Leaky drain **** ,is there a gasket or o ring?

either bad rings or head gasket

Yes. It's called the "rear main" (crank) seal. To repalce it requires the temporary removal of the transmsission. It could also be from leaky valve cover gaskets, a front main (crank) seal or from a number of other sources. Even a leaky oil drain plug seal.

if your having oil burn on a vehicle, its either leaky head gaskets, or bad oil rings on the pistons. also check valve cover gaskets to make sure there not leaking and not leaking on exhaust manifolds as well

should be 4-5 nuts/bolts.
remove bolts, pull cover off. (pry edge with small screw driver if too tight or tap around sides with rubber mallet to loosen.
pull off all old gasket from cover and top seal area on head.

clean up all parts and wipe dry.

apply the new gasket. see image below.

make sure the 3 rings inside the cover are replaced, then reinstall.

do not over tighten.
torque spec
1.8L engine - 43-78 in-lbs

1.9L engine - 50-100 in-lbs

2.0L SPI engine - 71-97 in-lbs

2.0 Zetec engine - 54-70 in-lbs

to convert from inch to foot pounds just divide by 12

Rear cover gasket is easy. Unbolt, drain, clean and replace gasket; fill with proper gear oil. Pinion seal on the front of the differential, different matter. If its the pinion seal leaking, take it to a shop with experienced techs.

Three seals to check. easiest is the valve cover seal. Number and remove the 4 wires going into your spark plugs. remove 4 nuts holding the cover and replace seal.
Next easiest is the distributor O-ring. Remove air filter assembly remove the distributor cap, then the distributor. With the valve cover still off, loosen the 2 bolts that clamp the distributor down. Remove the 2 terminal leads going into the distributor (4 wire terminal/2 wire terminal) Mark the case of the distributor and the case of the head with one line so you can line it back up on reinstallation. remove the 3 bolts holding the distributor down. Replace O-ring. replace distributor, align, tighten the 2 bolts, then tighten the 3 bolts. replace terminal wiring and cap. replace air filter assembly. Replace valve cover with new gasket. Place spark plug wires back into their proper places. The last one is the oil pan gasket. Drain all oil and remove all blots holding the pan. drop the pan and replace the gasket. Put it all back into place. Do not over tighten the pan bolts as this will cause the gasket to deform, making it leak again.

Both are lean indicators. You probably have a vacuum leak from either bad injector o-rings, or leaky intake gasket, or a cracked vacuum line.

you can try removing the plug and seeing if it is a gasket or an o-ring that seals it to the radiator. You should be able to find an o-ring or a gasket that will work at your local parts store. If replacing the o-ring or gasket does not work than the radiator will need to be replaced. We no longer drain radiators with the petcock for this reason.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

head gasket problems can cause leakage of antifreeze into the exhaust through the cylinders and low antifreeze levels can cause an overheat problem due to a leaky head gasket.

A leaky water pump can do the same thing except you'll see a puddle of antifreeze from the o-ring not sealing right.

Blown head gasket seal can help with minor defects in the head gasket seal but not major leaks.

It may be worth the cost to try a head gasket seal solution before replacing the head gasket which is a major procedure.

ask a question. White, blue, black? its most likely steam on this new of a car. nothing to worry about. if blue, its burning oil, blue on start up is leaky valve seals, black on startup is leaky injectors, real white smoke (tons will come out) not steam, is blown head gasket or cracked head/block