Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Bravada

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My 1995 bravada cross member has rusted on one side and I cannot find a replacement. I know that the years from 1995 to 2000 are suppose to be the same. Any direction you can steer me in. Thanks Al

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Go to www.crossmembers.com. They make a replacement crossmember for this. Good luck on finding one sitting around in a dealer or boneyard. All the good ones are long gone.

Posted on Dec 09, 2010

  • dixon77_2005
    dixon77_2005 Mar 10, 2012

    go to gmgiantparts.com

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2001 pontiac sunfire rusted frame


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Rusted crossbar underneath truck near transmission , Where can I find a replacement?


In my 2000 Bravada I went to the Olds/Gm dealer and bought it for $100. I went to junk yard after junk yard to find it but found out that it is very common for that bar to be rusted through. I even had to jack up my transmission just to get it in the correct way. I even went to the local Walmart and bought some undercoating kinda like rino lining. Took a full day to get it sprayed and really covered. The next day I was able to put it in. It is not easy to do but it can be done.

Feb 09, 2013 | 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

1 Answer

Hello, ok I got a 95 Yukon 4 door, now with the four door they have the dog bone insulators. The 2 door has cross member right to the frame. I recently got into an accident smacked a curb with the...


Yep, Sounds like you have a bad misalignment that is causing stressing of the suspension. This also may cause another accident or cause injury. Have a body shop give you an estimate to repair the damage. They may tell you what is not right. If the cross member is obviously bent, they may be able to straighten it. If you are confident you can fix it, measure a good one, same model. take pics with your cell phone. Get all the frame mounting points as close to factory as possible using a solid good original point as a reference. Also check the top components are probably bent as well. Harbor Freight sells a hydraulic ram kit that may help. be very careful and should only try this is you are very handy, very safe, and a general fabricator.

Apr 03, 2017 | 1995 GMC Yukon

2 Answers

Getting access to the big ends


Hi,
This link will give you FREE or PAID - select FREE - it will download a 96 Engine but the engine is the same as you have in the basics. You must have a PDF reader it is free to download and use and most everyone has it but if not please download it HERE
There is an additional helpful thing for you - - please take down the vin number - and go to the dealer - the dealer for FREE will print out your specific engine rebuild needs specific for your engine based on your unique Vin number. This is more and more common due to changes mid year where as in the early days engines remained the same for years longer and now they change mid-year often. Also CHECK for RECALLS on your Vehicle.

I hope this does you good. PLEASE RATE ME HELPFUL - It really makes a difference for me.

Thanks and let me know how this goes with a comment please.
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bd96164.jpg

May 11, 2010 | 1995 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

I have a hose hanging from my rear axle. Where is


It is a vent for the rear end. It would have been attached to a frame cross member. The fastener has probably rusted off. Use a piece of wire or a zip tie and fastn it back up. Hope this helps.

Feb 08, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Knocking coming from under the extended cab from


There called torsion bar mount bushings, and will cost about $34.00 for both of them. Parts Source.

Jack up RH side of truck, crawl under LH side
  • 1 Remove nut from torsion bar mount stud that secures the mount to the cross-member. You'll have to feel for it, you won't be able to see it from below.
  • 2 Remove bottom two bolts. Easy, they're in plain view from below. Now the mount is free.
  • 3 Push up on cross member, remove old mount.
  • 4 Insert new mount - push up on cross member, slip mount in between frame and cross member. Drop hole in cross member over the stud.
  • 5 Loose assemble nut and two bolts. Torque down once other side is done.
Now over to the passenger side
  • 6 Jack up driver side of truck
  • 7 Repeat steps 1 and 2
  • 8 To get the mount out, try pushing up on the cross member, just like the driver side. If it comes out, great. I couldn't get the cross member up high enough on mine. I used a big screwdriver and ripped it out by separating the rubber from the metal plate. It came out in pieces.
  • 9 Install new mount. If you didn't have trouble getting the old one out, you probably won't have a problem getting the new one in. As I said, I did. I couldn't raise the cross member high enough to slip it in. Solution: whack 3/8" off the stud. You'll still have plenty left for the nut.
  • 10 Reinstall nut & bolts, torque down.
  • 11 Remove jack, Torque down drives side.
Good luck. The TRW's are one-piece urethane, (I think) and came with a lifetime guarantee. They'll probably outlast the vehicle.

Nov 15, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet S-10

4 Answers

CLUNKING NOISE FROM REAR AXLE


Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.

May 15, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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