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2006 Buick Allure - ABS and TC warning lights stay on in dash

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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tripletauto
  • 1450 Answers

SOURCE: shows ABS fault on dash and ABS light stays on

Check your abs connectors they might have pulled a wire loose

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

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ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: ABS WARNING LIGHT ON VOLVO V70 1997

ABS light comes on with ignition then should go off when you start the car.
If abs sensor does not turn off after disconnecting the battery, then there is a real problem, a faulty sensor or ABS malfunctioning.
When the ABS led comes on immediately after you start the car and stays on usually is one of the relays.
The main one is called surge arrester relay, if it is faulty usually there have been an overvoltage.
There should be two more, usually located behind the black plastic cover of the ABS.
Testing and changing the faulty relay can fix the problem.

If light turns off on startup, and comes back on when you reach some speed, usually you need to check the wheel sensors. You test them unplugging the sensor located behind the wheel and testing it for continuity with a multimeter.
Use Haynes manual to find locations and specs of relays.
Contact a qualified mechanic if you cannot fix it yourself, problems with ABS may compromise safety of the vehicle.

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: TC,ABS and HILL DECENT WARNING

its the abs sensors which are part of the front hub/wheel bearing assembly get the lights reset by a dealer if it happens again u will need 2 renew one or both of the hubs £200 per side tho!

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: warning lights ?

Excellent article on the ABS problem by John Robison at RoversNorth ..... 
 
Welcome to the techie column for the Fall edition of 
the Rover News. In this column, we’re going to look 
at some of the common problems with the antilock 
brakes on Discovery II models. The Discovery II electronic 
braking system, called SLABS (self leveling anti 
lock braking), is made by Wabco of Germany. Wabco 
is a subsidiary of American Standard, a company better 
known to the public for toilets than brakes. In the 
automotive field, Wabco specializes in braking and 
suspension systems for trucks. According to the company, 
two out of three commercial vehicles with 
advanced braking systems are equipped with Wabco 
products. 
The Land Rover system includes four-wheel 
antilock braking, hill descent control, and four-wheel 
traction control. The SLABS control unit also controls 
the self-leveling suspension, if the vehicle has that feature. 
The Discovery air suspension is also a Wabco 
product. As an aside, Wabco air suspension is also 
found in the new Audi A6 and the Mercedes CLS. 
One of the most common ABS questions I 
hear is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction 
Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on? 
All three of those systems share a common set of 
core components. The wheel speed sensors, the hubs, 
the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all 
three systems. So a fault in any one of them will cause 
a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have 
a fault that would only disable one of the three systems. 
99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are. 
To see what’s wrong, you will need to connect a 
Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems 
are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner 
won’t talk to them. At Robison Service, we use the T4 
or Autologic tools for this work. 
The most common faults are wheel speed 
sensor faults. The wheel speed sensors in a Land 
Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed 
wheel that’s a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of 
the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor 
whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and 
whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts 
to more than 5 volts. 
If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are 
two paths to repair. The first is to replace the entire 
hub on the affected corner. This is the approach 
favored by dealers because the toothed wheel – called 
a reluctor ring – and the actual sensor are both part 
of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or 
corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel 
bearing. The only way to service it is to change the 
hub. 
As of this writing, hubs (front-RND646 / rear-RND694) 
cost around $400 and take about three hours to 
change. 
The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly 
easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you 
should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged. 
The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing 
gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion. 
That’s especially true for Rovers that run on beaches. 
If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the 
hub has any free play at all – you need a complete 
assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to 
fix the vehicle by changing the sensor (front-RN292 / 
rear-RNH293) alone, a $100 part that’s less than an hour 
to swap. 
The path you choose should be determined by 
examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole. If the 
hub looks good, there’s an “8 or 10” odds that a sensor 
alone will fix your problem. 
Every now and then you will see a Rover that has 
wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS 
sensor and body. Always pull it apart and look for 
corrosion. 
The next common fault in these systems 
is called shuttle valve failure. The shuttle valve 
is a part of the brake modulator – that big thing in the 
location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator 
incorporates the functions of an ABS servo and 
a brake master cylinder into one unit. 
If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see 
the three warning lights on the dash and there will be 
one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure. 
Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these 
faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they 
are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or 
grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and 
cables, your trouble is probably in the modulator. 
Until now, this problem was addressed by 
replacement of the brake modulator (RNH082). That’s a 
$1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure 
produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover 
finally listened up and developed a fix. 
As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle 
valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to 
remove the modulator and flip it over to install the 
valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, 
replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes 
three hours or so. 
This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement 
over the former method of addressing this problem. 
The part number for the repair kit is (SW0500030). 
If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask 
for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation 
instructions. 
Another common problem is a mushy 
brake pedal. In my experience, the only explanation 
for a mushy pedal is improper bleeding procedure. 
Bleeding a Discovery II takes two people and the Land 
Rover test system, and it takes the two of them a bit 
over half an hour. You need the tester to operate the 
pump and valves to make sure all the air is purged 
from the modulator. 
If you are paying for this service, expect a labor 
bill in the range of one and a half hours and $20-30 of 
brake fluid. If you are not at a dealer, make sure they 
use the correct Castrol LMA fluid. Don’t even start this 
process unless the shop has a tester to run the pump 
and valves. You could bleed brakes in the field without 
one in an emergency, but there is no way to get a 
really good pedal without cycling pump and valves. 
There is no shortcut for this job. You need two 
people and the Land Rover tester. 
We see quite a few stop lamp circuit 
problems. The usual way this problem manifests 
itself is a truck that won’t shift out of park. Discovery 
II models have an interlock that prevents shifting out 
of park unless the brake is pressed. So, if the brake 
light circuit fails, the car won’t go into gear. 
If that happens to you, the first step is to check 
the stop lamp fuse. We’ve seen several trucks where 
the stop lamps were fitted wrong, or the contacts corroded, 
and the fuse blew. Also check the trailer connector, 
if your Rover has one. A short there can pop 
fuses. 
If the fuses are good, you should check the stop 
lamp switch. It’s located above the brake pedal. If 
you are stuck somewhere, it is possible to get out of 
park by jumping the switch temporarily with a paper 
clip. 
Finally, you should check your Rover to 
see

