Question about 2004 Jeep Wrangler

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2004 WRANGLER OVER HEATING, CHANGED RADIATOR, T-STAT, FLUID IS NOT CIRCULATING THROUGHOUT ENGINE

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Hi, if you have changed the above and you know they are working then did you do the following.

when you filled the coolant back up did you undo any bleed screws in the top hoses running around the top of the engine( if you have got none then its a self bleed system) you then need to undo these all the way if you have them, then just trickle the coolant in to prevent build up of air lock as this will cause over heating.

then when you have reached the coolant level you need to put the bleed screws back if you have them if not dont worry its self bleed system, once the level is reached you need to start the engine and leave the coolant filler cap off then wait until the temp is up to normal running temp then refit the coolant cap.

if after doing the above check you have got heat inside the jeep turn the heater on to full heat and turn it on if it comes out hot then this indicates the coolant is pumping around the engine properly, if its cold then you have some problems.

if its cold then this could point towards faulty thermostat, faulty water pump or worse case blown head gasket, if you have heat and it still over heats then you need to check if the rad fan is coming on when it gets hot if its electronic, miss this if its running all the time.

if its still over heating and the fan is working as it should be then you can only have 2 problems left, the first would be the water pump but if you have heat in the jeep from the heater then this points towards the pump working, so all thats left is the head gasket this could have failed and is a big cause of over heating problems.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

plz rate this solution as i have a whole page of unrated posts, thanks

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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You may have the serpentine belt routed wrong and spinning the pump in the wrong direction its a very common problem. Check your belt routing.

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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2000 lincoln ls overheats. Changed t stat and waterpump. Boiling in driverside reservoir. Passenger reservoir look like fluids mixed. Car have heat


With engine cold remove radiator cap. Start engine and look for bubbles in cooling fluid. Bubbles mean blown head gasket.

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Which way does the waterpump turn on a 1985 Ford LTD 302?


The feature than can determine the way the pump turns would be whether they were driven by the smooth side of a serpentine belt on the one had, vs. the grooved side of a serpentine belt or a V belt on the other hand.

It would really be a good idea to get a numeric reading on the engine temperature...

Of course, the number one issue is the thermostat. If it is too high of a range, or is not opening properly, the 4-core radiator will never be called on.

Next is the possibility that steam/vapor is collecting around the t-stat. I had a big problem with that in an Aries K. Once it got hot enough to open the t-stat a few times the temperature settled down.

If the fan is not doing its job sufficiently you will get overheating at stop lights and in crawling traffic, but cooling that is fine above maybe 15 or 20 MPH.

If the bottom radiator hose has failed, it can collapse due to the suction of the water pump. For the whole length of that hose you should not be able to flatten the hose by hand. It should have a spiral of wire, a "spring," inside it that prevents that. If that wire has corroded, and isn't doing its job you can get compromised flow.

When the engine is cold, start it up. Before long, the heater hose that comes out neat the t-stat should start to warm up, while the upper radiator hose stays cold. The closed t-stat forces circulation through the heater system. This causes flow over the hot surfaces, and carries the heat from the area of the cylinders to the area of the t-stat. without that, the water's heat would take 10's of minuted to get to the t-stat.

Next, when the heater hoses get too hot to touch comfortably, but before the engine overheats, the upper radiator hose should start to warm up. The t-stat will start to open, and a little hot water will sneak out of the engine, heating the hose a little. That will introduce a little cold water from the radiator into the water pump, where it will get quickly mixed with the water circulating through the heater system, closing the t-stat pretty quickly. So the initial warming of the upper radiator hose will be pretty slow.

If it overheats before the upper hose gets too hot to touch, you have a t-stat problem. Either the t-stat is failing to do its job, or it is not getting the heat signal it needs to operate properly.

If the heater system is clogged or plumbed wrong, it will not allow the requisite circulation.

I hope this gets you on the road to fixing your overheating problem. A 302 with a mondo radiator as you describe should have no overheating troubles, even in the desert!

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Water pump would never do that. pump either works or doesn't. You should have no heat 'till the engine is warmed up. Engine heats the water. If it was doing this before you changed the thermostat then the old one may have been bad. However, at this point, Id be looking to see if you have it installed with the spring end towards the engine, if the electric fans are coming on and if the radiator is internally obstructed and not flowing properly. You need to re-fill the system with the heat on full hot and the fill cap off to ensure that air purges from the system. If equipped with air bleeds, use them as well. One trick I use to prevent air binding is to warm up the engine to the point that the temperature is just below where it normally runs at. Turn the engine off and wait about three minutes for the stat to open and then begin filling slowly till it's full.(running) Used to be you could check radiator flow by putting your hand on it in different spots when hot. Cold spots would be where flow is restricted. Today radiators are not easily reached but most good shops use a heat sensing gun to check this. If your radiator fills through a cap on the radiator if you need to dribble coolant in or it backs up, that is a good indication that the radiator is obstructed as well (providing t stat is working.)

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My 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor is overheating, I noticed it last night when I turn the fan on to high heat the gauge will drop to a normal temperature. I checked the fluid level that?s ok, and opened the...


Hi,

Lot of possible reasons. Some of them very stupid, even though I mention it here, sorry:

1. Thermostat regulating the cooling fluid flow - works correct?
2. Enough cooling fluid? Not leaking from somewhere?
3. Level of engine oil? Its quality? (If dirty or low oil, heat can not spreed into oil - oil is cooling subsatnce as well. If low oil level - you know what, engine is not lubricated etc.)
4. Water pump works correct? No pump, no water circulation.
5. Any dirt in the water circulation system? Piece of rock, shred of rag, maybe some sediments (can figure out only after disassembling the system = lot of garage work).

I had one friend who complained about his mazda MX3 quick overheating. My first question was, if there is cooling fluid and he told me "Of course!!! - I was in the garage yeasterday evening and fluid was refilled." The engine was hot and smoking badly after 3 mins of calm slow ride. Next day he called me with curious finding - there was no cooling fluid at all, was leaking out from the radiator. Thanks for contacting Fixya.

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Run the engine and look at the header tank , is there lots of air bubbles coming back out of the water if is then the head gasket may have split and that is down to either a can of Radweld or a strip down repair

If the radiator is not uniformly hot them I would go for that as your problem

Normal operation is that the engine starts the thermostat is closed , engine block heats up and opens water starts to circulate around the block

So to check that you need to fill the radiator with cold water run it for a few minutes check the bottom hose it should be cold

The stat opens and the bottom hose should get hot as the water from the block is pumped into the radiator for cooling.

The radiator should get hot all over and the cooling fan should kick in when the sensor hits the over limit stop.

If that does not happen then get someone to remove the stat altogether (It is only there to get the engine block warm quickly in cold regions )

In which case the bottom hose should go from cold to warm to hot

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