Question about 1999 Chevrolet Suburban

4 Answers

Rear power windows do not work - 1999 Chevrolet Suburban

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  • rtdengr Aug 30, 2010

    I can hear a faint relay click when I try to operate either back window from the front console. My assumption is that it is a single problem common to both back windows. The fuse is OK since the front windows work. I need a wiring diagram and location of harness plugs so that I can trace out the window power voltage to the relays.

  • rtdengr Aug 31, 2010

    How about that: 2 dead window motors. Can you give me help on replacing the motors? It looks like there is a rivet to drill out but there must be more holding it in than that.

  • rtdengr Sep 01, 2010

    Joey,



    I will accept your suggestion because it worked but could you also give me some ideas on how to get the window motor out?

  • rtdengr Sep 03, 2010

    I have the motors on the way from NAPA. I will try your short way after the weekend.

  • rtdengr Sep 08, 2010

    OK, I'm back from the weekend and drilled the holes you specified and drilled off the rivet heads. Two of the three rivets are trapped by the regulator mechanism. I can't get the motor out and can't drill out the rivet since it just spins. Even if I could drill the rivet out, how would I get the new bolt in?



    Bob

  • rtdengr Sep 12, 2010

    Joey,



    Did you get my last email? With this email system I never know. I drilled the holes and drilled the heads off the rivets but the regulator mechanism traps the head of the rivet and I can't get the motor off what is left of the rivet. Now what do I do?

  • rtdengr Oct 04, 2010

    I got it fixed but had to take out the regulator mechanism anyway because it had captured the heads of two of the rivets. How do I accept your solution? There is no "accept" box on this email.

    Bob

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4 Answers

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  • Master
  • 2,272 Answers

First remove all the screws that you can see, then look for any small plugs that may be covering any screw on the door pad.
Now check again, just to make sure you didn’t miss any screws.
Now a trim removal tool would be nice to have but not absolutely necessary. Any parts store will have one for around 5 bucks and it will make the process easier.
If not a heavy putty knife, or even a butter knife will work. Slide the tool in between the bottom of the door pad and the door.
Pry the tool out against the doorpad and the door so that the doorpad pops out a little then go on to the next one, there a quite a few, 4 or 5 on the bottom and another 4 or 5 on each side.
Now the door pad should be loose all the way around except on the top, so you should be able to pull it away from the door itself.
Now this would be easier if the window was down, removing the top of the pad from the top of the door, but it can be done with the window up, and the motor can be removed with the pad attached, but it is much easier with the pad off.
The top of the doorpad is attached at the top with 2 clips that need to be pushed in with a small screwdriver, but a push against the top of the pad upwards should pop them off and the pad.
Now there is a peace of paper or plastic on the side of the door that is attached to door with a sticky string type material. Pulling that away from the door to gain access to the door, being careful not to rip it. But don’t worry if you do you can just use tape to fix it later.
Now you can see the inside of the door and how the motor is attached to it. They used to use large rivets to hold the motors on.If it is attached with rivets you will need to drill them out to get the motor out.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

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  • Master
  • 1,016 Answers

Hi,

You need to check that you got power coming from the main window control switch, and also check that the rear window lock switch is ok, if this is not working properly then it won't supply power to the rear switch's.

Let me know if you need more information.

Thanks

Jason

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

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  • Master
  • 432 Answers

Good Evening. I have a couple simple tests for you to try, mainly to rule out the switch. Being both rear windows it can be the window motors, just did one a couple weeks ago and it was 3 window motors. If you remove the door panel and then unplug the connector going to your window motor get a cheap digital volt meter and connect each side to a wire at this point does not matter which wire you connect it to. Hook up your switch and turn the ignition on, now with your volt meter connected press the switch up and see if you notice 10-12volts and then press down and see if it shows the same thing but negative. At that point if it does register both ways you can rule out the switch and just a motor. Try the same thing on the other door as well, if no voltage suspect a fuse, the switch or a broken wire in the door jamb, however with the front two working i would doubt the broken wire theory. I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions please feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Joey

Posted on Aug 31, 2010

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  • cjkelly025 Sep 03, 2010

    Yes I apologize a little busy around the shop, there are a few different ways to remove those window motors the long way, and the more direct approach. The long way you drill out the big rivets that hold the whole assembly and unfasten your window from the regulator and pull it all out on.e big all at once. Either way you go about this the new window motors from autozone had 2 sets of bolts in them the big ones to hold the regulator and the little ones you will have to drill out to replace the motor. The short way will take a flashlight and a roughly 3/8 drill bit, and being able to judge spacial distance. If you look and reach into the door you will feel the 3 smaller rivets holding the window motor onto the regulator, they are all about 1/8" or so with about a 1/4" head. Now that you have found the location of the small rivets try and visualize those locations onto the inside of the door (not inside inside but inside the sheet metal where the door panel covers) and take that 3/8" bit and drill 3 holes. Once you have those holes drilled over the smaller rivets carry on through with it and drill the heads off the small rivets. The motor will come off and you can pull it out and put the new one in. Line it up in the same position the old one was and then put the new screws and nuts through it. I like the short way because there is no window removal or regulator removal and makes the process so much quicker. Any more questions please let me know, and once again I apologize for the delay.
    Thanks,
    Joey

  • cjkelly025 Oct 03, 2010

    The rivets may spin, and if you change up your angle and have a good bit it will eat the rest of the material out and you can pop off that motor. Basically what happens is when the motor is free from the first two rivets the rest of the assembly is still sitting in there so there is no arm to worry about when the window is up. However once you get the motor free be sure to keep the glass up. I hadn't heard anything from you since our last set of msgs and wondered how it went since you did not accept, and wanted to see if you got everything done ok. Let me know if there is anything else I can do.
    Thanks,
    Joey

  • cjkelly025 Oct 05, 2010

    Honestly I have no clue how that works, tho I am glad to hear you have your windows working again. Ever figure it out let me know, as well as if you run into anything else. Have a good one.
    Thanks,
    Joey

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 17,129 Answers

It is possible that there is power break into the rear units.Open the panel board and check for the voltage to the unit. if there is no power to the unit check if there is break at the hinges or a failure of the fuse.
If the window work from the master control then the system is fine but if there is no action then the control of the motor drive is faulty.
Check the switch and the output transistor for fault. If not check it the motor is working. If motor works out of circuit then it can also be high load in the mechanism.
remove and reset for glass to travel freely in the frame

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • Donald DCruz
    Donald DCruz Aug 31, 2010

    If you look into the cicuit the main positive line can be identified easily because the electronic circuit will have the drive to switch on from the drive.

    So if power is not present trace from here, check if the same line goes to the other side window.

  • Donald DCruz
    Donald DCruz Sep 01, 2010

    Cant be the two motors fail at the same time But not to speculate and replace without a perfect confirmation, I would still advice to take patient time to isolate the voltage and check for the circuit triggers.

  • Donald DCruz
    Donald DCruz Sep 01, 2010

    Normally when the motor fails the unit is replaced as a spare motor is not seperately replace but the whole unit. So check this out.

    As observed by you the motors are fixed permanetly with the rivet fixtures and soldered to board. hence take care to remove but only if the motor needs a cleaning.

    please dont forget to rate me.

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