Question about 1992 Pontiac Grand Am
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1999 GMC Sierra brake problem
When you change the master cylinder it is best to gravity bleed first, then proceed to the pedal technique.
Gravity bleeding is when you just open the valve and let gravity pull the fluid down.
Keep in mind you must "prime" the master cylinder first before installing it, did you do that?
Priming the master cylinder is where you put it in a vise gently, you then take apaptors and screw into the outlets, then take tubes from the adaptors back into the resoirvor. You fill the resorvoir up with fluid and take a 3/8 extension for a socket and push the piston in and out slowly until there are no more air bubbles.
After this procedure you gravity bleed the brakes, then go on to the pedal technique.
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
SOURCE: Is the brake booster going out?
Let me know what you find out. I get the same whoosh/pedal travel, and at this point have NO braking at all. I am also losing fluid nearly as fast as I can put it in if I use the brakes, but I can't find where it's coming out. I even drove on clean snow and don't see any fluid tracks...
Oddly enough if you are going to do it yourself, gmpartsdirect seems to have the best prices for OEM parts.
I am assuming that my rusted/pitted brake lines have failed me. Aaahhh the old money pit.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.
Posted on Apr 12, 2009
Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!
Posted on May 15, 2009
SOURCE: spongy brakes
Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
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