Is the heater under the carb nessasery on the 2.8L

honestly i dont know the second one but there is no way its for fuel regulation on high revs ,, maby for inceased idle speed when under loa ,,, ie aircon or all lights and heaters on ,,, to me it sounds as if main jet is blocked in carb ,,,, choke is feeding in fuel in place of main jet ,, ie fuel starvation ,,,,

Check for a vacuum leak under the hood. Most heater and a/c systems rely on vacuum pressure to open and close doors and direct hot and cold air. The vehicle stalling could also be that vacuum leak. Look for a small diameter hard plastic hose. They always seem to dry rot, if it's bad it will fall apart when you move it. Best way to find a leak is to use a 2'-3' piece of water hose. Put one end against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks while the engine is running.

Under hood fuel lines, touching coolant or heater hoses.
Fuel lines under vehicle close to or not shielded from exhaust pipe, converter, muffler. Fuel lines pinched or crushed.
Fuel filter changed recently.
Fuel pump pressure. Fuel pressure regulator & Fuel pressure sensor.

The age of your vehicle also guarantee's a vacuum leak. It may sound silly but the truth is rubber grommets, and hose's shrink and dry out over time and the harsh environment under the hood makes it worse. Check all vacuum lines and fittings attached to the intake manifold, valve covers (pcv valve), and be sure to check for a vacuum fitting on top of the intake just behind the throttle body. Does it fit tight in the hole? You can seal loose fittings with a high-temp RTV (Red) silicone sealant/adhesive. Several small leaks add up and your engine, heat/AC, and transmission will be all to glad to tell you about it.

Aside from that, if you are still having problems, Have a look at the MAP & Oxygen sensors. Finally, you may end up replacing the TBI throttle body assembly.

no prime should be nessasery turn key on and off surveral times to make pump filli lines

sounds like you got some wires shotring, did they check wiring? remove column panels and inspect wire contacts, plugs and harness for signs of scorchining or arcing or burnt insulation, repair as nessasery

Injected or carb? If all emissions stuff is removed are you replacing it or just making stuff work? If usst making everything work, you need a hose from carb to vacuum advance on dist (if you have one) You can try putting the line above the throttle plate or below it and see which best suits your needs.. There is a large hose that goes to the brake power booster from the back of the carb (if power brakes, Another line goes to the vacuum system under the dash (makes heater controls operate) That line can go to a fitting on the manifold or any other full time vacuum connection on the carb base. All other connections can be blocked off.

May not apply to yours, but I have seen coolant lines routed under intake (actually through plenum below carb)...the idea is to pre-heat and vaporize fuel to prevent "puddling" under carb. If you look at most v8 engines, exhaust is routed the same way, to do the same job. You may need to use a mirror to see under there to determine exactly what's going thats causing leak.

I hope it wasn't just striaght water , and it sounds like a leaking water jacket or worse a blown head gasket. Take it in to aase cert rad repair shop and have them fix it .DON"T RUN THE VAN HAVE IT TOWED COULD BLOW MOTOR

goback and get the harness that fits the cluster and plug it direct to the fuse block, Its the only way....Good luck pat from P,O

flexable pipe from manifold to fixed pipe for the brake servo its porous and sucking in air