Question about Toyota Camry

2 Answers

10 amp gauge fuse keeps blowing. Took it to the shop and found out all they did was replace it with a 25 amp fuse (it blew a few days later). The fuse blows immediately when i put the car into gear and press the gas. After it blows, the car drains the battery until it won't run anymore. Any solutions?

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  • Amanda C Sep 02, 2010

    Can you find out what the fuse controls? There should be a simply diagram on the fuse box lid.

  • princepeach Sep 02, 2010

    it's listed simply as the Gauge fuse. It controls all the gauges (fuel, rpm, etc), the blower for the Air conditioning, as well as the power windows.

  • Jeffrey Turcotte
    Jeffrey Turcotte Sep 02, 2010

    Please identify exact car you have and which fuse is blowing in the box. I will take a look at the wiring diagram and get back to you with ideas for troubleshooting.

  • princepeach Sep 02, 2010

    it's a '93 toyota camry. 4 cylinder. It's labeled as the gauge fuse, which is the 10 amp fuse second from the left on the top row.

  • princepeach Sep 02, 2010

    The car is a '93 toyota camry, 4 cylinder.

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It could be another fuse that is causing the problem. Check all your fuses and make sure that they are all in good condition. Fuses are cheap, so you could replace most of them for under 10 bucks I'm sure.

If that doesn't do it, then you might have a grounded wire somewhere. You can physically look for any grounded wires behind the fuse box, or in the engine compartment. Or you can get an electronic fuse checker, or probe.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

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  • princepeach Sep 02, 2010

    before I took it to the mechanic, I used a fuse checker and the only one blown was the gauge fuse. I haven't had a chance to check yet today (it's early here, and still dark outside) but I'm pretty confident it's still just the one fuse.

    I have suspected a grounded wire, but i don't know how to get access to them to check. I'm totally ignorant when it comes to messing with car electronics.

  • Amanda C Sep 02, 2010

    The basic wires to check - Battery cables, alternator cables and harness, any wires underneath the steering wheel. Any wires that you see on top of the engine or around the engine compartment. Just look for wires, follow them all and see if you can find any broken, torn, melted or crossed wires. Also check around the back of the fuse box if you can, with a flash light, and make sure it isn't rusty there, or that there isn't a bunch of calcium build up.

    If you can't find it from there, or that seems to intimidating, I would take it to an auto electrician or a mechanic.

  • Amanda C Sep 02, 2010

    The basic wires to check - Battery cables, alternator cables and harness, any wires underneath the steering wheel. Any wires that you see on top of the engine or around the engine compartment. Just look for wires, follow them all and see if you can find any broken, torn, melted or crossed wires. Also check around the back of the fuse box if you can, with a flash light, and make sure it isn't rusty there, or that there isn't a bunch of calcium build up.

    If you can't find it from there, or that seems to intimidating, I would take it to an auto electrician or a mechanic.

  • Jeffrey Turcotte
    Jeffrey Turcotte Sep 02, 2010

    please--what model, year car are we talking about?

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Possible that your alternator rectifier/regulator is defective and the unit needs a replacement.
There is no repair to be done to this unit but to replace. so check this out.
There is no other section which can be draing on starting and has a relativity to the charging of the battery .
So check and comment on my advice .

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

  • princepeach Sep 02, 2010

    i don't think it's the alternator, because before the 25 amp fuse the mechanics had installed blew, i had no problems for 4 or 5 days. If the alternator wasn't charging the battery, it would have died well before then. i have a 45 minute commute to work each day.

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