Question about 1988 Chevrolet Beretta

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1988 Chevy Berretta 2.8 engine, manual transmission; stauls while driving (street and/or highway) even during idle. It runs fine and for no aparent reason engine shuts off. The check engine light turns on when engine shuts off. I have to wait until the check engine light blinks and once it blinks the engine will start. I have changed the spark control module, throttle position sensor, plugs and wires, Idle control valve, relays, oxygen sensor, thermostat, temp sensor, scanned with OBD1 Code reader (Scanner did not find any codes, engine never stauled, check engine light did not turn on, vehicle was driven for 45 minutes prior to being scanned), vacuum leaks found and repaired, vapor canister inspected and in good condition, inspected ECM (computer) found one pin that was bent and not aligned correctly to the connector/plug and repaired by straigtening and realigning, cadilytic converted tested and passed, new battery, new fuel injector seals and intake seals, new fuel pump and fuel filter. Other misc repairs are power steering pump and brake booster. Why does it just shut off?

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  • delongjr Aug 28, 2010

    I have multi port fuel injection, and the fuel is getting to the injectors, that was tested. The spark control module has three coils mounted on it. One coil for every 2 cylinders. There is no distributor, only the Spark Control Module and the ECM. Not sur what a " hall effect switch is? MAP sensor good, MAF sensor good.

  • delongjr Aug 28, 2010

    I have multi port fuel injection, and the fuel is getting to the injectors, that was tested. The spark control module has three coils mounted on it. One coil for every 2 cylinders. There is no distributor, only the Spark Control Module and the ECM. Not sur what a " hall effect switch is? MAP sensor good, MAF sensor good.

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These were notorious back in 88 for stalling out. Replace the ECM

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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  • Chevrolet Master
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I have a suggestion that may help...
When it stalls is when you need to spring into action...
You need to see what is missing, spark or fuel.
When it stalls, open the hood and hook up a spark tester, and crank it over to see if you have spark.
Once you know this, and if it does have spark, then once again, when it stalls, (You have a throttle body, correct?) while cranking it to start, see if you have fuel spray from the injector.
This method will eliminate 1/2 of the guess work, and get you onto the right track.
Now, from my experience, I seem to think you have a hall effect switch and a small coil in the distributor, near the ignition module, as these can fail,as well as a coil, or even the ECM. So try to determine wha is lost when it stalls...Good Luck.

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

  • Douglas Hansen
    Douglas Hansen Aug 30, 2010

    So you tested the injectors by using a noid light, ? correct? It still has a pulse when it will not run?

    What about the spark, does that go away when it stalls?

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