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My car stopped while driving before that though had a misfire in the engine and loud knock. Could this all be caused by the ignition module?

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Check engine light began flashing, engine runs rough

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May 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Knocking rattling noise from engine appeared while driving loss lil power running but loud knocking in engine

You didnt state vehicle however if the engine knocks the knock sensor will back off the timing thinking its detination not an actual knock if its knocking loudly stop driving it, something is going to let loose

Oct 06, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer


Error Code: P0301
Cylinder 1 - Misfire Detected
Possible Cause:
Ignition system.
Fuel injectors.
Fuel pressure.
Running out of fuel.
EVAP canister purge valve.
Evaporative emission system.
Low compression.
Base engine problems.
Engine control module (ECM).

Error Code: P0302
Cylinder 2 - Misfire Detected
Possible Cause:
Ignition system.
Fuel injectors.
Fuel pressure.
Running out of fuel.
EVAP canister purge valve.
Evaporative emission system.
Low compression.
Base engine problems.
Engine control module (ECM).

Error Code: P1300
Description: Random Misfire

Possible Cause:
As above.

Jan 22, 2014 | 1996 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Codes p0171 p0303 p0325 car missing

p0171 = fuel system too lean, this means vacuum leak or faulty oxygen sensor

p0303 = cylinder 3 misfire

p0325 = knock sensor malfunction.

p0303 and p0325 - i can see these working together, if a cylinder misfires, it will cause the knock sensor to trip. I would lean towards the coil and or ignition module, along with a faulty oxygen sensor.

Dec 08, 2013 | 2000 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

While driving the car runs fine, but when stoping at a stop it idles rough and try to cut off. pulled code gave code p0325. I changed the knock sensor but still gets code p0325, and car still misses at...

Hi Thomas,
We have a couple different issues here.
First, your Maxima is either NOT a 1995 model, or it is a very late 1995 model that "thinks" it's a 1996. The reason I say this is because a 1995 model Maxima is NOT OBD compatible and is not capable of outputting "P-codes" to a generic OBD scanner.
Those Nissans that were claimed to be OBD compatible in the late 1995 model year only output certain codes. To find out the rest of the story, you still need a scanner that has software capable of accessing the engine computer through the Nissan-2 connector (usually in the fuse block area).
Then you need to understand about Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0325.
This code does not necessarily mean that you need a new knock sensor. I think you will be a little less confused if you know the facts. What you need to know about ALL fault codes is that they NEVER tell you what parts to replace. Fault codes only tell you that the computer has a problem with one of the many circuits and systems that it monitors. The fault code will tell you which system is failing or which circuit is failing. They DO NOT tell you what is wrong with the circuit or system that it is reporting. The person diagnosing the vehicle is supposed to figure that one out.
Most people think that "diagnostics" means plug in the "magic box" and replace everything the computer tells you to replace. I WISH it was that easy!
Now that you know all of this, we can examine the code itself. What causes this code to set? ...I'm glad you asked. The computer controls the ignition timing in your car. The trick is to advance the timing as far as possible (for more power and efficiency) while not advancing it too far, which will cause pre-detonation (also known as "ignition ping"). Pre-detonation can cause serious engine damage, including burning holes through a piston.
Here is where the knock sensor comes in.
SCENARIO 1: The computer advances the ignition until the knock sensor "hears" an ignition ping. When this happens, the knock sensor sends a signal to the PCM to let it know that the engine is "knocking". So the computer responds by retarding the timing a little to stop the knock. When the knock stops, the knock sensor will stop sending a knock signal to the computer.
DTC P0325 sets when the computer has ******** the ignition timing as far as it possibly can and the knock sensor is STILL sending a knock signal.
SCENARIO 2: The computer also tests the knock sensor by deliberately advancing the timing too far for a few seconds to see if it gets a signal from the knock sensor.
So, P0325 can also set if there is NO signal from the knock sensor when the computer is EXPECTING a signal.
For scenario 1, the cause is usually a mechanical knock in the engine. Loose timing belts, worn/loose timing chains worn distributor shafts, bad pulley bearings, etc. The knock sensor does not know the difference between a knock caused by pre-detonation and a knock caused by a loose valve lifter (or other mechanical reason). The knock does not go away when the timing is ******** because the knock is not CAUSED by timing....code P0325 sets.
For scenario 2, the cause is usually either the knock sensor itself or a problem with the wire between the knock sensor and the computer or the knock sensor is not grounded properly. These things will cause the knock sensor to not be able to get a message through to the computer....code P0325 sets.
Now, the misfire at idle is a whole other issue. The computer will default to base ignition timing settings if there is a knock sensor fault. You may notice a little loss of performance, particularly during heavy acceleration, but there is NO WAY that your knock sensor is the CAUSE of ANY misfire - especially not at idle. However, it is VERY possible that whatever is causing the misfire could also be the cause of the knock sensor code.
Basically what I am saying here is that you need to put the knock sensor problem "on the back burner" until you find out what is causing your misfire. Unfortunately, misfires can be cause by a LOT of different things ranging from a bad spark plug to a cracked cylinder head or worn-out piston rings. The misfire simply has to be diagnosed using the proper procedures to avoid replacing a bunch of things that will not fix the problem.
With all that said, WHEW! I hope you got through all that!
The older Nissans are notorious for the distributor shaft bushing going bad and causing a loud "rattling" noise. The movement of the shaft can cause a cylinder misfire, and the rattling can cause a knock sensor code to set. I have fixed many of the Nissan V-6 engines with this same problem by replacing the distributor. This is the FIRST place I would look. If your distributor is not rattling, try revving the motor just a little and see if it rattles. If it does, replace it. If it does not, let me know and we will look elsewhere for the cause of your problem.
-Dave (dttech)

