Question about 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

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When i am driving for about 10 mins or less i loose acceleration and it seems like exhaust wasnt getting out of the exhaust pipes....turns out it wasnt the catalitic converter so i need to know what it is i think it may be a fuel pump or some type of valve!? help me out

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  • 361 Answers

Have the ignition control module and coil packs tested they both can be removed and tested at a parts store.both are located where all plug wires meet.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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2002 Ford Laser 1.6. Ran out of fuel, car ran rough and jerks when accelerating. Fuel filter changed, no effect. Exhaust pipe at bottom of engine is glowing red after 10 min test drive, smell of CO2


if you have a missfire the catalytic converter will glow red. if is blocked it will aso glow red. the smell is probably closer to gunpowder.co2 has no odor. try checking fuel pressure if low check the fuel pump

Mar 10, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What is causing these very loud noises coming from under my car?


sounds like iether a loose exhust clamp or the baffels and honey cone inserts of the catalytic converter

May 04, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Drive cycle


First take it to autozone and see if there is no codes..They do it for free...If there is no codes and there is not a p1000 then your good.. You have to do a drive cycle ..Kinda hard to do without a scanner,,but let it set overnight..The fuel level has to be between 3/4 to 1/4 no more no less..Let the vehicle warm up Go out on the road and drive about 40mph real steady ..Try not to accelerate after about 10 mins of steady driving ,,then drive about 50 to 60 for about 5 mins and then stop and idle for about 5 mins..At this time ,,dont turn the car off or you have to start over..Only way to know if the system passed is to have the system scanned..If your trying to get the emmision done,

Feb 19, 2013 | 2005 Ford Freestar

1 Answer

My car has no power when you accelerate and there is a whistling noise coming from the exhaust.


There are a LOT of potential problems to consider in this scenario. However, given your limited description, one thing I would check is for a clogged exhaust system. A fairly common occurrence is for the guts of the catalytic converter to essentially disintegrate over time, come loose, and sometimes to get blown back into a pipe or the muffler where it can clog the exhaust. Sometimes debris from an old muffler can do the same thing.

The newer catalytic converters are much less expensive than they used to be, and sometimes a generic one can be fitted. There are simple tests a mechanic can do with a vacuum gauge on the engine to look for a clogged exhaust, or you can simply putt he vehicle on a lift and do a visual inspection for old, rusty components that appear as though they are falling apart.

One other possibility is that your exhaust has rust through in a section near where the Oxygen sensor screws in, and that sensor is getting false readings as a result and feeding the bad information back to the computer. That could explain the poor acceleration too.

Nov 28, 2010 | Buick LeSabre Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Obd2 system rediness status won't clear so I can run the smog test due to replacing the battery.


takes a long time to run the rediness test since there are 6 different tests to complete...

PROCEDURE 1
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM LEAK MONITOR
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 30°C (75°F) or less (The engine is stopped before the test drive is started).
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 30°C (41 - 113°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Fuel remained in fuel tank: 30 - 50% is recommended.
Time required: 16 minutes or less after started the engine.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position. Well be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position.

PROCEDURE 2
FUEL TRIM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: -10 - 60°C (14 - 140°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 30 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 30 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 3
CATALYTIC CONVERTER MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C (14°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Engine coolant temperature: Not set.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Travel for 300 seconds or more while keeping the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Decelerate until the vehicle speed is within 80 km/h (50 mph) or less.
While traveling at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) for 10 minutes or more, fully close the throttle at least once in 2 minutes and decelerate for 10 seconds or more.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Vehicle speed may go below 56 km/h (35 mph) after the deceleration.
Stopping and braking are permitted. (If stopped or drive at 56 km/h (35 mph) or less for more than 5 minutes the monitoring may be stopped. In this case please restart monitoring from the beginning.)
After completing the above deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 5 times.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 4
HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or more.
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C - 60°C (14 - 140°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Stopping and braking during this operation are permitted. Keep the accelerator opening degree constant for 1 minute or more after each acceleration.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 5
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 60°C (41 - 140°F).
A/C switch: OFF.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While traveling 16 minutes or more at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) with engine speed 2,000 r/min or above, fully close the throttle at decelerate for 5 seconds or more until the engine speed reaches 1,000 r/min or under.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Stopping and braking are permitted (Rapid deceleration and sharp steering are not permitted).
After completing the deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 8 times by fully closing the throttle valve.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 6
OTHER MONITOR (Main Components, Sensors & Switches, Wire Breakage & Short Circuit)
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature:
100°C (212°F) or less (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
30°C (86°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Atmospheric temperature:
5°C (41°F) or more (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
-10°C (14°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 21 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 km/h (35 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 km/h (35 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Return the vehicle to the shop.
After stopping the vehicle, continue idling for 5 minutes, and then turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position. Moreover, the vehicle should be set to the following conditions for idling.
A/C switch: OFF
Lights and all accessories: OFF
Transmission: Neutral

Sep 15, 2010 | 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse

1 Answer

Cold engine does fine. after 30 min or so, I must


check to see if the catiletic converter is clogged.As the converter gets warm it will close up and not let the engine breath.Check how much exhaust is comeing out of the tail pipe when it is cold and then recheck it when this problem happens.See if there is a noticeable differance.You should be able to blow away a few leaves or somthing simaler with the amount of exhaust flowing from the tail pipewhen reving engine in park.

Feb 07, 2010 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I hace a 2003 lincoln ls v8 3.9l. I was driving


Try taking the exhaust pipe loose at the manifold. I had a Chevy Suburban that acted the same way, it turned out to plugged catyletic converter. The converter wasn't letting the exhaust out, the truck had no power, it would stall and then start right up and great for about five seconds the run rough and quit. Once I disconnected the exhaust it started right up and ran great. You could also try taking the O2 sensors out (for test purposes) ahead of the converter that will give the exhaust a place to go

Jan 12, 2010 | 2003 Lincoln LS

1 Answer

My avenger cuts off after being driven for at least 5-30 minutes


a very common problem with these cars is the crankshaft position sensor. also camshaft position sensor. they will make the car do exactly what you described. let me know what you find

Jan 06, 2009 | 1995 Dodge Avenger

1 Answer

Engine not responsive


it sounds like your timing may be off. Have a certified Mechanic check it with his timing light. This might be a time to look at the condition of the timing belt, if it has a belt and not a chain. The belts are made of rubber that's pretty much like a flat serpentine belt, they don't last forever! I was told recently by a respectable fella that you are supposed to change some of them at 50k. Another thing you might look at is the condition of the exhaust pipe, make sure that there is plenty of pressure at the tailpipe. Sometimes exhaust pipes are known to plug up inside, they even collapse inside where you can't see it from the outside. If you think that may be it take the pipe loose as soon as possible behind your engine, then go drive it with it loud and see if the performance gets any better. Good Luck, I hope this helped.

Dec 05, 2008 | 2001 BMW 5 Series

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