Question about 1993 Volkswagen Eurovan

4 Answers

Hi there I have a eurovan aaf 1992 auto, and I have no spark. I have replaced, hall sender, coil, ecm, ign switch, i have a fully charged battery, grounds are good, but still no spark. Help! I am running in circle cow. What else is possibly cause this problem?. I have good voltage at g/w wire with a probe on distributor plug, LED light up, but dosen`t clearly blink when cranking. I have good 11.6V at the coil, but absolutely no spark when grounding a spark plug and cranking.

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  • leloup_27 Sep 01, 2010

    hi there. Thanks for your answer. The van is a 1992, and as far as i know there is no immobiliser. I have replace the ignition plastic parts only which is looking exactly like old school rabbit, and golf switches. What else do you think could be the problem ?

  • leloup_27 Sep 02, 2010

    Anybody have an other solution as my van is a 1992 and there is no immobiliser in north america before 2000. I have replaced 3 different CPS all new with no result. I do have 12V when Ignition on but no led flickering at the distributor connection when cranking. When I follow bently step by step it still say`s Hallsender defect. 3 different is more likely to be impossible. Three different ECM from working vans,Brand new ignition etc... hell of a gremlin

  • leloup_27 Sep 02, 2010

    help! please anybody with eurovan t4 knowledge wanted for advice. And by the way there is no crankshaft sensor but camsensor that i have replaced 2 time... thanks though. heeelp!!!

    Thanks

  • leloup_27 Sep 02, 2010

    Now I got the right person to answer, although I can`t figure how to `teste`the coil.





    You said 1 ;( disconnection of the negative side from the electronic unit connection must get you to test the coil)

    - You mean the ground @ the connection to the Ignition control module right under the coil ?



    You said 2 ;( then the sensor to the impulse must be checked.This is for sure faulty)

    - You mean the cam position sensor ? if yes I have replaced it twice with brand new parts.



    You said 3; ( check once again the signal sensor for the ``voltage switching`` (L.E.D Flickering???), You can simulate and check to confirm the absence of the impulse to the coil.)



    - Here what i do to test it. I have insert probe @ distributor connection and a L.E.D tester and there is no ``pulse`` when engine cranking. I do have the same result @ the ICU (ignition control unit). connection. Power when ignition turned on, but no blinking when cranking.



    Now is the ICU can be the problem when there is no blinking @ the Distributor connection ?





    Thanks for your help. I hope to understand your testing procedure.




  • leloup_27 Sep 03, 2010

    Thanks for the diagram. I finally replaced the coil a second time, with a new unit, and it it working.

    Thanks

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4 Answers

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  • Master
  • 11,896 Answers

Check the crankshaft position sensor. #1 cause of no spark

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 02, 2010




    Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance
    between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to
    the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance.
    Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center
    high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any
    significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is
    defective.


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 03, 2010

    Not a problem! Glad it worked out! Thank YOU for using Fixya!

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  • Volkswagen Master
  • 14,036 Answers

A FAULTY IGNITION MODULE.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

  • Jonah Oneal Sep 02, 2010

    YOU HAVE POWER TO COIL.BUT COIL NEED TRIGGERING DEVICE.THE HALL EFFECT SENDER AND IGNITION MODULE FIRES THE SPARK PLUGS.

  • Jonah Oneal Sep 07, 2010

    IF YOU REPLACED ROTOR AND DISTRIBUTOR. THEN CHECK TIMING.IF DISTRIBUTOR TIMING TOO FAR ADVANCED YOU WONT GET ANY SPARK.

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  • Volkswagen Master
  • 17,129 Answers

You have changed too many items in a rush but it would have been good if you had checked the impulse( the make and break) to the coil that must produce the spark.
As you know when the ignition is switched on the positive power comes to one side of the coil, the positive side and the negative of the coil must get the ground so that the coil is momentarily connected to produce the EMI in the primary coils to initiate the high voltage on the secondary HT windings to spark.
So disconnection of the negative side from the electronic unit connection must get you to test the coil. Once this is established then the sensor to the impulse must be checked.
This is for sure faulty , check once again the signal sensor for the voltage switching, You can simulate and check to confirm the absence of the impulse to the coil.
Please check and comment.
Please dont forget to rate me.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

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  • Volkswagen Master
  • 22,156 Answers

1993 ?' one of the first with a BUILT IN IMMOBILISOR ,best advice i give here is to call a tow truck and take it to the dealer ,when you changed ignition switch did it have a transponder ,like a coil around the switch barrel if so then its dealer only job ,if the switch came with another key then inside the key fob is a magnetic bar code and without the original bar code it will never start ,try holding the original key next to existing one andf then try starting it

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

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