Question about 2002 Volvo S80

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I'm over 120,000 miles now with my 2002 Volvo S80 T6 2.9L model now. Volvo recommends I change the timimg belt at 115,000 miles. Should change the whole Timing Kit or would just changing the belt be adaquate?

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Yes- anything that the timing belt runs on can throw the timing belt off and you will have bent valves. My water pump bearing failed and I had to rebuild the cylinder head- 2000 S80 T6- it was a pain. I had the water pump changed by a repair shop when I had the timing belt changed- but I think they just changed the belt and not the water pump. The pump bearings failed 60,000 miles later. I've put in two water pumps myself since then. It is not that hard or expensive to change the timing belt, idler, tensioner and water pump yourself. Buy a Vadis repair CD and combine that with info. off the internet. Buy good quality aftermarket parts and you will be fine and you'll know the job was done right.

Posted on Feb 07, 2014

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I am working on one right now.
The owner paid me to diagnose in Mid Summer 2006.And abandonded the car with me.
Yesterday I pulled the engine apart.
The timing belt remained in tact.The water pump was still good.The idler bearing was good.
The tensioner bearing failed - blew apartand allowed the timing to become out of sync.
Any of these bearings - can fail.Water pump,Tensioner,Idler,
Or the timing belt it self can fail.
He gave me the car.But it took him another year and a half to make the last payments on it - before he could send the title.***********.
There was piston/tag damage to all the intake valves.If he had going at highway speed -the intake cam would have become broken fromthe pistons slamming into open intake valvesand busting them up.
The motor block is alloy - not cast iron.The head bolts were galvonic bonded tothe threads holding the head in place.
Each one of them - acted as ifit was going to break the breaker barwhen the head was removed.
All but one of the head bolts came out.One snapped off - with 2" of thread in the block.
Requiring me to come up with a solutionto break the welded bolt in the block.
But I did remove it.
The oil dipstick o ring leaked.The rear main seal leaked.
So - rather than allow the engineto become destroyed again.
I performed the work to remove it.Replace the rear main sea.I pulled the oil pan and examinedthe lower end.I pulled the pistons out and examined the rings for carbon build up ...And reinstalled - no problem.
I ordered and installed a new water pump.Idler pulley, tensioner and timing belt.
And am weighing out whether to install12 new valves, hand lap all 24 of themand install new valve stem seals ...Or simply buy a used head that has nothad the timing damage it all.
Everyone of these has extensive damage.
The repair costs can be over $3500 -If you pay someone to do it for you.
Special tools are required to align the camsand resecure the upper cam support tower cover.
A person can not do the repair work without them.

A genuine Volvo repair specialist needs to beyour best friend ... or at least not your worst enemy.

Posted on Feb 19, 2012

  • rqcook
    rqcook Apr 12, 2014

    This engine has it's head configuration so that the lifters are not hydraulic. In the work do do the job. It is a particular method of using a special technique of measuring the valve bucket to cam lobe clearance - and then installing the correct measured bucket to create the proper clearances for each of the engine valves. @ $18 each and the wait time to receive the order from far off - It pays to run through the measuring process at least 2 times - and verify the readings that you record. That each measurement is the same as you recorded the first time. After the head is assembled and you pronounce the valve clearances set right - if you have a tick - It is a rather intense ordeal to remove it all again, clean up the anerobic sealer and perform the taks of remeasuring the bucket/shim clearances a second time. If you choose to do this job. It can be done. You must be sure that You check, measure, record the thickness of each bucket. and properly do the math to be able to identify what the needed clearances will be - to identify the correct bucket. Even when you do the math right. You will still wind up with some wrong clearances and have to do the process again. For some reason - Even taking your own measurements - Recording it all - and installing each new bucket where you measure it will be - By rechecking - you will find that the clearances are different that those which you have prcviously identified. Frustratiing when one must wait again for special order buckets to again make the cam to bucket clearances right. An expensive proposition - no matter who does the job. Take this caution to heart. The upper valve cover is anerobic sealed to make the cam supports - locked into place - no easy task - no matter who chooses to roll up their sleeves to tackle it.


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Why would you want to do the job twice,do the whole kit,same as clutch unit.(you wouldnt change one plug would you......)

Posted on Aug 23, 2010

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