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Having trouble removing the front wheel. removed lug nuts, but don't know if or how to remove spindle nut

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Once the lug nuts are off the wheel should come off, if not bang on the tire with a heavy hammer it is stuck on the hub (RUST).

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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How to replace broken lug stud on front wheel

You can either remove the bearing, or what I do is. On the front/top of the spindle, I grind away a little of the spindle. Just enough to get the lug out. You see where to grind. You can knock the lug out with a hammer, but can't get it out of the way without grinding. Reinsert the new lug. I use a bigger nut to go over the lug, then use a lug nut to seat it into place.

Aug 31, 2014 | 2002 Buick Century

1 Answer

Front wheel bearing instalation

Engage the emergency brake. Place the socket end of the tire wrench over the lug nuts and turn 45 degrees to break the nuts loose. Do not unseat the wheel from the wheel hub.
  • 2Jack the Sentra into the air using the factory front jack point. This is located behind the radiator.
  • Finish loosening the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
  • 4Unbolt the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts and lift the caliper off the brake rotor.
  • 5Secure the brake caliper to the coil springs above the brake system with zip ties.
  • 6Slide the brake rotor off the hub assembly.
  • 7Remove the bearing cap on your Sentra. To do this, you need to use channel locks. Grab the bearing cap with the end of the channel locks. Then, twist the channel locks back and forth. You will eventually be able to loosen the bearing cap so that you can pull it off.
  • 8Grab the end of the cotter pin on the spindle nut with pliers and pull it out of the nut. You may need to pull fairly hard, but the pin will come out.
  • 9Turn the spindle nut counterclockwise to remove the spindle nut.
  • 10Tap the wheel bearing out of place with a rubber mallet or a hammer.
  • 11Tap the bearing races out of the hub with a hammer and punch tool. You need to do this for both sides of the hub.
  • 12Clean the inside of the hub, the spindle, as well as the spindle nut brake parts cleaner and wipe them dry with a clean rag.
  • 13Install the new wheel bearing. Tap the new bearing into the hub using a rubber mallet. Make sure you are using a rubber mallet so that you do not damage the new bearing.
  • 14Reassemble the hub assembly, brake assembly, and put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts so that the wheel sits flush against the wheel hub. Installation is the reverse of removal.
  • 15Lower the Sentra to the ground and set the dial on a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft. Tighten the lug nuts clockwise until the wrench clicks. This will indicate that the proper torque value has been reached.
  • Jun 29, 2012 | 1997 Nissan Sentra

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    How to change a rear wheel bearing on a 2004 ford taurus???

    How to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly on a 2nd generation Taurus

    The following procedure is for a Ford Taurus (VIN S), with rear drum brakes and ABS.

    1. Loosen wheel lug nuts, raise rear of vehicle, and support securely on jack stands. Block front wheels and remove rear wheels.

    2. Remove brake drum (parking brake must be off).

    3. Remove and clean ABS Sensor (Torx E8) with a spritzled rag.

    4. Remove grease cap from hub.

    5. Remove and discard hub retaining nut (36 mm). This is a compound nut, comprised of several nuts inside a metal cage. Use a 36 mm axle nut socket (e.g., OEM 25206). Many auto parts stores will lend you this socket. A 1/2-inch drive air impact wrench or breaker bar is necessary to remove the nut.

    6. Remove wheel bearing/hub assembly from spindle. It easily comes off by hand.

    7. Install new Timken Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly, for Drum Brakes and ABS (Part No. 512162). Tighten new axle spindle nut (Dorman 05114) 221 lb.-ft., replace grease cap, and button everything up.

    Jun 22, 2012 | 2004 Ford Taurus

    1 Answer

    2002 Avalon spindle nut removal

    To replace the spindle lock nut:
    • Raise the vehicle and support it on jackstands.
    • Remove the wheel and the wheel cover.
    • Remove the spindle dust cap.
    • Pull the cotter pin.
    • Unscrew the spindle lock nut. If the nut is a multiple-piece type, make sure you remove all of the pieces.
    • Reverse these procedures to complete the installation.
    • Torque or adjust the nut according to the manufacturer's specifications

    May 09, 2012 | 2002 Toyota Avalon

    1 Answer

    Removing the front brake rotor spindle nut

    I think when you remove the lug nuts, wheel and
    caliper the rotor should pull right off. If its rusted
    in place tap it lightly all around. The spindle nut
    you speak of might be the hub nut which secures
    the drive axle.

    Feb 12, 2011 | 1998 Honda Accord

    1 Answer

    I want to remove the front brake rotor from my 2000 gmc 4x4 3500. It looks like I have to remove the outer hub used to attach the wheels and also remove the spindle nut. After the 8 nuts and the spindle...

    U use an air hammer with a pointy tool in it. Then u drive the lug studs out. The hub and rotor mate using the knurled area of the lug studs.

    Feb 08, 2011 | 2000 GMC Sierra

    1 Answer

    Need exploded view of 1995 dodge 2500 left front u-joint removal process. How does main bearing race come off?

    FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
    1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
    2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

    3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
    4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

    5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
    6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
    7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
    8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
    9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
    10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
    11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
    12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
    14. Assemble the hub parts.
    15. Install the caliper.
    16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
    Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
    1. Remove the wheel cover.
    2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

    3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
    4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

    5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
    6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
    7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
    8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
    9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
    10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
    11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
    12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
    13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
    14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
    15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

    16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
    17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
    prev.gif next.gif

    Nov 05, 2010 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

    1 Answer

    Installation of the upper and lower ball joints on a 1999 ford ranger ???

    Ford Ranger Ball Joints 1993 through 1997Ford Rangers from '93 to '97 2WD have an "I-beam" front suspension as opposed to the upper and lower control arms that most vehicles have. The '93 to '97 4WD Rangers don't have the "I-beams", they have axles. After 1997 Ford got rid to the twin "I-beam" suspension in the Rangers and started using upper and lower control arms.
    The ball joints are pressed into the spindle, and the spindle must be removed to replace the ball joints. The ball joints can't be replaced with the spindle in the vehicle. The wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor and tie rod are all attached to the spindle, and all four items must be removed to get the spindle off. Up until the point that the ball joints get removed from the spindle, it's not that hard a job. But getting the ball joints out of the spindle can be difficult, if not impossible unless you know how to do it. But that gets explained in these instructions.

    You will need metric sockets, and a breaker bar for this job. Channel lock pliers, diagonal cutting pliers and needle nose pliers are a must, along with a small, flat chisel, a hammer, and a 3 or 5 pound hammer. Buy some anti-seize compound and thread locker along with your new ball joints. I also had to use a 27mm impact socket and a propane torch with mapp gas.
    I'd have hand cleaner, paper towels, and a trash bag right with you so you can clean your hands right at the vehicle.
    1. Loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground before you jack the truck up. Just loosen the lug nuts, don't take the lug nuts off before jacking or supporting the truck.
    2. Set the emergency brake, and/or chock the wheels. Jack the truck up. Put a jack stand under the frame.
    3. Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel. I use the wheel to sit on while doing this job.


    1. Remove the brake caliper by removing the two, 13mm bolts on the back side. After that, I pry the caliper up, from the bottom, first on one side then the other to get it unstuck. Then I set the brake caliper over the torsion or stabilizer bar so it's not hanging from the brake hose.
    2. Remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the frame that the caliper bolts to. Note: These bolts have thread locker on them and you should replace the bolts with thread locker. Since this part holds the caliper on, you don't want the bolts coming loose. Take the brake pads out of the bracket. They will probably just fall out later if you don't take them out now.

    1. Now the rotor can be removed by taking off the dust cap and removing the cotterpin, nut, and washer. I use a metal chisel with a hammer to separate the dust cap around the edge. Work little by little around the edge to pop off the cap.
    2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the spindle and take the spindle nut off. You probably don't need a socket to remove this nut. The nut is for the tension on the wheel bearings, and even though your wheel bearings should be tightened quite snug, the nut should not be tightened real hard.
    3. Remove the washer, and pull the caliper forward. The outer wheel bearing should slide out a little bit. Take it out. Have plenty of paper towels handy because you will get covered with grease.
    4. Pull the rotor off and clean the grease off the spindle. You'll need to get the grease off the spindle because you will be handling the spindle to get the ball joints out.

    Nov 16, 2009 | 1999 Ford Ranger SuperCab

    1 Answer

    Front brake rotor on 1992 Ford Ranger 4wd with auto lock in

    With Automatic Locking Hubs
    1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
    2. Remove the wheel lugnuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
    3. Remove the retainer washers from the lugnut studs. Remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
    4. Remove the snap ring from the end of the spindle shaft.
    5. Remove the axle shaft spacer
    6. Being careful not to damage the plastic moving cam or thrust spacers, pull cam assembly off the wheel bearing adjusting nut and remove the two plastic thrust spacers from the adjusting nut. CAUTION: Do not pry on the plastic cam or thrust spacers during removal. Prying may damage the cam or spacers.
    7. Using a magnet, remove the locking key. NOTE: If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key, before the key can be removed. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the spindle threads, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
    8. Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the spindle using a 2-3/8 inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B or equivalent.
    9. While rotating the hub and rotor assembly, tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 47 Nm (35 ft lb) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor and back off the nut one-quarter turn (90 degrees).
    10. Retighten the adjusting nut to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb) using a torque wrench.
    11. Align the closest lug in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of the spindle keyway slot. Advance the nut to the next lug if required. Install the separate locking key in the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut. WARNING: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the spindle nut adjustment lug with the center of the spindle keyway slot to prevent damage to the separate locking key. The wheel and tire assembly may come off while the vehicle is in motion if the key is damaged.
    12. Install the two thrust spacers and push or press the cam assembly onto the locknut by lining up the key in the fixed cam with the spindle keyway. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the fixed cam key with the spindle keyway to prevent damage to the fixed cam.
    13. Install the axle shaft spacer.
    14. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle shaft.
    15. Install the automatic locking hub assembly over the spindle by lining up the three hub assembly legs with three pockets in cam assembly. Install the retainer washers.
    16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lugnuts to 135 Nm (100 ft lb).
    17. Make sure the final end play of the wheel on the spindle is 0.00-0.08 mm (0.000-0.003 inch). the maximum torque to rotate the hub is 2.8 Nm (25 in lb).

    Jul 27, 2009 | 1992 Ford Ranger

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