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Mirror switch not working - 2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser

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  • jjbad71 Aug 26, 2010

    Need to know a little info to get started.... Is there any noise from the door when you push the switch up or down. If not then while sitting in the car turn the key to the on position without starting it, press the switch in either diriction while looking at your dome light. Does the light dim when you press the switch?

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1 Answer

2001 chevy malibu dome light not working cant find the right fuse and power mirrors not working either


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Does the other side mirror work?

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Unless none of that is relevant and you are talking about the fold function.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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  1. check to see if there is a fuse for the mirrors and replace if bad.
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1 Answer

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The power mirrors are controlled by a module (computer) DDM - drivers door module an the PDM - passenger door module .
Folding Mirror System
Folding Mirror System Controls
The folding mirror system requires signals from 2 separate switches. The mirror select switch must be in the neutral/fold position and the mirror direction switch must be activated to the left/extend or right/retract positions. Both switches are integrated into the DDM and provide direct signals.
Folding Mirror System Operation
Upon receipt of the required switch inputs the DDM will supply battery voltage and ground to the mirror fold motor control circuits to perform the requested extend or retract function. The DDM will also send a class 2 message to the PDM indicating the requested function. The PDM will supply battery voltage and ground to the mirror fold motor control circuits to perform the requested extend or retract function.

Power Mirror System
Power Mirror System Components
The power mirror system consists of the following components:
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• The passenger door module--Class 2 module with integrated switches, requires programming when replaced and also contains the RFA receiver
• The power mirror direction switch--Integrated into DDM and is a 4-position momentary switch that provides a signal input to the DDM for up, down, left/extend and right/retract with a mirror switch activation
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• The left outside power mirror--Contains both the vertical and horizontal mirror motors and is serviced as a complete mirror assembly
• The right outside power mirror--Contains both the vertical and horizontal mirror motors and is serviced as a complete mirror assembly
• The body control module--Class 2 module that requires programming when replaced, serves as the power mode master and is the main message handler
• The DDM 10A fuse--Located in the I/P fuse block and is hot at all times
• The PDM 10A fuse--Located in the I/P fuse block and is hot at all times
• The memory switch, if equipped with memory mirrors--Supplied power by the DDM and provides a voltage signal to the DDM upon a switch activation
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• The park neutral position switch, if equipped with memory mirrors--Provides transmission gear selection information to the PCM and is used for memory recall and mirror tilt in reverse functions
• The powertrain control module, if equipped with memory mirrors--Class 2 module that requires programming when replaced and provides Class 2 message indicating transmission gear selection
• The driver information center (DIC), if equipped with memory mirrors--Part of the instrument cluster which is a Class 2 module that requires programming when replaced and is used to personalize the memory recall and mirror tilt in reverse functions
• Fold motor in each of the outside mirrors, if equipped with power fold mirrors--Provides extend and retract movements of the mirror and is serviced as a complete mirror assembly
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DTC B1722
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1 Answer

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2) Connect test light between power mirror switch harness connector terminals "A" (orange wire) and "J" (Black wire). If test light illuminates, check for poor connections at the power mirror switch. If connections are okay, replace power mirror switch. If test light does not illuminate, repair open in Black wire between power mirror switch and ground.

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2 Answers

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Unlikely a 'short,' those cause blown fuses and smoking wires.
The switch may be flaky and not contacting as it should when operated and this failure mode is called an 'open.'
Not knowing exactly how the switch is constructed nor mounted, I can't tell you how how to access it. Many switches have expansion struts on their sides that may lock or notafter being pressed in, but using care, you might try with two butter knives you don't give a hoot about, one to slip the tip under an exposed bezel (if it has one) and the other to place under the first so when you pry by rocking the top knife back and forth, the area under and around the switch doesn't get damaged from the prying.
If you can remove the switch assembly and pull it slightly out of its hole, remove the plug or plugs and reconnect them several times to 'wipe' the surface of the connector(s). Sometimes the crappy plating on connectors just stops conducting from oxidation. If the switch is constructed so that some 'tuner (or contact) cleaner' (from an electronics store) can be forced into the innards of the switch, you may be able to restore function.
I don't think it is a fuse problem as there is probably one fuse which services multple devices but it could be a failed motor. 

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