Question about 1966 Ford Mustang
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There's two possibilities. No spark, or no fuel getting to cylinders.
I would change the plugs regardless. If you haven't driven it in a year and it was parked with fuel still in the carb. You will probably want to pull the carb and rebuild it. The old fuel is likely gummed up inside the carb.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
SOURCE: 1966 ford f100 will not start
Have you checked the starter solenoid? Replace this and see if you're getting fire then. They are usually suspect and the first link in the chain between your battery and the distributor.
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.
Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.
Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.
Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).
If no dwell signal, then...
1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.
This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.
2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.
3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.
4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.
5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.
If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.
If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.
If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
The engine is a 200 CID straight six, the firing order is 153624...
Just pop the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor.
How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)
Quick methods to disable the engine I have seen people do on the classics:
Close the points by loosening the set screw
Pull the rotor cap
Connect a wire from the coil to ground. (effectively closes the points. Can damage the coil if key is left on.)
Pull the main ignition wire
And there are some tricks at the starter solonoid involving the ballast resistor bypass that is used to provide a hotter spark while cranking. (Two little wires at the starter solonoid - one is crank the other is the ballast bypass.)
Might give those a look-see. Best of luck (rememeber rated this help).
Posted on May 17, 2010
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