Question about 1996 Lincoln Town Car

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Battery runs down over 24 period if not driven. replaced alternator, battery diagnostic result said computer was wet

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It is a common fault that the battery runs down but in such situations the drain CURRENT must be checked to isolate the draining circuit so as to confirm it . So connect an ammeter in series to the battery positive voltage.
Now remove off one by one the fuses starting from the accessories, the remote control unit if any , the clock , till the reading drops off.
Now centre on this circuit to find the source of the drain., disconnect the faulty device and repair.
Your battery drain must never exceed the limit of the allowance of the battery.

Posted on Aug 26, 2010


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My 1991 Ford F350 w/5.8, 351Windsor driven for an unspecified amount of time (days, weeks, months?) with a bad alternator. After replaceing it, next was solenoid & starter. Now, not firing. Good coil…

if the alternator was not charging , there would have been an indicator light on in the dash or the volt gauge would have been showing a negative or under 11 volts
second point against a failed alternator for a period of time is that it would have been running off the battery and that results in missing, not starting and engine stopping , dying when being driven as the battery ran down so maybe 2 days at the most with a bad alternator
no spark is-- immobilizer , cam/crank position sensor and ignition control module , no injector or fuel pressure
try reading the fault codes to get closer to the problem

Jul 10, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Battery light off

If the engine is running and the battery light is coming on then there is a problem with the alternator. This is the component that charges the battery when the engine is running. If not attended to soon it will result in a flat battery.

The alternator is driven by the fan belt so I suggest checking that it is not snapped off or slipping badly.

Good luck!

Nov 11, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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I can't get an inspection sticker for my car because it keeps failing inspection because the computer will not reset. Every time it does the same thing. When they test the OBDII Readiness it says the...

Every time you reset the light or disconnect the battery it completely resets the system and it has to go through EVERY test again. The O2, EVAP, and Cat tests are generally the LAST THREE tests that are tested. You're not doing yourself any favors here.

Essentially what these readiness monitors are is the computer's notation that his has run the self diagnostics on each system and that the results feel into the expected results. If it is outside the expected results the computer will generally try to run the test multiple times before setting a DTC and turning on the Check Engine Light. It cannot set the status to "Ready" until it has a successful test within expected results; sometimes multiple successful tests. Sometimes, the tests need to run at different speeds - so the vehicle has to be driven not only at freeway speeds, but also city speeds for the tests to complete properly.

The O2 test MUST complete before the Catalyst test can run. The EVAP test generally requires that you have your fuel level at between 1/4 and 3/4 and that the vehicle sit undisturbed after being driven for a period of time for no less than 8 hours in order to run the EVAP test.

The same can be said for the O2 test sometimes because the computer needs to test the O2 sensors reaction to heating up and cooling down. Eventually they will all complete - unless there is an issue. I have seen where a component was in the process of going out and the computer was getting both GOOD and BAD results when running the tests. As a result it wouldn't set ready status because it wasn't getting the concurrent GOOD test results.

As a Texas Recognized Emissions Repair Facility - my shop sees this kind of stuff all the time.

Good Luck.

Jun 01, 2011 | 2006 Mazda 6

2 Answers

Car will only start after it has been jumped, it will not stay charged. when jumped car starts right up

You may have a dead cell in your battery. First, look at your battery and see if it's a maintenance free battery. If it is NOT,
Check, or have someone check, your levels in the battery. If they are low it will preven the alternator from charging the battery to it's normal level, if it has been low for an extended period of time it can cause a dead cell.

If you're able to get the vehicle by a parts store many of them will hook up a diagnostic computer to your battery and alternator, right there in your car, to make sure both are working properly, and most do it for FREE.

I hope this is helpful.

Jan 28, 2011 | 2006 Cadillac STS

1 Answer

2002 expedititon xlt, the battery drains after being driven and returns to non use for time period like overnight. once jumped will stay running with no issues, and able to turn on and off the rest of the...

"The battery drains after being driven" as per your question.In this case check the alternator.The alternator is the part which keeps the battery charge while car is running.If the alternator is faulty or not connected properly then it will not charge the car while its running and car battery will loose its charge after being driven.--------- Also check one more thing.When you turn off your car while night at that time.Check the voltage of car battery and in the morning before you start driving it again measure the voltage of battery again.If the voltage is different between to checking,.Then yes there is a short in the car wirings.Any of the internal electrical part like headlight or car ac or heater etc etc is not turning off,because there is a short and this is draining the battery overnight and this cause battery to loose its charge in the morning.There can also be the possibility that ignition switch of the car is faulty.You think you have turned the car key to OFF position,but actually the ignition switch is not turned to off,its just showing its on off.Check this also.If there is short in ignition switch then car will actually not turn off and this will drain the car battery.---------- This troubleshooting possibilities will pin point towards the fault.Thanks.Helpmech.

Jan 25, 2011 | 2002 Ford Expedition

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My 1995 gmc safari turns over but won't start. After running the battery down, I hook up to my friends car to jump it. The van then starts right up. As soon as I put it into drive and press on the...

