Question about Mazda 323

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The car got flooded..all fluid and oil from car drained and replace, opened cylinder head and remove from block to remove any debris left and water left. Since we were already in that step, we replace the timing belt and adjusted timing, everything is ready to go. Car run and in a few minutes overheated, No corrosion in radiator.

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Try rebleeding the system. Maybe you still have a little air in there.

Posted on Aug 23, 2010


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Hi, I am working on my dad's 1993 Rodeo. He said that the only problem was the radiator. So he had some mechanic replaced the radiator. Somebody used the car, and it overheated. The radiator is empty...

Hello Alex...Anytime you have coolant in the oil and it's not the engine oil cooler it means the engine must be disassembled to locate the failure. The next options are not so pretty. There are three causes for coolant in the motor oil and all require engine dis-assembly....This can be tricky because often the repairs overlaps and it is difficult to tell which one is causing the problem....Always check the intake gasket first on V type engines. Then the cylinder head gaskets, cylinder heads, and finally the engine block...

Good luck and i hope this helps FixYa!

Aug 25, 2011 | 1995 Isuzu Rodeo

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While driving on the highway yesterday, my son's 2003 dodge durango over heated, the temperature gauge on the dashboard was not reading hot, we noticed a ticking sound from the engine, so I ask my son...

is the engine turning over? if not, then you may have expansion of the pistons which have lock them selfs in the bore of the cylinders and because you found the oil diluted with water you may have failed bearings, you may also have had water leak into the cylinder because of a blown head gasket creating a hydraulic lock. in this case remove spark plugs and try cranking engine if any water was traped it will come true the plug holes. Now if the engine is turning over when you try to crank the you may have blown head gasket and posibly a warp or cracked cylinder head. Seeing that you all had a faulty temp gauge or sending unit, that engine may have to be remove and torn down to find the extent of damage done. remove head first check for cracks,flatness and preasure test it.

Jul 19, 2011 | 2003 Dodge Durango

3 Answers

How do I remove the head? (Blown Head gasket)

prev.gif next.gif Cylinder Head REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.3L Engine
  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then drain cooling system into a suitable container.
  3. Detach the heater inlet and throttle body heater hoses from water outlet. If accessible at this time, disconnect the upper radiator hose from the water outlet.
  4. Remove the exhaust manifold. For details, please refer to the procedure located in this section.
  5. Remove the intake (camshaft housing for SOHC) and exhaust (DOHC only) camshaft housings.
  6. Unfasten the oil fill tube bolt/screw then remove the oil fill cap and level indicator assembly. Pull the oil fill tube upward to unseat from block.
  7. Label and disengage the injector harness electrical connector.
  8. Detach the throttle body-to-air intake duct.
  9. Tag and disconnect the power brake vacuum hose from the throttle body.
  10. Remove the throttle cable bracket.
  11. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold with the electrical harness and throttle cable attached and position the assembly aside.
  12. Tag and disconnect the MAP sensor vacuum hose from the intake manifold, then remove the intake manifold brace.
  13. Detach the electrical connectors from the MAP sensor, IAT sensor and the EVAP canister purge solenoid.
  14. If not already done, detach the upper (inlet) radiator hose from the water outlet.
  15. Disengage the coolant temperature sensor connector(s).
  16. Unfasten the cylinder head bolts in reverse order of the installation sequence shown in the accompanying figures.
  17. Lift the cylinder head from the engine block. Remove and discard the gasket. Inspect the oil flow check valve for freedom of movement.
  18. Using a suitable solvent, thoroughly clean and dry all bolts, bolt holes and mating surfaces. Inspect the head bolts for any damage and replace, if necessary. If using a scraper to clean the old gasket material from the mating surfaces, use only a plastic or wood one, NOT a metal scraper. Do NOT allow any debris to fall into the engine! To install:
  19. Place a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block, then carefully position the cylinder head in place.
  20. Sparingly coat the head bolt threads with clean engine oil, then allow the oil to drain off before installing.
  21. On 1988-89 engines, install and tighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as follows:
    • Step 1 - Tighten all head bolts in sequence to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
    • Step 2 - Using a torque angle meter, tighten the short bolts an additional 80°and the long bolts an additional 90°in sequence Fig. 5: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 1988-89 2.3L engine 86883121.gif
  22. On 1990-91 engines, tighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as follows:
    • Step 1 - Tighten all head bolts in sequence to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
    • Step 2 - Using a torque angle meter, tighten the short bolts an additional 100°and the long bolts an additional 110°in sequence Fig. 6: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 1990-91 2.3L engine 86883122.gif
  23. On 1992 engines, tighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as follows:
    • Step 1 - Tighten, in sequence, head bolts 1-6 to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm), 7-8 to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and 9-10 to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    • Step 2 - Tighten all head bolts, in sequence, an additional 90°using J 36660 or equivalent
    • Step 3 - In sequence, loosen each bolt one turn, then immediately re-tighten to the specified torque
    • Step 4 - After completing step 3 on all 10 bolts, tighten each bolt, in sequence, an additional 90° Fig. 7: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 1992 2.3L engine 86883123.gif
  24. On 1993-95 vehicles, tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specifications shown in the accompanying figures. Fig. 8: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence and specifications - 1993 2.3L engine 86883124.gif
    Fig. 9: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence and specifications - 1994-95 2.3L engine 86883125.gif
  25. Engage the coolant temperature sensor electrical connector(s).
  26. Connect the upper radiator hose to the water outlet.
  27. Install the intake manifold bracket.
  28. Attach the following electrical connections: MAP sensor, IAT sensor, and the purge solenoid.
  29. Using a new gasket, install the throttle body to the intake manifold.
  30. Install the accelerator control cable bracket.
  31. Connect the throttle body-to-air intake duct.
  32. Install the oil fill tube and level indicator.
  33. Install the camshaft housing(s).
  34. Install the exhaust manifold. For details, please refer to the procedure located in this section.
  35. Connect the heater inlet and throttle body heater hoses to the water outlet.
  36. Fill all fluids to their proper levels.
  37. Connect the battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

