Question about Dodge Ram 250

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NEED WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 1984 DODGE 250 CAMPER VAN. CANNOT GET CHARGING SYSTEM TO WORK.

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  • ROGER WHITE Sep 06, 2010

    THANK YOU FOR YOUR PROMPT ASSISTANCE. I HAVE PRINTED OUT THE DIAGRAM AND WILL CHECK IT OUT IN THE MORNING AS THE TEMPS RIGHT NOW IN YUMA IS108 DEGREES AND BEING IN THE DESERT THERE ARE NO TREES HERE SO MY VAN SITS OUT IN THE HOT SUN AND METAL PARTS ARE SO HOT YOU CANNOT TOUCH THEM WITHOUT BURNING YOUR HANDS EVEN UNDER THE HOOD. ROGER WHITE

  • ROGER WHITE Sep 06, 2010

    TY. IN REVIEWING THE WIRING DIAGRAM YOU SENT ME I SEE THAT THERE IS A BALLAST RESISTOR. I SEE WHAT COULD BE THIS UNIT MOUNTED BY THE BATTERY . DO YOU KNOW IF THIS IS THE ONE. IF SO HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT TESTING IT TO SEE IF IT IS GOOD. AND WHAT IS ITS PURPOSE. I HAVE ONLY HAD THIS VAN SINCE JUNE 4TH AND THE CHARGING SYSTEM WORKED FINE THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN IT QUIT WORKING. THE TECHS. AT SEARS ARE THE ONE THAT TESTED THE SYSTEM AND DETERMINED THAT THE ALT. WAS AT FAULT. I KNOW NOW THAT THEY WERE WRONG. THEY DID NOT TEST THE ALT. OUTPUT ONLY THE ENTIRE SYSTEM. THANKS ROGER WHITE

  • ROGER WHITE Sep 06, 2010

    THANKS FOR THE REPLY AND INFO. WILL GIVE IT A TRY IN THE MORNING. ROG

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 3,489 Answers

Shouldn't be too hard. Which engine do you have with which carburettor? I will be happy to send you some diagrams as soon as I know a little more.

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

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  • Dodge Master
  • 17,970 Answers

Check this diagrams...

NEED WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 1984 - 5c5e95b.jpg

Fig. 19: Body wiring diagram-1979-84 starter circuit


d998aeb.jpg

Fig. 20: Body wiring diagram-1979-84 charging circuit


Hope helps.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Sep 06, 2010

    Your welcome; TY for using Fixya, and keep in touch.

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Sep 06, 2010

    This test works under three assumptions:




    1. The battery is known to be good and fully charged.


    2. The alternator belt is in good condition and adjusted to the proper tension.


    3. All connections in the system are clean and tight.



    In order for the current indicator to give a valid reading, the car
    must be equipped with battery cables which are of the same gauge size
    and quality as original equipment battery cables.





    1. Turn off all electrical components on the car. Make sure the doors
      of the car are closed. If the car is equipped with a clock, disconnect
      the clock by removing the lead wire from the rear of the clock.
      Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and connect the
      ground wire on a test light to the disconnected positive battery cable.
      Touch the probe end of the test light to the positive battery post. The
      test light should not light. If the test light does light, there is a
      short or open circuit on the car.



    2. Disconnect the voltage regulator wiring harness connector at the
      voltage regulator. Turn on the ignition key. Connect the wire on a test
      light to a good ground (engine bolt). Touch the probe end of a test
      light to the ignition wire connector into the voltage regulator wiring
      connector. This wire corresponds to the [cf2]I terminal on the
      regulator. If the test light goes on, the charging system warning light
      circuit is complete. If the test light does not come on and the warning
      light on the instrument panel is on, either the resistor wire, which is
      parallel with the warning light, or the wiring to the voltage regulator,
      is defective. If the test light does not come on and the warning light
      is not on, either the bulb is defective or the power supply wire form
      the battery through the ignition switch to the bulb has an open circuit.
      Connect the wiring harness to the regulator.



    3. Examine the fuse link wire in the wiring harness from the starter
      relay to the alternator. If the insulation on the wire is cracked or
      split, the fuse link may be melted. Connect a test light to the fuse
      link by attaching the ground wire on the test light to an engine bolt
      and touching the probe end of the light to the bottom of the fuse link
      wire where it splices into the alternator output wire. If the bulb in
      the test light does not light, the fuse link is melted.



    4. Start the engine and place a current indicator on the positive
      battery cable. Turn off all electrical accessories and make sure the
      doors are closed. If the charging system is working properly, the gauge
      will show a draw of less than 5 amps. If the system is not working
      properly, the gauge will show a draw of more than 5 amps. A charge moves
      the needle toward the battery, a draw moves the needle away from the
      battery. Turn the engine off.




    5. Disconnect the wiring harness from the voltage regulator
      at the regulator at the regulator connector. Connect a male spade
      terminal (solderless connector) to each end of a jumper wire. Insert one
      end of the wire into the wiring harness connector which corresponds to
      the
      A
      terminal on the regulator. Insert the other end of the
      wire into the wiring harness connector which corresponds to the
      F
      terminal on the regulator. Position the connector with the
      jumper wire installed so that it cannot contact any metal surface under
      the hood. Position a current indicator gauge on the positive battery
      cable. Have an assistant start the engine. Observe the reading on the
      current indicator. Have your assistant slowly raise the speed of the
      engine to about 2,000 rpm or until the current indicator needle stops
      moving, whichever comes first. Do not run the engine for more than a
      short period of time in this condition. If the wiring harness connector
      or jumper wire becomes excessively hot during this test, turn off the
      engine and check for a grounded wire in the regulator wiring harness. If
      the current indicator shows a charge of about three amps less than the
      output of the alternator, the alternator is working properly. If the
      previous tests showed a draw, the voltage regulator is defective. If the
      gauge does not show the proper charging rate, the alternator is
      defective.

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Sep 06, 2010

    Also, I suggest check the Voltage Regulator (REMOVAL & INSTALLATION)...




    1. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery negative terminal.


    2. Disconnect the alternator output (BAT) and field (FLD) leads, then disconnect the alternator ground wire.


    3. Remove the alternator mounting bracket bolts and remove the alternator.


    4. Installation is the reverse of the above. Adjust the alternator
      drive belt tension. Check the alternator and regulator circuits and
      perform any necessary adjustment.




    1970-88 with an Electronic Regulator
    (see Figure 1)






    http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/...">



    Fig. 1: Electronic voltage regulator used on 1970-88 vehicles





    1. Release the spring clips and pull off the regulator wiring plug.


    2. Unbolt and remove the regulator.


    3. Installation is he reverse of removal. Be sure that the spring clips engage the wiring plug.


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