Question about 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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I have a 95 ford ranger 4x4 extended cab 4.0 l manual tranny trying to remove the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder which is a quick disconnect model. do i need to release the pressure from the hydraulic line first or what, I have tried everything and nothing works. i do have the tool that is a flat bar that looks like a tuning fork but i believe that is for the slave cylinder that has the clip style ( i have the quick disconnect style ) please help

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  • 129 Answers

You'll need to go to your local garage to see where you can locate a quick disconnect kit closest available to you.

Posted on Jun 14, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Removal of slave clutch master cylinder

The hydraulic cylinder is in the bell housing. When you separate the motor and tranny, you will see it as a unit with the throw-out bearing. Take the hydraulic line off before you start. You will have to bleed it when you are done.

Posted on Aug 13, 2008

  • 50 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch

have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

warlock61
  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: NEED THE FIRING ORDER FOR

1-4-2-5-3-6

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

nightwolf364
  • 48 Answers

SOURCE: Stuck in 5th gear

That just recently happened to me. If your stick wont move into any of the gears, then you need a clutch. But if you can shift into the gears but dont go anywhere, then you need a new transmission.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: Drive shaft for 1988 Ford Ranger extended cab

I have a '88 Ranger XLT extra cab 4X4 w/auto tranny (2.9L V6) that had a 2-piece driveshaft on it. After adding a 4" suspension lift, there was a strong vibration whenever I took off from a dead stop. I replaced the drive shaft with a beefed up 1 piece custom built by a shop specializing in drive shafts. The truck no longer had any vibration, and it hooks up immediately on exceleration. I found the shop on Ebay advertising drive shafts. All I had to do was measure the length from the transfer case/Tranny to the rear differential. The length of the new drive shaft allowed me to adjust almost 3/4" so all I had to do was get it close. I also took close up pictures so the shop could match up the correct flange on both ends of the driveshaft. The last thing I had to do was flip the crossmember brace so it wouldn't interfere with the new drive shaft.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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The hydraulic cylinder is in the bell housing. When you separate the motor and tranny, you will see it as a unit with the throw-out bearing. Take the hydraulic line off before you start. You will have to bleed it when you are done.

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