Question about 1966 Ford Mustang

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1966 mustang will not start has new coil -points-and condenser

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

whispers76
  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: 1966 mustang engine cranks but wont start

There's two possibilities. No spark, or no fuel getting to cylinders.

I would change the plugs regardless. If you haven't driven it in a year and it was parked with fuel still in the carb. You will probably want to pull the carb and rebuild it. The old fuel is likely gummed up inside the carb.

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 1966 mustang starts will not start.

Starts & can be driven, How far? Does it only go so far & quit? How's your choke settings on the carb?

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: 1966 ford f100 will not start

Have you checked the starter solenoid? Replace this and see if you're getting fire then. They are usually suspect and the first link in the chain between your battery and the distributor.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: 1966 ford f100 inline 6 cyl 300\r\engine turns

Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.

Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.

Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.

Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).

If no dwell signal, then...

1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.

This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.

2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.

3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.

4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.

5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.

If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.

If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.

If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: firing order for 1966 ford mustang 200 cubic inch

The engine is a 200 CID straight six, the firing order is 153624...

21a4dc6.jpg

Just pop the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor.

How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)

Quick methods to disable the engine I have seen people do on the classics:
Close the points by loosening the set screw
Pull the rotor cap
Connect a wire from the coil to ground. (effectively closes the points. Can damage the coil if key is left on.)
Pull the main ignition wire
And there are some tricks at the starter solonoid involving the ballast resistor bypass that is used to provide a hotter spark while cranking. (Two little wires at the starter solonoid - one is crank the other is the ballast bypass.)

Might give those a look-see. Best of luck (rememeber rated this help).

Posted on May 17, 2010

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1 Answer

1967 ford mustang coil is getting so hot it turns of could this be from my points not gauged right? Plus at idle it sounds rough where do I start?? Help please


I would check voltage to the coil

It should be less than 12 volts

Iam a 1960's guy, but don't remember the exact voltage
There should be a resistor before the coil

Points are set to a specific gap or you use a dwell meter,
at least back in the day

The distributor needs to be on a clean surface ,so the points
& coil can ground out properly.

The idle could be valves,vacuum leaks,carb,any number of things

You may want a grounding strap from engine to body & sub frame

Check the alternator for AC Leakage (current ripple)

Aug 06, 2011 | 1966 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

I have a 66 Mustang with a 6 cylinder. I am getting no fire from coil , but have 12 volts to it. The coil and alternator are both new. Can someone help?


Have you checked the points? Pop your distributor cap and turn the engine over a little, Make sure they are opening and closing, and there is nothing in them. Clean them with a point file. They should open about the width of a hack saw blade.

Sep 07, 2010 | 1966 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Why is it that my 1966 ford mustang is not holding a charge after replacing the alternator and short circiut relay


THE 1966 FORD MUSTANG YOU HAVE EXTERNAL FIELD RELAY ITS AIR GAP IS .015 POINT GAP .020. VOLTS TO CLOSE 2.5 VOLTS THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR AIR GAP .049 - .056 POINT GAP .017 - .022 VOLTS AT 125 DEGREES TEMPERATURE IS 13.8 - 14.4 VOLTS.

Jul 12, 2010 | 1966 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

I have a 1966 Mustang. 200 six cyl, auto. PROBLEM will not start no spark, replaced coil, ign switch, voltage regulator, plug wires, dist cap, electronic ign. still no spark Help. drove her 2 weeks ago run...


Check to see if you have Power at the coil when the ignition is in the run position. Try to put the points on High cam so the points do not burn when you do this test. Also see if your Rotor is turning. You could have a broken timing chain or sheared off a Drive pin in the Distributor gear.

Check your Polarity at the coil. I do not see a new condenser as a replaced part, try a new one. Would be interested in knowing what you found.

Jul 13, 2010 | 1966 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

Firing order for 1966 ford mustang 200 cubic inch


The engine is a 200 CID straight six, the firing order is 153624...

21a4dc6.jpg

Just pop the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor.

How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)

Quick methods to disable the engine I have seen people do on the classics:
Close the points by loosening the set screw
Pull the rotor cap
Connect a wire from the coil to ground. (effectively closes the points. Can damage the coil if key is left on.)
Pull the main ignition wire
And there are some tricks at the starter solonoid involving the ballast resistor bypass that is used to provide a hotter spark while cranking. (Two little wires at the starter solonoid - one is crank the other is the ballast bypass.)

Might give those a look-see. Best of luck (rememeber rated this help).

May 17, 2010 | 1966 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

No fire


I would check the points and condenser. Also check the coil and coil wire. Also check for power to the coil with the key on. You might have a bad fusible link.

May 02, 2010 | 1966 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

1966 ford f100 will not start repalced points plugs wires coil voltage regulatornot getting any fire


Have you checked the starter solenoid? Replace this and see if you're getting fire then. They are usually suspect and the first link in the chain between your battery and the distributor.

Dec 11, 2009 | 1966 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

How do you install lap belts on a 1966 ford mustang?The floorboard was replaced and there are no anchors on the new one.


I would search online or call older Mustang parts suppliers to find mounting hardware.

Here's an example of one retailer that might have what you need or point you in the right direction...

http://yhst-95280463928743.stores.yahoo.net/hardware-only-one-grade-5-quotlquot-bracke5.html

tech support email support@retrobeltusa.com
phone #909-364-1372

Oct 23, 2009 | 1966 Ford Mustang

3 Answers

1966 mustang engine cranks but wont start


Guide to starting a dead horse!
1- Spray a little starter fluid down the carbuerator. If it tries to fire, your timing and ignition is probably OK. This could indicate a carb or fuel pump problem.
2- If it doesn't fire, check out the points, condenser, coil, distributor cap and rotor. Look for condensation inside the cap. Check that the high tension wire from the coil to distributor is in good shape and not touching the engine or any brackets,etc.
3- Verify that your timing is correct. You may have a timing train problem (Worn or broken).
4- The distributor may have come loose and changed positions. Check for proper timing.
5- It may be a compression problem. If it has set long enough for the oil that coats the cylinder walls to drain down, you won't have enough compression to allow firing. Check your compression and if this seems to be the case, remove the spark plugs and squirt a little Marvel Mystery oil, or similar light weight oil into each cylinder. When it starts, it will smoke for a few minutes, but that will go away.
Hope this helps and if not, get back to me.
Have a super day!
Ron


Jan 11, 2009 | 1966 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

IGNITION COIL/67 MUSTANG V-8


negative to the points, positive to the hot wire that goes to the firewall.

Aug 19, 2008 | 1966 Ford Mustang

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