THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR YEARS,IT STARTED WITH IT NOT WANTING TO START WHEN I MADE A FEW STOPS,ENGINE WAS HOT. NOW IT DOES IT WHEN IT'S COLD & HOT . THE STARTER,IGNITION,COMPUTER,FUEL REGULATOR,& SOME OTHER PARTS HAVE BEEN CHANGED & I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM.ANY IDEAS WHERE TO LOOK NEXT WOULD BE GREAT.

Unfortunately for some personal reason, you chose
to use your vehicle, knowing the coolant was being lost.
You should have have it checked out when you first
noticed any problem & now you have run the motor
low on coolant,overheated every fluid
The cause!! Could very well be you have a bad head
gasket & not thinking you had a serious problem
Now you do & it will be an expensive repair,involving
fees for testing, to find the issues & no way to know
the possible damage to the engine & especially the
cylinder head,to the point you may need a complete
reman motor, if the damage is bad enough to make that the best solution
Unfortunate, as I consider a 2006 a fairly new vehicle,especially
if you bought it new.
Lesson learned the hard way
Fluids start to go away,stop using it
Don't change Transmission & Power Steering
Fluids every 3 years-they will fail,fluid breaks down
& no one changes them
Don't change motor oil every 3 to 4,000 miles,
other issues on some vehicle. that's 4 to 5 times
a year,alot of your time & expense,but it has to be done
on all vehicles,brake fluid every 2 years or more rust,
& moisture in that system & big repair bills.
You could have a bad thermostat stuck closed or an
easier to solve & less expensive repair to make,but you
cooked that motor,so be aware of that

You would need to find out if the compressor continues to run when the cold air stops.

That sounds like a battery issue. Batteries have whats called CCA (cold cranking amps) it is the main thing to pay attention to. This is a measure of how much current the battery can provide at 0 deg F. Batteries work better when they are warm, so the colder it gets, the less current it can provide.

Starting an engine requires a lot of current, over a very short time. Meanwhile, cold engines are harder to start, requiring more power to get them going. So look at your battery and its CCA and since u said u bought the car a few years ago. You probably didnt replace the battery yet have u? Batteries usually have a life of 4-6 yrs only. Hope this helped

Personally I woulod get rid of any van,I wouldn't take
a brand new on for free

I think you have you know we can't guess at much & you
most like have the start of a head gasket issue

The transaxles on those are the worst ever made,the failure
rate is real bad

Have it diagnosed & don't get put any money into it

It's a van,15 years old,Ford Product with issues

You got nothing going there

long post.
ill reduce it for you.
misfires. (is RPM below 700 then misfire can be normal) for idle speed controls dead.
ISC the isc controls speed, of idle,.
mine stuck like zillion times, in 400k miles. endless.sticking
mine was a tiny gutless stepper motor drive ISC valve.
the cone valve is side gets nasty and sticks (
(PCV gases caused as seen on all engines)
i clean it.
the proof is the easy press of right foot easy raises idle back to 700rpm and engine stops misfiring.
ever get a tuneup this decade or running spark parts 500,0000 miles
for the new world record.?


now the tricky part of ISC, , fully explained in the SM serv. man.
the PCM learns its behaviors.
it learns all hot start settings and cold
so when you key on, it goes to the correct HISTORICAL spot.
if it can move there(sticks) engine car race.
or run too slow,
cold start would be worse, as hot isc is more closed
so if sticks there closed, the next cold start will be horrid
some newer manuals telly you to add 5% throttle if car is hard starting this is so common.

clean it. end story.
ISC

Your AC system is supposed to shut down if the engine is hot, as a safety device-make sure when the ac is running , the radiator fan is blowing-it may not be, caused by either a bad relay, blown fuse or a bad fan motor. Make sure your antifreeze is fully up to level, and if you haven't done it in the past 2 or 3 years, get the cooling system serviced with a new thermostat-cheap insurance, you do NOT want to overheat that aluminum engine, because if you do, it will be toast.

Since your blower is working and it is a heat issue,thats where we'll start,First thing is have you checked the coolant level in the radiator when engine is cold,make sure it is filled to top,next verify you have coolant in reserve ,Start your van and get it up to normal operation temperature,If your heat gauge on the dash works correctly it should be 190 degrees,Now lift the hood and locate the two heater hoses going into the heater assembly at the fire wall,Both hoses should be hot to hold on to,if both are hot and no heat inside your problem will be the blend air door in heater assembly.
if neither hose is that hot you need to replace the thermostat in the engine to get it up to 195 degrees.
if one hose is hot and one is luke warm then the heater core is blocked and to blame. hope this helps you.

Your cold start valve is not opening to assist the firing. It function is to provide extra fuel to ignite the all combustion chambers easily. When the engine doesn't have this extra fuel from the cold start valve, it will take a few times to get it going. The cold start valve is turned on at the time of starting only if the ECM get the signal from coolant temperature sensor saying it is at a preset level. When the sensor is bad, it can give a wrong value so ECM think that temperature is hot so not turning the Cold start valve. Replace this coolant sensor first, then the next thing is to check out the cold start valve.

have the starter tested because it sounds like a bad solenoid in the starter and it makes it get hot so it won't start

it sounds like the starter may be going bad