Question about 2004 Buick LeSabre

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As you accelerate the car makes a noise. When you reduce speed the noise decreases as the speed decreases. It sounds like it may be coming from the engine, but not sure.

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  • Hotobserver LuminaS2004

    I Have same issue.. Please help us ... the sound come up only when accelerating

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Wheel bearing

Posted on Jul 04, 2014

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I have the same issue- the noise does not occur when idle, only when accelerating-- the noise is steady during transit.

Posted on Nov 09, 2012

  • Hotobserver LuminaS2004

    Same problem... the noise came up when accelerating... Help please... what should I need to change...

  • Leo Pusateri
    Leo Pusateri Jan 03, 2014

    It turns out the noise was due to front end, not engine issues. Had issues with ball joints and the front axle.

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  • Expert
  • 39 Answers

Does it do this in neutral? Does the noise sound metal on metal?

Posted on Aug 25, 2010

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1 Answer

Throdlebody and gas peddle out of sink won,t go faster than 30


If you would like help we would need the DTC - diagnostic trouble code .Is their a Reduced Engine Power Mode message showing on the instrument cluster ?
Reduced Engine Power Mode
When the PCM detects a problem with the throttle actuator control (TAC) system the PCM enters one of the following Reduced Engine Power Modes:
• Acceleration Limiting--The control module will continue to use the accelerator pedal for throttle control, however the vehicle acceleration is limited.
• Limited Throttle Mode--The control module will continue to use the accelerator pedal for throttle control, however the maximum throttle opening is limited.
• Throttle Default Mode--The control module will turn off the throttle actuator.
• Forced Idle Mode--The control module will perform the following actions:
- Limit engine speed to idle by positioning throttle position, or by controlling fuel and spark if throttle is turned off.
- Ignore accelerator pedal input.
• Engine Shutdown Mode--The control module will disable fuel and de-energize the throttle actuator.
IF you do not know this your best bet would be to take to a qualified repair shop .
DTC P0506
DTC P0507
The throttle actuator control (TAC) motor is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The DC motor located in the throttle body drives the throttle plate. In order to decrease idle speed, the PCM commands the throttle closed reducing air flow into the engine and the idle speed decreases. In order to increase idle speed, the PCM commands the throttle plate open allowing more air to pass the throttle plate. If the actual idle RPM does not match the desired idle RPM within a calibrated time, this DTC sets.

Jan 05, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

HAS A RAE SOUND WHEN I ACCELERATE


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2 Answers

Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 expedition after i go over 40 miles engine is growling shifting but a littlle sluggish


I have had similar complaints that turned out to be the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid. The solenoid can get a little weak and air coming in through the intake at certain speeds can cause it to start vibrating. It sets off a moaning sound that resonates through the intake ducts and can get VERY loud. Sometimes it almost sounds like a fog horn.

If this is the type of noise you are hearing, replacing the IAC will fix it.

Other than that, the only suggestion I have is to see if you can get it to make the noise while the vehicle is sitting still. Slowly accelerate the engine speed with the vehicle stopped and the transmission PARK to see if it will make the noise. If the vehicle has to be moving to make the noise, then that eliminates several possibilities like the IAC, fan clutch, pullies, etc.....things that operate the same whether the vehicle is moving or sitting still.

Nov 22, 2011 | 1997 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

"Humming" or "bearing" type noise in left front at highway speeds


That's a hub bearing. Replace the one that's doing it. I'm assuming this 'roar' is coming from the front, NOT the rear.

Jun 10, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

Rattle during acceleration


it sounds like it could be a lower rod bearing going out

Feb 18, 2009 | 1995 Nissan Pickup

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