Question about 1990 Chevrolet Camaro

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I have a 1990 camaro rs with no fluid/pressure at rear brakes. The pedal don't move when bleeding the rears. I have replaced rear wheel cyls/lines and a new master cyl. I replaced master because pedal was dropping at standstill. I bench bled master before install, and I tried to get new combo valve but gm discontinued them.

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  • Master
  • 4,066 Answers

Make sure the master cyl is mounted flush against the firewall, If you put spacers or washers in the wrong place the plunger won't go all the way in.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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94chevy 1500 can't get the rear brakes bled


I had a experience with a car that REFUSED to let all air out its lines, and a friend of mine bought 4 vise grips, and gently grabbed the three hoses (from each wheel) that where not beeing bleed.
first he grabbed all four wheels, and notices a slight mush on the pedal and said that the master cyl was not properly bleed, he bleeded the cyl in a bench, then assembled the cyl and now the pedal was very stiff, then procedded to remove rear-right hose, and the pedal almost went to the floor, THERE WAS THE BUBBLE!, and bleeded acordingly, then reatached the vise grip on the OK line, and released the one on the rear-left, slight mush and bleeded, and so on. each time he tested for possibly air bubbles in each sector (master cyl, or lines, or caliper or aux cyl itself).
BUT!, IF your master cyl is NOT pumping fluid to the rear, probably the proportioning valve is broken (if yours has ABS, might the abs valves are dirty, and thus NOT closing and letting pressure go other way, because a failed abs pump SHOULD behave transparently, I mean , not interfering with the braking operation)
get quality FLARE WRENCHES, because the air bubble MIGHT not be right in the bleed bolt in the caliper/aux cyl.

Aug 06, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Replaced some brake line, rear pads and one rear wheel cylinder. Now no pressure and nothing happening when trying to bleed.


Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?

Jul 07, 2013 | 1997 Mercury Tracer

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes


to bleed brakes is a relatively easy job for two people although it can be done by one without a pressure bleeder.NOTE keep brake fluid levels above minimum at all times during bleeding ( forgot to do it my self on more than one occasion and had to start over, trying to do too much at once) To do by your self you will need the correct ring spanner for bleed nipple, a clear tube that is a tight fit on bleed nipple ( long enough to reach down to floor) and a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it (glass jar will do it, is easier to see fluid level), Starting with the cylinder/caliper at rear furtherts from master cyl (longest brake line from tee piece) place spanner on bleeder then fit tube, placing other end of tube into container below level of fluid,. release master cyl cap/lid (no need to remove completely) undo bleeder half a turn, watch for fluid in clear tube. this should start to flow within 10 to 15 seconds (if bleeder isn't blocked with road grime clean if required), if fluid doesn't flow by it self (it should but) tighten bleeder then release again quarter of a turn, apply foot pressure to brake pedal, hold pressure on pedal till you feel pedal dropping towards the floor (half inch of pedal travel should be enough) ( fluid in container will stop air being drawn into brake lines when you release brake pedal) check clear tube for fluid/bubbles, open bleeder further quarter turn, if fluid has filled clear tube allow fluid to fill container a further eight of an inch, then close off bleeder (make sure no bubbles appear in tube whilst this is happening other wise drain more fluid till only brake fluid is visible in tube ) repeat process on opposite wheel cyl/caliper, then repeat process on front caliper furthest from master cyl , then the caliper closest to master cyl last. If two people are doing the bleeding the same clear tube and container are used,as is the order in which cyl/calipers are bled. One sits in the car and pumps the pedal until it has some resistance under foot (Whilst the pedal is held down) second person releases bleeder, first person keeps pressure on pedal whilst bleeder is released (pedal will travel towards the floor) when pedal has been depressed as far as it will travel second person closes bleeder before, the first person releases pedal and pumps the pedal again repeating the process until no air bubbles appear in clear tube at this cyl/caliper before moving to next cyl/caliper. good communication must be maintained to make this process hassle free

Jun 22, 2012 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

I have a 2004 Land cruiser and changed the right rear brake cyl and brake shoes . What is the proper procedure to bleed the rear brake system. Thank you for your help.


  1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
  2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
    2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
    3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
    4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.

  3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
  4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
  5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
  6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
  7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
  8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Aug 07, 2011 | 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

No brake fluid to the rear wheel cylinders


You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

Feb 21, 2010 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

3 Answers

Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale


do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

Jul 20, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

No pedal


Hello;
Did you bleed the master prior to installation? If not you may have a bunch of air trapped in the system. Start at the master and use a pressure bleeder too get the air out. If you have anti-lock you may have to have the dealer purge the system.
Thanks;
Rich
RPM Northwest

Jun 04, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Ram 2500

2 Answers

Changed break line but still have no pressure in breaks


to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.

Apr 07, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

2 Answers

Brake line leak


start from the farthest, right rear, left rear, right front, then left front, take some time in bleeding your left front since it has more air induced during line replacement. good luck!

Oct 20, 2008 | 1990 Acura Legend

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