Nov 19, 2011 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

I have the p0306 code showing for my 2004 3.7 liter V6 Jeep Liberty. There is a loud knocking/popping associated with this misfire. I have changed all of the spark plugs and the ignition coil for...

but not one ASE mechanic i bet. they get it right.
so 306 means must misfire.
or better, weak Combustion on #6
so did your mech check compression on #6?
seems not. or vacuum for bouncing, seems not.
that knocking, did he check that first. it must NOT knock.
that knock is serious and will get worse, Id not drive it.
not me, engines are expensive why make it worse?

Jan 04, 2011 | 2004 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer


engine misfires are one of the few engine codes that will flash the engine service light. Usually misfires are caused by a failing ignition module, but you can have your vehicle's codes scanned for free at an auto parts store to find out what caused the code. If multiple misfires on all cylinders are detected, it pretty much eliminates a single bad spark plug or wire, but something that effects the entire ignition system, such as a module or pick up. Hope you figure this out!

Apr 22, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Acts like the knock sensor is bad. engine misfire on multiple cylinders.

The knock sensor will give you poor accelleration only when trying to drive at first when cold & the same when the engine is hot. If you have a misfire it will be something else causing that. A weak coil, Timing belt, a waek ignition module, & so on.

Jan 22, 2010 | 2003 Dodge Neon

2 Answers

Cobalt engine misfires

I can think of a couple of possible things to check.

When is the last time you put in new spark plugs? Ever? Check them. The problem may simply be worn out spark plugs. Likewise, a bad spark plug cable could cause misfires. Yet that is rather unlikely considering your car's low mileage.

Check the connections of all of the rubber vacuum lines which are attached to the top of the engine and which then are attached elsewhere. A vacuum leak due to loose fitting connections can make it hard to start the car. Likewise a vacuum leak can also cause the lean fuel code since the intake manifold no longer generates as strong of a vacuum as it should.

Virtually all cars have a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve located somewhere on the cylinder head cover. The big rubber grommet around the PCV valve is a common cause of vacuum leaks. Check that the PCV valve is making a snug fit inside of this rubber grommet. While you are at it, pull the PCV valve out of the grommet and make sure that it isn't stopped up. A stopped up PCV valve is very unlikely if you have been good about regularly changing your car's oil.

Check that the clamps for the big hose running from the top of the engine to the air filter housing are snug. And, of course, check that the air filter isn't extremely dirty or stopped up with debris.

It is possible that the mass air flow sensor is defective or has gone bad, but I highly doubt this since your car has very low mileage. Besides, a bad mass air flow sensor on any modern car should produce an error code.

A dirty fuel filter or a weak fuel pump could cause starting problems, and might even cause stalling and misfire problems -- especially when driving uphill. Yet I don't think that this is the problem. Just something to keep in mind as a possibility.

It is possible that the ignition module is either defective or has prematurely gone bad. Usually a good sign of the ignition module going bad is an increasing rate of misfires as the engine gets warmed up. Start the car and let it idle and warm up. If the rate of misfires increases as the engine warms up to normal operating temperature, then it is likely that the ignition module is close to completely giving up the ghost.

Finally, make sure that all bolts connecting the intake manifold and air bell atop the intake manifold are tight. Again, the idea is to get rid of vacuum leaks. This is unlikely, but worth checking. These bolts should never be tightened more than the specified torque values.

Well, these are just some common things which should initially be checked. Assuming that the spark plugs and plug wires are good and considering your car's low mileage, I am betting on either a vacuum leak or a failing ignition module. The latter can be tested by a mechanic who uses an oscilloscope to look for missing ignition module pulses.

Apr 20, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt

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