Question about 1988 Ford Taurus
First, have your battery checked as they can go bad this way. There are many possible problems to diagnose in wiring. Go to Autozone or Oreillys for a free scan and ask for the charging system test. It is possible for an Alternator to ground out and discharge the Battery.
The main switch inside your vehicle is the Ignition switch. If it is worn out it may not shut off the silent connections like the spark to your computer or any electric component that goes on when you turn the key.
When these main items are eliminated you are left with wiring. To test the wiring you use an Ohmmeter and disconnect both battery cables from the battery. You attach the Ohmmeter to the two loose battery cables. The reading you get is called a circuit.
When you turn off your car, there should be no circuits with the exception of the Antitheft. When you use an Ohmmeter with a scale it is easier to see a change in the circuit. One by one remove and reinstall the fuses on the fuse panel. Usually the fuse that causes the biggest drop is the culprit.
On my 1988 Taurus, I had a badwire in the wiring loom on the Drivers side. This limited the problem to controls in the door. The Power windows for all 4 doors, the locks, the Keyless entry Pad, the Drivers power mirror were all in that door. In my case,I was getting a Shock touching the car.
I hope this information helps you. Electric problems are challenging.
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you are jumpering the starter, then the battery is not being drained, the starter may have a bad solenoid.
If the problem still is a dead short, a painstaking troubleshooting is required.
Remove one fuse at a time, check for voltage drop, and see which one is the culprit. Then you woud have to locate each item on that circuit and trace the wires for one that is broken, or pinched & contacting ground.
Also, check at night or in a dark garage, as trunk, door, or hood pin switches may be stuck in the open position - and will keep the lights on.
Interesting note - your having to jumper the solenoid on the starter indicates a possible worn/damaged ignition tumbler. If your tumbler is not seating on the OFF detent, your ACC may still be left on even with the key out of the ignition.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
First of all, one of the easiest & cheapest ways to find a draw in the system, if you don't have a clamp on style amp-meter, is with a 12volt test light that costs about $5-$10 at parts stores or hardware stores. You remove positive (+) cable from battery, and simply attach test light in between the battery cable & battery + post. Be careful neither end touches metal obviously. Anytime the test light is lit, you have a draw. If light is nice & bright, it's a fairly good draw, when dim, slight draw. When light goes out, no draw. Now start pulling and re-installing fuses. If you pull a fuse and bright light goes out, you've isolated the circuit.. I usually make sure I have notes or whatever is needed to insure I put fuses back where they should be, then I pull radio fuse and leave it out, as it will cause a constant draw for memory, and sometimes any accessory fuses such as lighter, or power socket for 12v chargers etc. With those out of the way, start pulling and watch light, if no change, put it back in. When I run into a real stumper, I make necessary notes if needed as before, and pull them all out, and light should be off. Now I start putting them in 1 at a time, and watch the light, when it comes on, I note that circuit, pull it back out, and do same with the rest. When your done you will have notes on every circuit that is causing a draw on your battery when sitting. Before you start, take your test light, go to all the fuses and touch little tips sticking out at end of fuses on both side to test for power, if only power on one side, that is a circuit that would not cause a draw when sitting & vehicle off. That would only be powered when key on, headlights on for example, so it doesn't come into play here. Leave those in if you want & it doesn't confuse you. Yes a little time consumming, but hey, think of the learning experience, and a simple test light, is something that every car owner should have anyway. Next time your wondering which fuse blew, you have a test light to tell you. As far as the heated seat goes, if there is a short there, and it's causing a lot of draw, pulling fuse should eliminate & confirm that.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
SOURCE: my battery is draining overnight
Hi I am vortash I would say ( unless you have not replaced the battery recently ) that you have a faulty battery not holding it's charge this can happen for several reasons the main three being bent plates due to heat weather draw etc .. poor electrolytics solution weak in battery ,, cracked or damaged terminals..
The other possibilities is the alternator is not giving the battery a good charge check the drive belts if they are ok you need to check the output should be 14,2 or above on tick over measured at battery any less and the battery will not get sufficient charge to last ... regards Vortash
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
check the ground to battery and clean posts if need be, also make sure that the alternator is at proper charging rate. a fully charged battery with engine off should read at least 12.5 or higher. when running the battery should read 14 volts or a little higher. clean corrosion from case also if need be. if the above does not work check engine ground.
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
the onley thing you can try is to disconect the radio and see if that takes care of the problem i have seen this lots of times if this does not fix the problem you will have to take it in the digoness prosess is verry long and requires a parisect draw test
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
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