Question about 2002 Suzuki Aerio

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Suzuki ignis starts ok when driving suddenly cuts out will not restart immediately but if you leave for 30 minutes starts and is fine have checked coolant levels fuses air filter problem seems to be when engine gets warm temperature gauge only half way when problem occurs

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Extra the immobilizer

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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1 Answer

2001 ignis gl manual overhreating


Camshaft position sensor. I had the exact same problem. I changed it and it never stalled again.

Dec 18, 2013 | 2001 Suzuki Swift

1 Answer

My 2.0td vitara starts good, drives well, but stops like turning off key. Engine management light comes on, but if leave car sit for 5 minutes, turn key, and runs perfect . Stop car, restart, all ok , with...


i had the exact same thing happen to me with my first car, a 1966 mercury comet.

i replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the carburetor (twice), and finally rebuilt the entire engine! still, every time afterwards, the car ran ok, then would cut off again!

it turned to be just a $2 clogged fuel filter. i' suspect the same with your vehicle. after removing the filter, simply blow through it. any resistance, means it needs replacing.

Sep 03, 2013 | 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

My Audi A4 2009 makes a rattling noise on cold starts which resolves in less than 30 seconds. Dealer says its an air pump. This doesn't seem correct. The noise comes from the front of the care. Does not...


READ THIS (happy ending so far...):
audi a4 2L turbo quattro, manual transmission with 98,000 KM. Perfect conditions, no oil leaks whatsoever.

Left the car off for two weeks in very cold weather (-10C down to -25C). When I restarted, it started immediately but with heavy rattling noise due to camshaft adjuster not getting enough oil pressure. After 3 minutes of warming up (outside temp.: -12C) at very low rpm (below 2,000rpm), I start moving the car. Still hearing heavy rattle noise. As soon as I pass 2,000 rpm, I get a scary red warning, low oil pressure. Turn off the engine immediately. In 1 minute, I re-start the car and the engine lights check ok, so I drive in first gear super slow (1,200rpm) hearing the same rattling noise. After another minute, finally the noise all the sudden disappears and the car starts running just fine.

Called Audi dealer and they told me that in extreme weather conditions, I should warm the engine for 10-15 minutes if necessary before start moving.
Take away: luckily, I didn't screw up the engine since I was using it at extremely low rpm (easy to do with clutch and manual transmission) until the oil reached full pressure. I am pretty sure now that the problem was leaving the car off for such a long time in freezing weather. All the oil flows back to the bottom, and when I restarted it, the cold oil with high viscosity took a long time to reach all the parts of the engine, specially the camshaft adjusters that are actuated by using oil pressure. Next day, the car started at -9C perfectly without making any noise (as usual). Basically, the longer you leave your audi in cold weather, the longer you might hear the rattling noise until the oil reach full pressure inside the engine. My car took 6 minutes to fix it after couple of weeks in cold weather. This makes sense to me; in fact, in the past I only heard the rattling noise after leaving the car off for a couple of days in the winter.
So far, this has had an happy ending....

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Dec 19, 2010 | 2009 Audi A4

3 Answers

When i am driving my suzuki ignis (1.3,manual,2001)in a traffic(more than 45 mins)engine starts to miss(check light indicates) and it stops.cant start it for about 10-15 mins


I have a 2001 Suzuki Ignis and I have a similar problem. When I start the engine 5 beeps are heard and the hazard lights turn off and on with each beep. Also after I have been driving for about 45 mins 3 beeps are heard and the hazard lights turn off and on again. However my engine does not stop running. I have asked people about it and they think that it has something to do with a lose wire in the security system? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Oct 11, 2010 | 2001 Suzuki Swift

1 Answer

I AM RESTORING A T020 MF. I REPLACED ALL WIRING AND IGNITION SYSTEM AND REBUILT THE CARBURATOR, AND ADJUSTED IT TO SPECS. I GOT IT TO START RIGHT AWAY AND IT SOUNDS GREAT. HOWEVER, IT WILL ONLY RUN FOR...


Ok a quick check. When the engine cuts out and you go for restart it dies within 5 seconds. Next time put the ignition at position 2 (on but not starting) and wait one minute, then start the car. If the engine again runs for 30 seconds before cutting off this tells you its is a fuel problem. If the fuel is supplied slowly it fills the carburettor fuel bowls and when the car starts it quickly uses up these local reservoirs of fuel faster than they can be replenished. When you try to restart immediately there is only a tiny amount of fuel and so it used up almost immediately. By leaving the ignition on 2 for while it gives the pump time to fill the carburettor bowls and this takes a while longer to run down when the engine starts. Just before moving on does the car have a choke OK remove the low tension connection to the coil, basically remove any chance of a spark. Put a big old towel around the carb. