheel drive cars and trucks have CV joints as well. The CV joint is packed with grease and protected by the rubber or plastic boot.
It does not require any maintenance and supposed to last very long provided that protective boot will not get damaged.

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1 Answer

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Have them replace the entire axle with a rebuilt for aound $70-100 cost.  After they buy the CV and the boot kit, you will be close to that amount ... and they will still have to get the joint off the boot on, the cv on and attach the boot to the joint and shaft ... sometimes these boot kits don't fit right .. and they haven't done many and may not realize it doesn't fit right!

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1 Answer

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