Question about 2001 Ford Windstar

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Windstar 2001. On the way to the store the car stalled in the street. Will not turn over. Just clicks. [190k miles] Here's a summary of what I have done so far: 1) Charged battery; then removed it (Jan 2009) and had it checked. Still good. 2) Replaced the starter. Still just clicks. Will not turn over. My wife says it didn't make any funny/loud noises when it 'stalled like running out of gas' [but there is half a tank of gas]

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  • stanHetrick Aug 24, 2010

    How do you 'Check' a ground cable?

  • stanHetrick Aug 24, 2010

    My wife was driving. Don't know. There are lights on due to 171 & 174 codes but that shouldn't make it stall.

  • stanHetrick Aug 24, 2010

    Re. Battery: When I got there the flashers were on, the dome light worked & the electric seat adjusted back. Made me think it was not the battery [but what do I know ;)

  • stanHetrick Sep 01, 2010

    Correct. The engine has frozen. Not the starter.



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Did the battery light come on prior to the stall or guage drop below 14V? If the alternator quit charging it will run on the battery alone for a bit then just spit and sputter a bit then stall out completely. May want to check to positive cable to at the battery and starter. Also check the negative cable at the battery and where it grounds to the engine block.The clicking seems to indicate a poor connection. Let me know what you find will help as much as possible.

Posted on Aug 24, 2010

  • 10 more comments 
  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Aug 24, 2010

    Check the ground cable for corrosion and if possible make sure the bolt that holds the cable to the engine block is tight and also at the battery. I was wondering if the battery light may have come on prior to the engine stalling this would indicate the alternator going out and allowing the vehicle to solely run on its battery till the the battery was too low to to operate the vehicle. When trying to start the vehicle do the lights flicker or get very dim?

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Aug 24, 2010

    The codes 171 and 174 should be be that the vehicle is running lean on bank 1 and 2.Should not be effecting this problem.

  • stanHetrick Aug 24, 2010

    Will check the ground connections tonight. Q: If the alternator was the problem, why won't it turn over with a jump. Maybe not start - but it won't even turn over - which is why I replaced the starter first. Had charged the battery

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Aug 24, 2010

    I am thinking the alternator may have started the problem, It should crank with a jump.When was the starter replaced and last time battery was recharged?Just the other day I had a vehicle where the battery was so discharged that it wouldn't crank over even with a battery charger connected until I installed a new battery and put the old one on the battery charger to charge overnight.After i charged it out of the vehicle and reinstalled it the vehicle would then start.

  • stanHetrick Aug 25, 2010

    Continuing saga ;)
    1) Took out the alternator and ckecked it at Kragen Auto. Though it was making a slight noise when spun (so probably on its last legs) it 'Passed' the bench testing.
    2) Bought a Volt meter (at Radio Shack $20) and ;

  • stanHetrick Aug 25, 2010

    (continuing) a] battery had 12.65 V; b] resistance from the disconected negative battery cable to ground was .000.
    Started checking fuses

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Aug 25, 2010

    This is a long shot but have you tried to turn the engine over manually at the crankshaft try this with the belt off? Would try this before trying anything else just to make sure the engine itself has not locked up. The resistance measurement is perfect on the ground wire. If the engine will turn over manually would try either tapping on the starter with a hammer while someone is cranking to see if it's engaging or possibly jumping the terminal at the starter to see if it will engage. Also if the belt is still off turn all the pulleys on it to make sure nothing else locked up such as the ac compressor power steering. On some vehicle this will prevent startup and just click.

  • stanHetrick Aug 26, 2010

    How hard should it be to turn over?
    The other pullies moved easily.
    The fly wheel fit a 13/16. Used my 1/2 inch ratchet/braker bar - which is 15 inches long. Nothing.
    Added a 12 inch piece of pipe for 2 feet of leverage and got it to move one click at a time.
    Should it be that hard?

  • stanHetrick Aug 26, 2010

    The other pullies moved by hand.

    But, how hard is it to turn the crank shaft mannually?

    Used a 13/16 - with my 1/2 inch ratchet/breaker bar. 15 inches long - would not budge.
    Added a 12 inch cheater pipe and got it to move just slightly - I think. Now I was lying on my side, but 2 feet of leverage is a lot.

    Should it be that hard?

    Would not

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Aug 26, 2010

    No it shouldn't be that hard when compression builds up you get resistance but your ratchet and cheater bar should have definitely moved it.No question about that.

  • stanHetrick Aug 27, 2010

    To turn CRANK manually does the shifter need to be in NEUTRAL?

    Will it work if is in park? I had it in park.

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Aug 27, 2010

    Either park or neutral if you chose neutral make sure to chock the wheels.



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