Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue
That tube is the return line to the transmission from the cooler in the radiator. Fix that and the shift problems should stop, meantime the reduced flow will cause the hard shifts, and wearing the heck out of the clutches in the tranny. Get on that! The following as well: The Thermostat is likely not opening all the way which would cause the overheat under heavier loads. 2 different problems-somewhat related.
Posted on Apr 03, 2017
Could be a good candidate for the overheating problem
it is probably the oil line that goes to the oil cooler in the radiator and if it doesn't have sufficient flow then the oil in the transmission gets progressively hotter
before replacing it consider this
transmission oil coolers that are in the radiator tank keep the oil at coolant temps which is around 95 C
if you spend a bit of cash and fit an air to air transmission cooler , it brings the operating temp of the oil down to 1/2 ambient temp
besides the fact that your are now removing an added heat source from the coolant of the engine the results are --cooler running engine and cooler running transmission
worth talking to an accredited transmission specialist shop
Posted on Apr 03, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your vehicle has the 3.4 ltr engine and the 4T65E model transmission,which i have rebuilt many,many of.First,verify the transmission fluid level is FULL,and not low,also verify by pulling the pan,that the filter is in place.If all that checks out,then the problem is internal.For the problem you are describing,there are two areas to address.The first,which can be checked outside the trans with a 0-300 psi gauge is the EPC solenoid.EPC stands for Electronic Pressure Control.It is an electrically controlled solenoid that regulates mainline pressure inside the trans.The OEM (original equipment manufacturer) solenoid is known to be problematic,and erratic,causing your vehicle's symptoms of neutralling out,and slamming back into gear.The other area is the Forward piston inside the Forward/3rd gear input drum.The steel piston gets a ridge worn into it,and when it tries to apply at a stop light upon taking off,the ridge causes the piston to hang up momentarily,and then when it frees up,again,a neutral/slam into gear.Common problem that i have had to address over and over on these transmissions.Good luck.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
start good,but after it warm up it die out and wont start for 20 min. or so,i had a engine timer or point as in the old day lol,now it doing the same thing all over again, in like 6 month at a $166. OUCH.i'm in NH,so it cold up here and it still do it,but not all the firstname.lastname@example.org phone 205 2947035 ty
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, check the wiring/connectors to the speed sensor. The speed sensor is at the transmission would look like the image below.
Incidentally, the speed sensor not only sends signal to the speedometer, is signals are also used by the engine computer and the transmission control. This would partly explain all the other concerns.
Check and perform preliminary visual or necessary inspection. Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
it sure sounds like it....and yes those metal lines are full of transmission fluid....they come from the tranny to cool the transmission fluid, and return it to the trans..
Posted on May 08, 2009
I have had both of these situations happen to me and they are completely unrelated.
The Rattle: If you have the factory wheels with the olds center caps, take them off. My husband tightened every screw on the car until he took the center caps off my wheels, and lo and behold, NO MORE RATTLE.
The Hard Starting: If you notice it starts hard and the RPMs are high, your throttle cable is sticking. I have this exact same problem with my 99 Intrigue GLS. The only way I can get it to quit is start and restart the car until it quits. Obviously not the best solution, but I would check your cable first before trying anything else.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
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