  1. Auto inspections of the vehicle may produce results contributing towards restoration. For example, the auto technician makes the evaluation as separate arrangement from which problematic areas are ascertainable. The result findings are documented as diagnostic draft plans from which repair authorizations are achievable. At which point, diagnostic without repair requirements would least requires any further procedures. However, once the vehicles diagnostics produce result requiring expert vehicle repairs, the next sequence of procedures are initiated. First, vehicle repairs require constituent components either permanent parts or depleteable resources constituents prior to workshop initiation plans. Auto technician diagnostic plans would usually contain the damage of the vehicle. A decision to commence restoration of the faults would produce estimate drafts in parts repaired for either replacement acquirable, leasable or alternately. The next sequence includes calculations estimates in resources that would be required contributing towards entire workshop restoration process procedures.

Jan 11, 2011 | 1995 GMC Safari

1 Answer

Power loss

The alternator is going out,now,the alternator can be bad,or the voltage regulator,in the computer(on this vehicle),Have the alternator checked out,13.65 volts,to 14.25 volts is what it needs to be,with the headlights on,and ac,high blower setting,it needs to be checked,at the battery with the engine running,and these components on.

Feb 12, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Starter, battery, or alter Promblems.

There seems to be a no charge state in this case. I recommend checking the charging system. use the procedure below to isolate this issue.

Wear protective eye wear and clothing and remove all jewelry when checking your battery and charging system. Jewelry is a good conductor of electricity and is not recommended. Most batteries wear out every 3 to 5 years and need to be replaced. Always replace your battery with an equal replacement battery to assure proper operation. Automotive batteries have a +positive terminal (red), - negative terminal (black). Electricity is stored in the battery and then supplied to the vehicle when the engine is not running. While the engine is running the vehicles alternator charges the battery for future use. (Note: never disconnect the battery while the engine is running. If the battery cable is disconnected from the battery a spark can be generated which can cause the battery to explode or a major electrical malfunction to occur.)

To check a battery surface voltage, remove the positive terminal protective cover. Connect the +positive side meter lead (red) to the positive side battery terminal. Connect the - negative (black) side meter lead to the negative battery terminal. With the vehicle not running and the car sitting over night the battery voltage should be between 12.5 and 12.8 volts.(You will need to use a voltmeter for this testing procedure)

The alternator is rotated by a drive belt driven by the vehicles engine while it is running. Electrical voltage and amperage are generated to recharge the battery and supply voltage to the electrical system of the car. The alternator is held in place with mounting bolts. There is a main electrical wire on the rear of the alternator that supplies voltage to a main voltage junction box. If your alternator is not charging properly, your battery will slowly drain down from operating all the electrical systems in your car and stop the car from running.(most non charge states will be the cause of a loose belt or a low tension rate, due to a mis-adjusted alternator. make sure you have enough tension in the belt for full rotation of the alt pulley)

Next, you will need to check the alternators output with the Amp meter.

Testing the amperage output of the alternator is good for measuring the amount (not the level) of voltage the alternator can produce. This test can be tricky because if the alternator is weak it can still show it as producing amperage. Which is good, but if the voltage is low, it will still allow the battery to go dead. To check the amperage output of an alternator an amp meter is needed. Once the meter is connected start the engine. Next turn on all electrical accessories and raise the engine idle to about 1200 RPM. The alternator should output the max amperage it was designed to produce. Example: a 90 amp alternator should output about 88 amps. Note: An alternator cannot sustain maximum output for long periods of time. If the alternator is forced to operate at maximum output it will overheat and fail. An alternator is designed to operate at max amperage output only for a reasonable amount of time.

((Connect the voltage meter lead the same way you would in a battery static voltage check, Start engine (do not drive) at engine idle the voltage should be between 13.6 to 14.3 volts. If not the alternator may need replacing.)))

Additionally, If the above inspections prove that the charging system, and battery are ok, This will lead to a battery drain issue.

Here is a procedure I use to isolate a battery drain. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected. The test light will glow or "light" if there is a drain. If the "light or glow" is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer. If the "light or glow" is bright, this will indicate a large drain is present. That should be corrected,asap. Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out; The one fuse that causes the light to shut off, will be the circuit with the drain. Remember to close the car doors, when testing. If not, the interior doom light will interfere with the results of the test.

Dec 15, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Charging System issue!

I had a simular problem, and I have worked on cars for 37 years.
In my case it was the ecm. I tested and tested, come to find out, at higher rpm's, (when car is being driven), the ecm caused the voltage regulator to stay in a high charge situation, which burnt up the alternator, changed it, and was fine.
I'm not saying it will work in your case, but you tried everything else.

Apr 23, 2009 | 1990 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Engine light

The "rotten-egg" smell is caused indirectly by the catalytic converter. The main cause is a rich mixture condition from the engine. Your SUV is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system. You can scan your computer for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components. There is an alternate reason for the rotten egg smell. this also can be caused by a over charged battery. if so, make sure the alternator isn't overcharging the battery cell. it will boil the contents causing the egg smell. I recommend a diagnostic run to make sure what this problem is.

please rate and god bless.

Mar 17, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Durango

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