Question about 1985 Chevrolet Caprice

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Car turns off when i brake than i just have to re-start the car. The three tubed pipe on the bottom end of the left side of engine the runs up into one complete pipe, which connects to a hose of some kind has broken off (just at the top). i assume thats the problem, i just need the parts name and what kind of repairs need to be done and if i could install it myself

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This is a vaccum line and needs to be connected....yes you should be able to do it yoursel with parts from the local auto store

Posted on Aug 26, 2010


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2007 gmc canyon sputters like it is going to cut off when applying brakes sometimes hard to start. just changed plugs and air filter . could it be brake booster or something else

if I say possible servo booster is faulty,surely you will feel it on the brake pedal ( stiff ),or the engine running would be erratic.the other alternative situation is the pipe( hose ) which is connected with inlet manifold and servo booster and inside has the check valve probably is faulty. Test : off engine,pump brake pedal several times till gets stiff. Keeping your foot on brake pedal start the engine and if your servo works fine then the pedal goes a bit down,if not will not move at all. If the engine is running erraticly then with engine off, remove the pipe connecting manifold and servo block the pipe you remove from servo side,block it and start the engine,If engine run fine,then you must confirm whether is the servo or the check valve hose. For the check valve hose how to check,just put in your mouth the servo side pipe and blow into,if the air goes in the engine means that the check valve is broken and you must renew the pipe with check valve,if on blowing into will not allow air to get through,means is ok and the servo is the fault. Good luck.

Jan 03, 2013 | 2007 GMC Canyon Crew

2 Answers

How to bleed n Clutch system on Ford Bantam 1.3

I have a Ford Bantam 1.3 bakkie and the clutch fluid is running / leaking into the vehicle itself. How do we replace?

May 03, 2012 | 2006 Ford Bantam 1.3i

2 Answers

95 villager has right front brake drag, replaced the brakes, rotor, hoses, calipers and installed a used abs modulator. orginally it was right front left rear issues, not it is only right front

This type of problem can occur if the wrong fluid has been used at some earlier stage,in which case all seals need to be replaced along with master cylinder overhaul.

Jun 19, 2011 | 1995 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

I took my 2001 olds bravada to advance auto to have a service engine light checked they checked it and told me it was a secondary air intake malfunction code then they erased the code after that my car...

Too much air is entering the inlet manifold making the air/fuel mix too lean to ignite. Can you hear any suspect whistling or hissing from any of the pipes etc whilst the engine is turning over. Check every junction in the air ducting from the air filter box though to the throttle intake. There should be no disconnected pipes or holes. Likewise all the pipes and tubes that connect with the inlet manifold should have secure junctions, the pipes should be free of splits etc and the other ends of these pipes should also be secure to the devices to which they are attached. Be diligent in checking every bit. Two approaches that might make the leak detection quicker: 1) Disconnect the vacuum tubes (those that make connection to the inlet manifold) one at a time and in turn to block the now open pipe to the inlet manifold with your finger. Do this to each tube in turn whilst trying to start the engine, eventually you will find the faulty tube because the engine will start. 2) Spray your brake cleaner on the outside of the tubes one at a time. Eventually you will find the site of the leak as the car will surge in revs as it it sucks in the brake cleaner and ignites it. Finally check around the injector seats and also where the inlet manifold makes union with the cylinder head

Sep 02, 2010 | 2001 Oldsmobile Bravada

1 Answer

2004 Gmc Envoy Airconditioner Condensation Is Leaking Into The Floorboard On The Passinger Side Of My Car

Most probably your condensate drain is blocked. Check to see if the usual dripping at the left front tire is continuing or not (after running the A/C and the vehicle is stopped). If not you have a choked drain pipe. The drain hose is located to the left of the engine compartment just below the AC lines coming out of the firewall. There is a rubber tube about 1" diameter and it has a small plastic tube 3/8" coming out from the bottom side of the larger tube. Please take care accessing the tube as there are pipes and tubes really hot in the vicinity. It is always a good idea to wait till the engine has cooled down. The drain tube sometimes gets blocked and causes leaking onto the rug area inside the truck, just pull the small tube out by pulling it down and clean the small/large tube. If there is any water from the AC it will drain out.

