What is the time belt ? why is it important to monitor it especially in used cars?

Not sure what your question is, but timing belts / chains are very important to replace when the time comes. Older cars used primarily chains - strong, long life, but much noisier. Most all cars these days use belts - not as strong, decent life span, nice n quiet. Most importantly, you need to find out if your Suzuki has an "interference" or "non-interference" engine. In either case, the changing interval is not affected, but if the belt breaks on an interference engine then your piston is going to break into the valves and you are in for a new engine or rebuilding it. If non-interference, and the belt breaks, no real engine damage, but your car will just suddenly stall and leave you stranded. General rule of thumb is to replace timing belts around 50,000 - 70,000 mile mark. After this point, they may last double the miles, but every drive is an unreliable one. This can be somewhat expensive as this belt is on the inside, NOT the belts you see twirling around on the outside. Depending upon the car, it can cost anywhere from $600 - ?? Not cheap, but niether is being stranded on a roadside in the middle of the night and calling a cab for 100 bucks. Hope this helps.

Hi there:

This trouble code is described in the repair manual as a problem with the VVT (variable valve timing) bank 1, this is the cylinder head closest to the firewall. There is a deviation between the crank position sensor and the vvt sensor on the camshaft, I would suggest rechecking the belt timing again, especially on the bank 1 side, make sure that all the electrical connectors are plugged in for the cam and crank sensors.





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if it's a dual overhead cam then each head has two cams and two pully's, a single overhead cam engine has one cam and one pulley on each head. if the belt has more than 60,000 miles on it you should replace it. you need to find out if the engine is an interference engine or not to determine the level of damage caused if the belt has jumped or slipped. your overhead cam timing marks are usually on the cam faces and the backing plate behind the cam or sometimes there's two marks on the cam that you align with the surface of the head behind them. the first thing you need is a diagram of the belt routing and mark positions because timing marks are very important especially on an interference engine. starting or cranking an interference engine with the timing marks misaligned can bend all your valves or even punch holes in your pistons! so proper alignment is crucial, good luck.

One way to do it, is to make a mark on the tooth wheels the timing belts is running over, and a correspondig mark on somewhere on the engine.
Another way is to turn the tooth wheels around, until the factory made position marks on the tooth wheels correspond with the factory made position marks on the engine (normally upper part).
What is important is that the tooth wheels are in exactly same postion when you put on the new timing belt, as when you removed the old timing belt.
It's also recommended to replace the unit used for tightening the timing belt at the same time.
This is only a short description of the most important things. For a more detailed describtion, one can get a repair manual from Haynes: http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/208

It has a timing belt. Big job! especially if it is V6.

Timing belt at 100000km or 60000miles , Diff oil in a car about the same, in a 4WD , more often especially if using in water or very dusty conditions.
If uncertain, change them sooner, Belts and oil are much cheaper than bearings and rebuilt engines!
Hope this helps Marshall

200,000-300,000 miles if you keep up with oil changes and belt changes especially the timing belt this is usually the most important belt if it brakes you'll need a new engine. Change this belt around 80-100,000 miles.

There is no problem with checking timing due to component wear over time. It is important on alot of engines to maintain a good timing belt due to the fact that many engines have valve interferance. Which means that if the engine were running and belt were to fall off the pistons would make contact with the valves causing damage to your engine. Hope this helps.....

Remove the upper fanshroud, it unclips then pull upwards to remove. Remove the fan from the waterpump with a fan wrench. Also becareful not to puncture the radiator. Then remove A/C compressor pulley(some cars have the ACE pump mounted next to A/C compressor which uses the same cover) cover to completely expose the belt routing. Be careful removing the 10mm bolts. They bolt through two pedastals and often fall. So you have to hold the bolt,cover, and pedastals. There's two bolts holding the cover. This next step is important especially if your car is missng the belt diagram. Draw the belt routing on a piece of paper. Then remove beltension at the tensioner. Install belt around all the pulleys in the diagram except the alternator. Use the same step to install belt on alternator pulley which is always the last pulley to fit belt onto. Then reverse procedure and tighten all bolts.

Try this procedure.



To replace a worn belt, locate the idler or generator pulley.




Loosen the hold-down fastener for the idler or generator pulley.




Pry the idler or generator pulley inward to release the belt tension and remove the belt.




Match the old belt up for size with the new replacement belt.




Observe the belt routing diagram in the engine compartment.




Install the new belt over each of the drive pulleys. Often the manufacturer recommends a sequence for feeding the belt around the pulleys.



Art courtesy of Delmar - Thomson Learning.
Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt.
Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt.




Install the belt squarely in the grooves of each pulley.




Before adjusting belt tension, check for proper pulley alignment. This is especially critical with serpentine belts. Measure the belt deflection in its longest span. If a belt tension gauge is available, use it and compare the tension to specifications.
If a belt is too tight, wear to bearings for the water pump, alternator, and engine crankshaft can result.
Some late-model Chrysler engines require a torque reading to be taken when tension is applied to the generator drive belt. This is especially important on the longer, multiribbed V-belts.




Pry the idler or generator pulley to adjust the belt to specifications.




Tighten the idler or generator pulley fastener.




Start the engine and check the belt for proper operation.

Any more questions please ask. Good luck.