Question about GMC Yukon

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I have a 2001 yukon with autoride. there is no air in schocks do they have to have air without a load

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Yes a little, the rubber boot should be hard if you where to push on it, ive done a few of these that had bad motors, these are the air compressor motors i speak off, have the body module scanned for any codes. these codes will point you in the right direction, also after getting the pump going make sure there are no leaks in the shocks, this is how many compressors go bad the shocks leak and the compressor runs to keep the truck level that it overheats and cooks, hope this is helpful, theres also a relay and some have a relay module that also goes bad, but start with the check for codes.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

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Why is my autoride not kicking in when I attach my trailer


The autoride system has three main parts. The first is the very large, complex shock absorber that has not only a sensor to detect shaft travel in the shock but also has an air ride feature that allows more air to be added into the shock and bladder system to increase the support to the rear end. The shock can go bad ($623.00 each MSRP, though you can get them from Monroe for about 250.00-check Amazon.com but be prepared to wait, they have been on backorder recently.) The control module can go bad....check everything else first...or the air pump can go bad.

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My autoride suspension is not working


A ton of things could be wrong with your autoride system. If you have more than about 70k miles and haven't replaced the rear shocks ($500+ EACH!!! at the dealer), then they are probably leaking out. If they leak out, then the air compressor will always run. Eventually the air compressor/ride level sensor module (located on the driver side rear wheel on the inboard side of the frame, $300+ at the dealer) burns out because it's not designed to run at 100% duty cycles. After the air compressor burns out, the Electronic Stability Control module (in an XL, located inside the passenger side rear wheelwell trim, next to the third row seat, $300+ at the dealer) will probably short out. If your autoride isn't working and you don't get a "Service Stability" message, your ESC module is probably going bad.

It is possible to convert to regular shocks, but to keep the Stability Control (still has to control your brakes and front variable dampening shocks during "evasive" maneuvers), you have to insert some 1/4 watt resistors in to the ride height sensor connectors (can't remember what values, but I'm sure you can Google that) so that the Stability system doesn't throw a code. Not that it matters, but the message can get annoying if it's always there to nag...

My dealer quoted over $2500 to replace the entire system. I figure I can find the control modules from my local junkyard for $300, and the shocks from ebay for $350 for the pair. Be sure to match all of the GM part numbers, and keep an eye out for an upgraded Air Compressor module - GM released an update that is heavier duty and more water-resistant than the first design. I don't remember the part number, but my dealer included the upgrade with my quote.

Oh, and the only "easy" way to test the modules is with a Tech 2 tool. Otherwise it's lots of testing with a 12-volt source and a couple of multimeters and oscilliscopes...

Good luck!

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