Question about 1995 Toyota Avalon

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WHEN REMOVING RIGHT CV JOINT WHEN SHOULD ELECTRICAL TIES BE CUT? BEFORE OR AFTER? OR DO YOU LEAVE THEM ALONE?

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Only if it in the way, for the job your doing, if it has a connector, disconnect it and reconnect it with key off, before and after the job.

Posted on Aug 26, 2010

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Cv joint but the plastic thang that go around it


One would have to remove the half shaft to service the cv joint properly.

CV-Joints Overhaul Check the CV-boot for wear tccs7030.jpg

Removing the outer band from the CV-boot tccs7031.jpg

Removing the inner band from the CV-boot tccs7032.jpg

Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing tccs7033.jpg

Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot tccs7034.jpg

Removing the CV-joint housing assembly tccs7035.jpg

Removing the CV-joint tccs7036.jpg

Inspecting the CV-joint housing tccs7037.jpg

Removing the CV-joint outer snapring tccs7038.jpg

Checking the CV-joint snapring for wear tccs7039.jpg

CV-joint snapring (typical) tccs7040.jpg

Removing the CV-joint assembly tccs7041.jpg

Removing the CV-joint inner snapring tccs7042.jpg

Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical) tccs7043.jpg

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Oct 08, 2010 | 2004 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?


CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.


  1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
  2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
    boot from the joint outer race.
  3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
    outer race (the body of the joint).
  4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
    assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
  5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
    splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
  6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
    to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
    of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.


  1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
    is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
    inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
    shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
    together. Insert the balls into the cage.
  2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
    specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
  3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
    bands is correct.
  4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
  2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
    that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
  3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
    halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
  4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
    shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
    damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:


  1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
    vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
    damper, if used, in the correct order.
  2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
  3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
    supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
    being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
    grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
  4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
    distance between boot bands is correct.
  5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
    cable.






Check the CV-boot for wear
tccs7030.jpg








Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
tccs7031.jpg








Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
tccs7032.jpg








Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
tccs7033.jpg








Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
tccs7034.jpg








Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
tccs7035.jpg








Removing the CV-joint
tccs7036.jpg








Inspecting the CV-joint housing
tccs7037.jpg








Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
tccs7038.jpg








Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
tccs7039.jpg








CV-joint snap ring (typical)
tccs7040.jpg








Removing the CV-joint assembly
tccs7041.jpg








Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
tccs7042.jpg








Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
tccs7043.jpg




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Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

2 Answers

Clunking noise at full lock right


drive shaft constant velocity joint ,check rubber boot if ok then leave well alone because it will run for another 10,000 miles at least

Apr 19, 2010 | 2003 Volkswagen Golf

2 Answers

Axle will not come out of the axle housing


I quote from service manual

1 . Raise and support the truck. Remove the rear wheels, the brake drum or brake caliper and rotor. If this is a disc brake, support caliper with wire. Remove seal retainer nuts from axle
housing.

2 . Pull out the axle shaft from housing. Remove the snap ring and bearing race from the axle shaft. Cut the bearing retainer. Break the bearing cage using a hammer and chisel and remove cage and rollers.

3 . Remove the oil seal, the seal retainer and the parking brake assembly (rear). Using a hydraulic press and bearing splitter, press the inner race from axle shaft. Inspect axle shaft for seal wear. Ensure that the shaft is not bent.

2989d8f.jpg

Mar 03, 2010 | Isuzu Trooper Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Clicking noises when turning


sounds like a cv joint if it is in the front end.

Feb 13, 2010 | 1989 Ford Tempo

1 Answer

Removel of a 1996 front driveshaft


You should be able to separate the drive shaft from the CV joint, once you pull the boot back. I believe the shaft is retained to the inner part of the CV joint by a retainer clip, this is what you'd typically find. Just replacing the CV boot alone makes separating them necessary.

Jan 02, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

I changed my front right cv joint and now the clanking/grinding wound is worse and my bakes arent working but there is enough fluid


The CV joint has nothing to do with the brakes you probably put something back wrong because you had to remove the Caliper and Brake pads.
The CV joint you probably never replaced the C clip which keeps the shaft spline from going out into the hub. The CV joint also has to be synchronized. Which means they have to line up on both sides. Most will mark the shaft first, before removing.

Jul 03, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

97 toyota celica outer cv boot replacement passenger side


have you undone the main hub bolt, if yes, there could be two different items holding the cv joint on, one is a small circlip in the joint end, or the other is just like an expanding metal ring again only small. what i had to do to change my one was take the driveshaft out (easier to see whats there) then gently (rubber hammer) hit the CV joint it should then fall off to allow you to change the CV joint. I spent over an hour trying to get the metal ring off, then after taking driveshaft off it was changed and back on in ten mins. Or you can go to a motor factors or similar and get a boot puller, my opinion hammer works better lol

Jan 25, 2009 | 1997 Toyota Celica

2 Answers

94 Geo Prizm CV or driveaxle?


on this type of vehichle, you have two axles in the front; one going to each side. Chances are that the boot at the axle joint was torn and that is why you are having problem. In teh past people used to replace the boot, this day and age its actually cheaper to replace the axle. So you would need to replace that side of the axle (the half shaft).

Nov 19, 2008 | 1994 Geo Prizm

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