Question about 1998 Chrysler Cirrus

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Brake pedal moves about quarter inch car doesnt stop good almost seems like they manuale no power car is running of course

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Booster is not getting vacuum or has failed. Listen for vacuum leak under dash to confirm booster diaphram has failed and/or check vacuum line from intake manifold to booster unit for cracks or leakage.

Posted on Aug 23, 2010

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1 Answer

Why does my car runs good but when I brake it fails to accelerate.


You could have a leak in the power brake booster. That could kill enough vacuum to cause the engine to stop. Plug the vacuum hose to the brake booster temporarily, and try it, while stopped.

May 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No break lights, 1999 villager


Check 20A fuse 51 in the fuse junction panel. This feeds power to the brake pedal position switch which, when closed, turns on the high mounted stoplamp and the rear park/stop lamps. The brake pedal position switch could be defective.

Jan 01, 2014 | 1993 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes


to bleed brakes is a relatively easy job for two people although it can be done by one without a pressure bleeder.NOTE keep brake fluid levels above minimum at all times during bleeding ( forgot to do it my self on more than one occasion and had to start over, trying to do too much at once) To do by your self you will need the correct ring spanner for bleed nipple, a clear tube that is a tight fit on bleed nipple ( long enough to reach down to floor) and a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it (glass jar will do it, is easier to see fluid level), Starting with the cylinder/caliper at rear furtherts from master cyl (longest brake line from tee piece) place spanner on bleeder then fit tube, placing other end of tube into container below level of fluid,. release master cyl cap/lid (no need to remove completely) undo bleeder half a turn, watch for fluid in clear tube. this should start to flow within 10 to 15 seconds (if bleeder isn't blocked with road grime clean if required), if fluid doesn't flow by it self (it should but) tighten bleeder then release again quarter of a turn, apply foot pressure to brake pedal, hold pressure on pedal till you feel pedal dropping towards the floor (half inch of pedal travel should be enough) ( fluid in container will stop air being drawn into brake lines when you release brake pedal) check clear tube for fluid/bubbles, open bleeder further quarter turn, if fluid has filled clear tube allow fluid to fill container a further eight of an inch, then close off bleeder (make sure no bubbles appear in tube whilst this is happening other wise drain more fluid till only brake fluid is visible in tube ) repeat process on opposite wheel cyl/caliper, then repeat process on front caliper furthest from master cyl , then the caliper closest to master cyl last. If two people are doing the bleeding the same clear tube and container are used,as is the order in which cyl/calipers are bled. One sits in the car and pumps the pedal until it has some resistance under foot (Whilst the pedal is held down) second person releases bleeder, first person keeps pressure on pedal whilst bleeder is released (pedal will travel towards the floor) when pedal has been depressed as far as it will travel second person closes bleeder before, the first person releases pedal and pumps the pedal again repeating the process until no air bubbles appear in clear tube at this cyl/caliper before moving to next cyl/caliper. good communication must be maintained to make this process hassle free

Jun 22, 2012 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Brake pedal has alot of back pressure and car moves in gear.Have to press real hard to stop.How to check abs pump if has one where or brake booster or master cylinder?Don't know how to trouble shoot or...


The air seeping is a dead giveaway. Your power brakes are now manual brakes, but stiffer. The diaphram in the brake booster has torn and the hissing noise is the engine vacuum escaping (you hear it louder when you depress the pedal right?). Replace the booster and you will be fine. The brake lights probably don't work because you can't push the pedal down far enought to release the switch. Please rate. Thanks.

Sep 03, 2011 | 1995 Mercury Cougar

2 Answers

1999 4 x 4 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 114,000 MILES. I HEAR AIR COMING FROM UNDER THE BRAKE PEDAL. IT STOPS WHEN I HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL. PLEASE HELP


disconnect and plug the vacuum line going to the brake booster under the hood. Now test for noise. If the noise has stopped then your power brake booster may be leaking.

Sep 09, 2010 | 1999 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

The gear is getting stuck... i press on brakes and when car is in park it is hard to put on reverse.. the car runs great...


In all probability the brake sensor on the pedal is starting to work erratically. This sensor sends a signal to the shifter gate, and the gate will not open unless the brake pedal is depressed. I had it happen to me, and the only solution until i replaced the sensor was to hit the brake over and over until the stop light worked (You can check it while looking at the 3rd stop light in the rear view mirror). If the stop lights work, the shifter gate should allow the shifter to move out of park. This sensor/ switch is located about 3 inches above the brake pedal, and it is easily recognizable by the cable attached to it.

Aug 31, 2010 | 2002 Honda Accord

1 Answer

1991 mighty max, 5 speed manual ... when going up a hill, motor seems to race as if clutch is slipping, only symptom, no noise, no smell. once truck has been run, does not do this .... truck has 94,000...


if it has a cable for clutch you need to adjust it. if its hydralic then the master cylinder may be not bleeding off properly when cold or slave sticks when cold. you need to measure pedal free play that is how far pedal goes down before resistance is felt there needs to be 1/2 to 1 inch or so free play to make sure that the release bearing isnt riding on the pressure plate [would be the same as riding the clutch] the 1/2 inch higher than brake pedal probem can be adjusted on the pedal stop but shouldnt be the problem. of course the clutch could be just plain worn out to.

May 18, 2010 | 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

2 Answers

Have to push real hard to make brakes work


HAVE THE CAR CHECKED FOR LOW BRAKE FLUID AS WELL AS THE BRAKE PADS....PROBLY NEED CHNGING

Aug 17, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

2002 clk 430. my car suddenly won't shift out of park. I had no indications, malfunction warnings that there was a problem prior to this happening. Also now the ABS and BNS malfunction warnings are...


its sounds like the classic case of the stop lamp switch going bad,you step on the pedal,esp sees a difference in the pressures at the booster,but doesnt actually see the pedal moving because the switch has gone bad,also causing the vehicle to not come out of park because this vehicle is designed to not come out of park unless the key is in position 2 and the brake pedal is depressed.if you really need to get the car out of park to get somewhere,on these models i believe there is a flap of plastic just below the d on the shifter panel that has a spring on it,just put a thin screwdriver(i.e.-pocket screwdriver) and least 4 inches long,press it straight down and pull it out of park-with your foot on the brake pedal of course)get this fixed asap-drop the panel under the dash,under the steering wheel-on the brake pedal assembly,theres a part where the switch goes,get the part before you start the job and youll recognize it right away,depress the tab and turn it clockwise to remove it,on the new switch,pull the detent switch all the way out before installation,put some type of bar between the seat and the brake pedal with vehicle on and adjust the seat to press the pedal down and keep it down,install the switch and release the pedal slowly to push the detent switch back it,once its all the way down,grab the pedal by hand and slightly pull it towards you,it should click one more time,now its adjusted,put the panel back on and your golden,just saved about $200 bucks in diag. and install labor-good luck bud
jess

Jul 30, 2008 | 2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK 500

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