Question about 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Open Question

How to replace the motor mount on a cutlass supreme 1993

Posted by on

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 cutlass supreme transmission

It physically will fit and bolt up,but there are many different ratio,and drive and driven sprocket tooth counts,different final drive ratios,all monitored by the computer with electronic speed sensors.If the trans from the 95 has a different ratio than the 93,the computer will set gear ratio error codes,and possibly put the trans in a failsafe mode,stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear.On the transmission case,down by where the passenger side axle would go in,is a thin metallic tag,maybe 2"x 3",and it has bar codes,and also a series of numbers and letters.The numbers and letters,large cap,are the final drive gear ratio code.They should match on the two transmissions in question.

Posted on Jul 31, 2008

Ad
bbtoast
  • 319 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 cutlass supreme run hot

A common problem is that the electric fan will not operate. You need to determine if the fan is coming on when the vehicle gets warm.

When you replaced the coolant, were you sure that you got all of the air out of the cooling system? If you have any air in the system, it will cause your system to run hot!

Regards

Brian

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: repalce front driver power window motor - 1993 cutlass ciera

Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: how hard is it to replace a intake gasket on a 1994 olds cutlass supreme.3.1 6 cyclinder

It is not an extremely difficult job. time consuming consuming... I've done a 3.4 intake manifold job, which in my opinion (plenty will disagree) is a little easier than a 3.1 manifold. there are just more steps involved with the 3.1 intake.(I haven't had to change the intake gasket on my 3.1 (yet)) If you haven't already, invest in a haynes or chilton manual, whip out your sockets and your gasket remover, and prepare to do battle...
oh, as far as how to tell before you break down the engine... are you having any drive ability problems? Surging idle, stalling... try this, take propane torch (DONT LIGHT IT) but open the valve and let the spray the propane around your intake manifold with the engine running. If the idle drops or the car stalls, there is your intake leak. That trick also works with intake cleaner too.

you may have to remove your push rods to put your new gasket on. Just loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot your rocker arms out of the way. If you do remove your push rods, push them into some holes in a cardboard box so that you can replace them EXACTLY in the same position that you got them from. To remove old traces of gasket, you may have to get some spray on gasket remover, let it sit 5 min. then get at it with your scraper. (be careful, remember our engines are aluminum, you don't want to scrape too hard and scar the mating surface).  
After you get all the old gasket off, clean the mating surface with intake cleaner or lacquer thinner. your gasket kit may have come with end seals. if it did not, remember to run a line of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (before you install the intake gasket.)

When you re-install your lower manifold, coat your bolts with pipe thread sealant. when you install the lower manifold, tighten the vertical bolts first, then the angle bolts- it will keep the manifold from wiggling around on the gasket.

After you get everything back together and all snug, i would buy some GM top engine cleaner (liquid)(dealer only( part# 1050002) or some sea foam from your local parts retailer. I know this is to clean the carbon and sludge from your intake and your cylinders, but guess where the remainder of the solution ends up? Yep, in your oil. That should clean up any residue you had from the milkshake effect.

To use the GM engine cleaner, just disconnect your favorite vacuum hose leading to the intake (some people just use their brake booster hose) and put it down in the bottle of liquid while the car is running. (don't let the vacuum **** the liquid too fast, you don't want to risk problems. you may have to keep your hand on the throttle to keep it running. when the can is empty, let your car stall or just cut it off. 

Let your car sit about 2 hours, to give the cleaner time to really work. Start your car, let it run for about 20 mins (there will be PLENTY of white smoke, your car is burning off the cleaner and the carbon).

Then change your oil. good luck and hope this helps.

Ok, you're going to need to buy, borrow, or rent a torque wrench. For 3.1 engines 1995 and earlier, rocker arm nuts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.

