Question about 1993 Toyota T100

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I have to press very hard to get the brakes to work. If i pump the brake pedal the brakes seem to work better for that application, but I still have to press very hard on the pedal to get the brakes to work. The pedal also goes along way to the floor. I have bleed the brakes at all four wheels and the rear shoes are new.

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I suggest replacing the master cylinder assuming that you bled the system properly. You sound competent so it seems likely that the seals in the MC might be failing. That being said the brake lines can hold a lot of air :)

Posted on Aug 23, 2010

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My 1994 isuzu 250 brake went hard i replaced the pipes new booster new altenator with pump now brakes is better but when i am in traffic stop go after while no brakes please hel


no country stated, no car stated.
no engine stated, petrol or diesel.
below is my wild and useless guess ,its petrol.
Power assist brakes work off a base of manual brakes.
my wild guess 2 is KB truck, in Africa

this next line means with booster off line
(hose plugged, and pulled)
do the base manual brakes work or not.??????????????
this is first. and a big safety issue.
is this hard to understand.?
is this your first brake job?
how the manuals work 101:
using up to 100 lbs of (man) force on the brake pedal; can get you 600 psi force at the rear of the mc, (and 4 time more at front calipers)
the pedal is 6:1 ratio, (approx)
the MC piston to the slaves (ratio) the front caliper pistons are huge (4:1), and 6x4=24:1 total . 24x100 is 2400 lbs, from you foot to pads.
the cars stops great like this.
assist only lighten the pedal load, needed.
allows 50 lb girl to drive car, or my pet chimp.
or old skinny grand ma , to church...

these facts are why the brakes still work in manual mode.
The stopping distance does not decrease with boost.
(granny excepted) one could call this granny assist.
see, in a shop full of men we can stop the car
fast and same low distance.
my guess is your post is about assist only.
not brakes dragging
not braKES WEAK.


assist is a whole other set of issues, if only assist fails....see?578fb15a-cb47-464a-8d9a-701f0cf1da4e.jpg

Dec 12, 2016 | Isuzu Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Why is it hard to push on the brakes


The most obvious cause for a hard pedal is simply not enough vacuum. Check the brake power booster by pumping on the brake pedal while the car isn't running. Continue pumping until you've "bled off" the vacuum from the booster. Hold the pedal down while you start the car. The pedal should go down a bit more beneath your foot. If it doesn't, then you should examine the connection between the vacuum hose of the brake power and the engine's vacuum.
Replace the brake power booster if the connection's fine, which would fix the hard brake pedal problem.

It may be your calipers need replaced. Check them for signs of wear. Look at the metal spring where the brake pads sit.
Apply tension to the pad and see whether you hear a pop. If you do, the brake pad is moving too much on the bracket. Replace the caliper. This could help the hard brake pedal.

Jul 09, 2014 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Hard bake pedal


That is a Vacuum Problem, You need to Check the vacuum lines @ the Brake Booster, while car is running Listen for Air leak While someone Presses On Brake peddle, Either the Booster is leaking Or 1 of the lines

Jan 07, 2014 | 1992 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

My brakes feel like they arent going to stop.


This is most dangerous for you. I think that your power brake boost has failed, possibly due to a split vacuum hose. You can test this...
With the engine off, pump the brake pedal hard a few times. Then press down hard on the pedal and start the engine. You should feel the pedal sink perceptibly under your foot.
If this seems OK then your brake pads may be down to the metal on one or more wheels even though you here no noise. Remove the front wheels and have a look, as on p22 here (a later model).

http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/br.pdf

If the pedal feels spongy underfoot, and you can get better brakes by pumping the pedal vigorously, then there is air in the brake system, and it will need to be bled, as on p9

Dec 03, 2012 | 1988 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Brake pedal has alot of back pressure and car moves in gear.Have to press real hard to stop.How to check abs pump if has one where or brake booster or master cylinder?Don't know how to trouble shoot or...


The air seeping is a dead giveaway. Your power brakes are now manual brakes, but stiffer. The diaphram in the brake booster has torn and the hissing noise is the engine vacuum escaping (you hear it louder when you depress the pedal right?). Replace the booster and you will be fine. The brake lights probably don't work because you can't push the pedal down far enought to release the switch. Please rate. Thanks.

Sep 03, 2011 | 1995 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

Brake booster appears not to be working properly. brakes work ok for 1 or 2 apps then pedal gets hard. cannot hear any vacume leaks. the car does have a vacume switch in the booster


the booster is the problem, or a hole or leak in vacuum line to booster check the check valve also ! from manifold. heres the symtoms of a bad brake booster. primary symtom is a hard pedal on application, to test booster. pump brakes several times with engine off. to deplete stored vacuum. turn on engine with pushing slightly on brake pedal. you should feel the pedal fade away abit and then become firm. but not hard. if you feel nothing at pedal when engine starts, brake booster is not working! check the vacuum lines first!!

Jun 11, 2011 | 1985 Pontiac 6000

1 Answer

1992 F250 460 cid automatic 2w drive 85000 mi. Just replaced my master cylinder, all 4 brakes, and both front rotors. Afterward I blead the brakes and got bubbles out of fluid. Problem is : when not...


There is never a test or reason to pump your brakes

Accomplishes absolutely nothing.

There is no pressure in a braking system at all,
until you SLOWLY apply the brake pedal.

Then less than 1" off movement in the master cyl,
will develop 600 to 1800 lbs at the wheels

Release the brake pedal, the system goes to zero,
IT DOES NOT HOLD ANY PRESSURE

To answer your question

You not suppost to press the pedal hard
The saying goes--you apply the brakes,
not force the pedal arm and pin into the
vacuum booster, as though you want to damage it

When your driving what happens ?
You have higher manifold vacuum and
thus your pedal is normal,why the VACUUM
brake booster

Mar 31, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

99 ford expedition, abs light stays on, front brakes seem to be dragging


When was the last time you changed the front brake pads?
Try this:
Keep the brake pedal pressed down and start the car, after it idles for about 10 second let go of the pedal. If the light comes on just as you leave the pedal - try pumping it a few times, turn the car off and pump the pedal some more until it becomes real hard.
Then, keeping your foot to the pedal, start the car.
Idle for about 10 seconds, let go of the pedal and press it again rel fast.
If the light doesnt come on again - it means you have a leak of some sort or that the main brake pump should be replaced.

Good luck.

Jul 11, 2009 | 1999 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

I have Nubira 2000, I changed the brake pads but even though no use the brake effeciency is very less.


after fitting new brake pads you must "bed them in"
by doing a few high speed brake applications of medium to hard brake applications
say 80 km/h hit the brakes down to 40km/h giving a pause in between to let brakes cool down again
if pedal feels spongy or you have to pump pedal up to get a high brake pedal you might have air in brake lines
you should allways bleed brakes after replacement incase of air ingress into system

Jun 04, 2009 | 2000 Daewoo Nubira

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