Sep 24, 2010 | 1992 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

What is the torque for head screws and timing

300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, 1998-2004 - Cylinder Head
Removal & Installation
2.7L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE Place shop rags in the openings to prevent debris from entering the engine.
    Negative battery cable Accessory drive belts Crankshaft damper Intake plenum, lower intake manifold and exhaust manifold Valve and timing chain covers Coolant connections for the cylinder heads
  5. Rotate the crankshaft until the crankshaft timing mark aligns with the timing mark on the oil pump.
    WARNING Be sure the head bolts 9-11 are removed before attempting to remove the cylinder head, the head and/or block may be damaged.
    Primary timing chain Camshaft bearing caps, gradually, in the reverse order of the tightening sequence Camshafts Cylinder head bolts in reverse order of installation starting with bolts 11-9, then 8-1 Cylinder head(s)

To install:


Fig. Camshaft bolt tightening sequence-2.7L engine


Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-2.7L engine
  1. Thoroughly clean and dry the mating surfaces of the head and block. Check the cylinder head for cracks, damage or engine coolant leakage. Remove scale, sealing compound and carbon. Clean the oil passages thoroughly.
  2. Place a new head gasket on the cylinder block over the locating dowels.
  3. Inspect the cylinder head bolts for necking (stretching) by holding a straightedge against the threads of each bolt. If all of the threads are not contacting the straightedge, the bolt should be replaced. New head bolts are recommended.
    WARNING Due to the cylinder head bolt torque method used, it is imperative that the bolt threads be inspected for necking (stretching) prior to installation. If the threads are necked down, the bolt should be replaced. Failure to do so may result in parts failure or damage.
  4. Lubricate the bolt threads with clean engine oil, then install them.
  5. Torque the head bolts in the sequence shown in the illustration, utilizing the following steps and tightening values:
    1. Step 1: bolts 1 through 8: 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
    2. Step 2: bolts 1 through 8: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
    3. Step 3: bolts 1 through 8: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
    4. Step 4: bolts 1 through 8: plus 90 degree turn using a torque angle meter.
    5. Step 5: bolts 9 through 11: 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

  6. Install or connect the following:
    Camshafts, timing chain and sprockets Water connections to the cylinder head Valve and timing chain covers Crankshaft damper and torque the center bolt to 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm) Lower intake manifold and intake plenum Exhaust manifolds Accessory drive belts Negative battery cable
  7. Fill the cooling system to the proper level.
  8. Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