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

bunnydawg
  • 5158 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Buick Allure headlight burnt out

i believe that plastic plate is a clip that holds the socket in... try sliding it sideways to remove it... careful not to drop it...

Robert

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Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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Your abs light is more than likely caused by the hub assembly/wheel bearing sensor on the front wheels. I would take to autozone to see if they can do abs check.

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Anti lock brake system light comes up when there is issue with car brake systems. It can be low brake fluid or faulty ABS fuse or its issue with brake system or assembly. Your vehicles brake system needs inspection.


To troubleshoot these issues, I suggest you to refer the help links provided below. There are direct links with accurate solution, for these specific issues.


Click the link below and follow the procedure: ------


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2 Answers

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There are no dummy lights on a vehicle

Any light you get on your dash is a warning to
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Almost every time your get any light you have a
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away until the car is repaired

The ABS & Traction Control System is explained in your
owners manual & any repair shop can diagnose those issues

The system should no be temp sensitive unless the electronic
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1 Answer

Abs and traction control dash lites come on and off at various time..sometimes never come on


Your abs and traction control lights should only come on when you start to slide while breaking(ABS), and when your wheels spin in place when excelerating(TC). If those 2 things don't happen, which with some people they never do, you should never see the lights come on. Only when those mechanisms are in use do the lights come on. And they will always flicker as that is what abs and tc are, intermitant surges to break up the constant. ABS does this for obvious reasons...anti lock break, so when you slide, the abs "taps" the breaks in short bursts so they don't lock up. TC "taps" the exclelrator when it slips. Those "taps" are what trigger the lights on your dash, which is why they flicker and don't stay on.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

ABS LIGHT AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT STAYS ON


ABS = Anti-lock Brake System.
TC = Traction Control System (Engine Control Module).
If the ABS lights on the dashboard permanently the ABS system is faulty. You must access the ABS & TC Electronic Control Units (ECU) memory for pull out all DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes), using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car. Then you will be full informed about bad pieces (e.g.: front right wheel abs sensor interrupted, ...). After bad pieces replacement you will be able to erase all faults memored by ABS ECU, in other words reset the ABS system and turn off the warning lamp on dashboard.

I suspect bad brake pedal switch, but you should scan the ABS & TC ECU's.

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1 Answer

ABS & Brake warning lights turn on


it is possible but its also possible you have a wheel speed sensor acting up. you would have to have it scanned for codes

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