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Ignition only turns to run & stop positions, not ac pos. what do you think

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Hello! I would suggest changing the ignition lock cylinder...

Guru.............Saailer

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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1 Answer

My air conditioner just stopped blowing and every light on my dashboard is on, what's going on?


I personally do a little list of things when blasted with major chaos like that. You've left out about a thousand things sooo... Is the car still running did this happen when you turned the AC on or did it come out of the blue? have you done work on anything recently? Seems funny you'd mention AC when a lot of people might just say I went out to the car and Bam! or I'm drivin down the freeway and it all went dead! indicator panel and dash are fuse protected and the ground switching usually have hot already there and a switch applies or denies the ground, with no blown fuses sounds initially like my old favorite: Positive RED battery cable. some of my weirdest electrical issues ( real head scratchers ) have been a pos short or pos denied (due to corrosion// sometimes the corrosion is up inside and can't be seen) Anyway without knowing some crucial details can't really go much further. If you have done some work on say AC or Fan sw or blower resistor pack; retrace your steps. Might try disconn Batt pull high amp fuses reconn Batt check cables while you're there :-) and one by one putting fuses in {correct slot of course} you might just find it that way...let one of us know I'm curious on what you find~~~ hope it helps 77mitchase77@Gmail

Jul 14, 2014 | 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

AC and Cooling Fans Not Working


Try installing a jumper across the N/O terminal at the relay socket. Temp sensor in the radiator or in the thermostat housing supplies the signal for the relay the other relay signal is supplied by A/C in on position. both fans will run continuous with A/C on. One fan runs intermittent relative to water temp. Be careful not to blow a head gasket. If you leave the jumpers in place, the fans will stop when the ignition is turned off, save the engine until you isolate the relay signal problem. then simply remove jumpers and reinstall the relays

Feb 28, 2017 | 1989 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Need to what Cod #P1258 & P013 & P0174 &P0300 &P0404 Thank You


The 174 refers to your oxygen sensor's bank 2 (driver's side) system running too lean check wiring to sensor and pull sensor to try cleaning and retesting before replacing, 13 is an open circuit on your camshaft position actuator, check connection going to cam pos. sensor 300 is random or intermittent misfiring of cylinders can be related to faulty spark plugs, ignition coils or even a stopped up catalytic converter or exhaust system 404 is an exhaust gas recirculation valve 1258 refers to the ecu (computer) controlling the air/fuel ratio metering this is probably the computer trying to compensate for the other problems the 174 code is probably related too.

Mar 02, 2011 | 1997 Cadillac Eldorado

3 Answers

Key locks in the ignition in the ACC position. can't take key out


when you turn key to acc pos that is telling the ignition to go into a accessory mode which runs the radio,wipers etc... but it doesnt allow the ignition circuit to run, and the key in most vehicles will not be able to come out,this is a security protection so that you do not leave accessories on that will drain the battery. The ignition key should only be able to be removed in the OFF position.

Jan 21, 2011 | 2001 Saturn L-Series

2 Answers

No spark from spark plug wires I think it may be the distributor cap or interior parts under cap like rotor and condensor but dont want to change parts thats are fine i replaced the plugs but still no...


There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)
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Jul 30, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

1 Answer

Hello i have a 1989 sunbird 2 liter engine,i changed plugs,wires,cap,rotor button,fuel pump and fuel filter,it idles great but if you drive it for maybe 30kms and come to a stop sign it will stall...


There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Jun 25, 2010 | 1989 Pontiac Sunbird

1 Answer

Truck stalls after 30 minutes of driving and wont restart for over an hour.


Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty00d4d77.jpg

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Jun 24, 2010 | 1987 Ford F 250

1 Answer

I have a 91 f250 with 7.5 liter and no spark. where may the problem be?


Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty.


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Jun 19, 2010 | 1991 Ford F250

2 Answers

1992 GMC Suburban wont start. Died at a stop sign. Acting like its outa gas. It not. Put gas in carb to start er up and it ran for a block then died again. Listened to fuel pump when I turned on the...


Have the crank shaft sensor check out. This is a beginning of the problem. After that it will never be able to start since the ECM doesn't know what the position of the piston reported through the crankshaft sensor to turn on the proper ignition. Good luck.

Dec 14, 2009 | 1992 GMC Suburban

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