Question about 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hydraulic clutch problems
i have a ktm 125 wich all ktms have hydraulic cluthcs and i have the same problem as all these fellas even when im riding it just sucks right down all the fluid reply to me on X-KTMrida-X@hotmail.com ok thanks fellas
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
SOURCE: 1998 chevy C-1500 brake problems
Try a clean and adjust on the rear shoes, because sometimes when they aren't properly adjusted they won't seem to work properly. Also there is a common "squishy" petal feeling after brake work on most all larger GM's around that year, wich I have run into several times. Try test driving it, and put a couple miles on it, That usualy helps.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
Bulletin No.: 01-07-31-002B PLEASE RATE ME as this is ALL info you need More? Email me at rejakwilson @aol.com
Date: November 01, 2006
Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System
2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2006-2007 HUMMER H3
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.
Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
Remove the reservoir cap.
Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.
Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
Add additional fluid if needed.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.
NOTE: The principal parts of the clutch system are the driving members, the driven member, and the hydraulic system. The clutch housing is part of the manual transaxle assembly.
The driving members consist of two flat surfaces machined to a smooth finish. One of these is the rear face of the engine flywheel, and the other is the front face of the clutch cover assembly.
The driven member is the clutch disc. The clutch disc is splined to the input shaft. The clutch disc slides on the splines to provide clutch disengagement and engagement.
The clutch disc is held in contact between the flywheel and the clutch cover assembly by the pressure of a diaphragm spring in the clutch cover assembly.
The clutch release system consists of a clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir, tubing and an clutch actuator cylinder assembly. The clutch master cylinder is mounted to the front of the dash and is controlled by a pushrod connected to the clutch pedal. The clutch actuator cylinder assembly is mounted inside the clutch housing. Tubing connects the clutch master cylinder to the clutch actuator cylinder assembly.
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
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