Apr 11, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Intrepid

3 Answers

Oil staying up in the value cover, not returning to oil pan

remove valve cover and check drain ports on heads

Jan 17, 2010 | 1985 Cadillac Eldorado

1 Answer

Replacing fluids 0n 1996 300zx

radiator antifreeze: open drain **** on radiator and drain refill with water re plug and leave radiator cap off. start vehicle. watch when coolant drops or rises drastically as that is the thermostat opening. at that time re open drain **** and fill radiator with hose water at the same time. when water coming out is completely clear again turn vehicle off and drain radiator again. fill with antifreeze and water mix. 50/50

oil: jack up car, find oil plug, directly behind steering rack on oil pan. undo plug and drain oil into container. while oil is draining remove oil filter. wait for oil to drain completely then re-install drain plug and new oil filter(filled with oil) undo oil cap and pour in oil 4.5 quarts on n/a and 5 for turbo. tighten cap and your done.

brake system: dont attempt, use an experienced mechanic as the lines need to be bled in numerous places including inside the car from the abs module mounted behind the passenger seat.
easy brake system: individually bleed brakes while adding fluid until clear fluid comes out. (not efficient)

a/c: do not attempt unless you have an evac pump for ac systems.

clutch: same as easy brake except using the bleed valves at the slave cylinder and on passenger side fender well.

washer fluid: add fluid and squirt a little to make sure there is no air in the line

Jul 18, 2009 | 1996 Nissan 300ZX

1 Answer


I've had this same problem. First of all, replace your radiator (or coolant recovery tank) cap. If this doesn't fix the problem, check your hoses for leaks that could be letting air into the cooling system.

If the coolant is eruption is violent upon shutting off the engine, check your oil to see if you've got a chocolate milk like look to it. If the engine is completely cold, unthread the oil drain plug just a little until fluid starts to escape. It may be coolant that comes out, or it may be oil. Finally, rent a Block Tester from Autozone (It's $25.00 refundable upon return of the tester) and some Block Test Fluid ($8.99). Run the engine until on the high side of operational temperature with the radiator (or coolant recovery tank) cap removed. Insert the rubber cone into the filler neck and place the aspirator (bulb) on top of the tester. Squeeze repeatedly (yet slowly) for two minutes. This will pull air from the coolant into the tester and eventually the fluid will either remain blue, turn green, or turn yellow. Depending on the fluid, it will turn green or yellow. If it turns either color, you have emissions/combustion gases in your coolant. Unplug one cylinder head's spark plugs and repeat the test to see if that cylinder head is the problem, replug and repeat the test with the other cylinder head. This will tell you which side of the engine is leaking the gases into your coolant.

Positive (green or yellow fluid) test means that your head gasket is blown, or you have a cracked/warped cylinder head or engine block.

Jul 06, 2009 | 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport

1 Answer

I need a picture of the diagram of the oil system

Here is a link to what you need and the guide below

Item Part Number Description 1 — Valve Tappet Vent Gallery (Open to Crankcase) (Part of 6049) 2 — Valve Tappet and Camshaft Bearing Feed Gallery (Reduced Pressure) (Part of 6049) 3 — Orifice and Strainer (Part of 6049) 4 — RH Head Gallery Oil Reservoir (Part of 6049) 5 — Primary Main Gallery Pressure (Not Restricted) (Part of 6010) 6 — LH Head Gallery Oil Reservoir (Part of 6049) 7 — Orifice and Strainer (Part of 6049) 8 6049 Cylinder Head 9 — Oil Drain to Sump (Part of 6049) 10 — To Hydraulic Timing Chain Tensioner (6L266) 11 — From Left Bank Cylinder Block (Part of 6010) 12 6714 Oil Bypass Filter 13 9278 Oil Pressure Sensor 14 6881 Oil Filter Adapter 15 — Oil Pump Integral Relief Valve (Part of 6010) 16 — Bypass (Part of 6010) 17 6600 Oil Pump 18 — To LH Cylinder Head (Part of 6049) 19 — Oil Drain to Sump (Part of 6010)

Mar 07, 2009 | 1995 Lincoln Town Car

2 Answers

Car drivin through flood

What do I think the problem is. The driver is a moron.

How many computers do you think your car has? And you think they're water compatible? Tell your dad you saw advertising for a boat and then the bmw commercial came on and you got them confused.

Just for a quick test. put your laptop and desktop computer in the full bathtub, toss in your cell phone and see which one works after they dry out.

Then think to yourself how much time AND money you saved by trying to float the 540.

If you're lucky you liquid locked the motor and nothing else. this is where water from the flood seeps back in through the pistons from the exhaust and you try to crank start it and totally ruin the engine block by trying to compress liquid.

You car is a giant paper weight.

Jun 23, 2008 | 2008 BMW 528i Sedan

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