CV-Joints
OverhaulThese vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.
The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).
NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.
The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.
NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.
Double Offset JointTo Remove: NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.
- Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
- Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
boot from the joint outer race.
- Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
outer race (the body of the joint).
- Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
- If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
- Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
of the shaft at this time.
To Install: NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.
- Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
together. Insert the balls into the cage.
- Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
- Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
bands is correct.
- Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.
Except Double Offset JointTo Remove:
- Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
- Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
- Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
- If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.
To Install:
- Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
damper, if used, in the correct order.
- Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
- Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
- Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
distance between boot bands is correct.
- Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
cable.
Check the CV-boot for wear
Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
Removing the CV-joint
Inspecting the CV-joint housing
Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
CV-joint snap ring (typical)
Removing the CV-joint assembly
Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
when you did the first replacement, did you change the whole axle or just the joint? CV joints are tricky, so I always just replace the whole axle. I don't think you can do it wrong as long as the splines go in both in the transmission and into the hub and torque the nut.
yeah, idk much about car parts, but i know it was the whole passenger side axle which included the thing that goes into the center of the hub and the other side goes into the trans., that was the part that broke before, that case that held the gears and bearings, (bearings i think) busted in half and i had a cv joint flopping around under the car everytime i started it. i know this is probably not much more clearer than my last post but im not very car savvy! hope it helps though!
OK, if the joint is bad, it will probably clunk in a sharp turn. Try turning the wheel all the way in each direction and drive in circles. If it is bad, maybe you should have a professional replace it this time. I don't know what your friends might have done wrong, but have never seen these wear out except when the boot tears open allowing dirt into the joint. It could be that the replacement axle was not rebuilt right at the factory.
okay so today i was driving down a road that was high up ( low ditches) of coarse its WINDY out so my car was going side to side all down the road, found out my back shock is busted and the air hose was cut , looks like a diagonal cut, so thats another thing to add to my already building repair list, THE CLUNKING was what it was doing before it busted the first time, then one day i floored it out of a parking lot and it busted in half and the ?bearing holder? was broken in three pices all over the street.... and when they put the new one on they did have to use a piece of 2x4 to get it in the trans so idk that might have tore the boot, either way i'm not too what caused it to go the first time, but maybe just being old? i did have no pwr steering for like 2 months though maybe that wore out that side or something :P
no no i can't move it in or out of the trans, just the rod part of the joint when i try to move it, it was movable but only front to back not side to side its stuck in the trans thought it just the i think the boots messed up and its not solid inside it anymore :(
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