The wire brush probably did less damage than I do on a regular basis with a gasket scraper :D so you should be okay. If you've already drained your oil, (which I suspect you have) then I would just use the wal-mart brand while you do the GM engine cleaner thing. 
  Don't add the cleaner to your oil, just let a vacuum hose, **** it into the intake. Plenty will get in your oil. Getting into your oil and cleaning up the gook is just a fringe benefit. What the cleaner actually does is it cleans up your entire intake path (manifold, injectors, & valves)... I think you'll be happy with the throtle crispness, once you're done with the engine cleaner. 
Oh and for your coolant system, just get some Prestone radiator flush, and follow what the bottle says. If your system is really gooped up, Prestone also has a Super flush for a little extra :2cents:


Posted on May 02, 2009

tse22
  • 103 Answers

SOURCE: where is the fuse box in a 1993 cutlass supreme

Its in the glovebox, I know its wierd, open the box, pull up the trapdoor on the bottom and pull up to remove the whole box that it hidden in there, you should be able to see the fusebox after that.

Posted on May 12, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I am changing the rear struts on a 1993 Cutlass Supreme SL. The old struts came out fine, but the rubber dampner is now expanded and making it almost impossible to line up the two bottom strut bolt


You should be replacing the rubber bits as well instead of using the old bits. IT the mount is in rubber that is pressed into the hole at the bottom of the shocky try using liquid detergent to make the rubber slippery.

Mar 15, 2014 | 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

How do you change the spark plugs on a 1993 oldsmobile cutlass supreme


Your Cutlass is either the 3.1 V6 or the 3400 Dual Overhead 24 valve V6...each motor is clearly marked on top of the engine plenum. If you have not changed the plugs yet...I recomend you do that at the same time...you can purchase inexpensive replacement wires with a limited lifetime warranty...be sure to compare. No special tools needed to switch out the plug wires...I highly recomend using plug wire boot lube grease to assure good clean water proof contact...also helps ease od service later as needed. The lube is only a couple of bucks...Be sure to ask the parts person the ignition firing order...this will help to confirm proper installation...Remove only one wire at a time...this insures you maintain the current firing order...remove and replace only ONE wire at a time...disconnect from the plug, then trace to the coil pack, and disconnect...replace with similar length wire using lube grease on both end connections...Plug wires and plugs should be replaced on your Cutlass OBD I motor by 100,000 miles...they can wear out and leak or misfire prior to that...Your motor is also sensitive to a clean Idle Air Control valve...about $35. or try to clean the old one and mounting hole with injector spray cleaner and wipe out...Also check for any vacumn leaks while changing wires...the old rubber lines and connections crack and leak with age...The Cutlass is usally a reliable long term car...Good luck with yours. Hope this helps.

Aug 06, 2012 | Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the 90 Cutlass Supreme crankshaft sensor located


Wasn't sure which engine you had so here's a picture for both the 4 and 6 cylinder. I hope this helps.

12_19_2011_11_57_30_pm.jpg

12_19_2011_11_57_51_pm.jpg

Dec 19, 2011 | 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

WHAT TYPE OF MOTOR OIL DO I USE AND HOW MANY QUARTS FOR 1993 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME 3.4L


1993 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 3.4L 6-cyl Engine Code [X] DOHC

5W30 for all temperatures, 10W30 for above 0*F.

Capacity is 5 qts. without filter change. Add extra oil when replacing filter.
I suggest adding in increments of 1/4 qt. (4oz.)at a time until "full" is indicated on the dipstick.

Sep 30, 2010 | 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

Blower motor access for replacement


Should be on the firewall under the hood or under the glove compartment. Depending on which engine you have in that car.

Jun 03, 2009 | 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

Power windows on a 1993 cutlass supreme won't go up.


Sounds like the window motor is bad. It is pulling to many amps and poping the circuit breaker in the motor. When the breaker cools, it starts again.

Mar 17, 2009 | 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Not finding what you are looking for?
1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Logo

Related Topics:

222 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Oldsmobile Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76673 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22219 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8531 Answers

Are you an Oldsmobile Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...