Question about 1993 Lincoln Town Car
Compressor clutch could be slipping caused by improper air gap adjustment between plate and hub at high ambient temps ford recommends a spacer kit
Or maybe an undercharge situation.
What really helped my car that you could do on your own and probably needs it would be to flush out the heater core in both directions. Buy a plastic heater core flush valve at kmart or somewhere and just cut the line and hook it up also has a bleeder on them that will allow you to get all the air out. I've never bought one but seen one at kmart and would have bought if done over again. Go ahead and also do a coolant flush. Most shops don't do heater core flushes. I didn't run a flusher chemical in my radiator but that may not be a bad idea to run in your car for a while before you flush out your system. Couldn't hurt. Recommending flushing in both directions inlet and outlet of your heater core hoses located middle of firewall back of engine passenger side until water runs clear. Have your car running with heat on high as the garden hose water is flowing through and lower radiator hose is disconnected. Tip: Qty for coolant in your car is appx 14 quarts. So add 100% concentrate after your done flushing w/ garden hose and everything is drained as best as can be. Your engine will still have 100% water in there as all the engine passages and tunnels are unable to drain unless maybe you put some air pressure to it. So add 1 1/2 gallons (6qts) of 100% coolant or two gallons if its really cold. Yeah two gallons 8qts max. I doubt that you will even be able to put that much in before it over flows. So that way you know your capacity and you know whats in there is water and what your adding is mixing it 50/50 So after you put your 6-8 quarts of straight 100% yellow or green coolant in fill the remaining up with water. Could blow out all water with air pressure and mix with distilled or whatever (metal free) water if your real picky or have irony well water. Also recommended fill-up after your done connecting all your hoses is the upper radiator hose thermostat housing located top left (driver side) of radiator on the engine side of the hose. I would remove the thermostat housing on engine side upper radiator hose and replace thermostat and not buy the gasket unless really really bad. Rubber is forgiving. And costs almost as much as the thermostat. Anyways you must fill from that location by removing thermostat and pouring coolant there until full. I remember removing something to have better access to one bolt on thermostat housing just to make hob a bit easier. My rule of thumb is if you have to work just as long taking a hard to get bolt off as removing something in the way, just remove it. Usually saves time in the long run. Finish by replacing thermostat or not and use same gasket and button up. Fill reservoir, check for leaks, start car, check for leaks, drive a bit and fill reservoir afterward and check for leaks. Hose clamps should only be tightened till they are just below level of the rubber. Until it seems the rubber is just skimming over slightly. Over tighten and you will greatly reduce the life of your hoses and probably cause the leak yourself. Hope this helps Thanks
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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