Jul 06, 2010 | 2004 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

What is the sequence to bleed the brakes on a 1994 Chevy Suburban?

Bleeding the Brakes
EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.
  1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the diaphragm.
  2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
  3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are unscrewed.

Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid


Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel


Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series


Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series
  1. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
  2. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
  3. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual vacuum.
  4. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.
Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
  1. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
  2. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.
HYDRO-BOOSTThe system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed.
  1. Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base of the pump reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the distributor.
Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the injection pump before cranking the engine.
  1. Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and crank the engine for a few seconds.
  2. Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the "ADD" mark on the dipstick.
  3. Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine. Check fluid level and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With the engine running, turn the wheels from side to side to bleed air from the system. Make sure that the fluid level stays above the internal pump casting.
  4. The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is foaming after bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one hour, then repeat the second part of Step 4.
The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the excess air from the system, however sometimes air may still remain trapped. When this happens the booster may make a gulping noise when the brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal with the engine running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops, check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.

Hope helps with this (remember comment and rated this).

Jun 19, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding brake system how?


Make sure one end of the Jeep is raised (starting with the rear end) and secure on jack stands and the wheels on each side have been removed. If you have been working on the brakes, this should already be done.

Connect a clear rubber tube to the bleeder valve on the right rear brake caliper. Start with this end and side because it is farthest from the master cylinder.Place the tube's other end into a container partially filled with brake fluid.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper and have an assistant press on the brake pedal inside the Jeep. Look for a mixture of air and fluid to come out of the valve. Once all the air is purged and the fluid runs cleanly from the valve, close the screw and remove the tube.

Repeat the process for all four brakes. Move to the left rear next, followed by the right front and the left front. If you need to, reconnect the Jeep's rear wheels and lower the rear end before raising the front end and removing those wheels.

Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder periodically as you bleed the brakes. If the level drops below the needed fill line, add more fluid. Use fresh fluid, not any that you have bled from the brakes.

Start the Jeep's engine after bleeding all the brakes and press on the brake pedal. You might need to do this repeatedly to seat new brake pads you just installed. Turn off the engine and hold down on the pedal. Bleed the brakes again if the pedal sink within 15 to 20 seconds.

Dec 21, 2009 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

How do i bleed brakes of nissan 1400

Depending on the size of your bleed nipples you will need an 8 or 10mm spanner,a clear 5 or 6mm tube about 400mm long , a bleed jar(jamjar can do)and a friend to help you.

1:Fill up your brake fluid resovour to max mark and connect one end of pipe to one bleed nipple and other end in jar(start at the back wheels)
2:Ask friend to apply pressure to brake pedal
3:Turn bleed nipple counter-clockwise(normally only ¼ turn)until you see fluid or the brake pedal has bottomed.
4:Tighten bleed nipple again (clockwise)and ask your friend to release and then apply pressure again on the pedal.
5:Repeat this process until you see no more air bubbles coming from the bleed tube.(you need also to top up the fluid level by the mastercylinder after every few minutes)
6:Repeat process on the other 3 wheels and you done.

Please leave a positive feedback if I have helped you.


Aug 09, 2009 | 1997 Nissan Pickup

2 Answers

Do i bleed brakes with car running

No need to have the car running. That just helps supply the vacuum to make them work better but has nothing to do with the basic brake setup.

It's a fairly quick fun job. Take your time have a buddy and lots of brake fluid and you can do as good a job as any shop. (no matter what they say ;-])

Jul 20, 2009 | 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix

2 Answers

Leaking brake line

probably not the lines are usually attached to the frame rail behind the tank.

Aug 25, 2008 | 1999 Dodge Durango

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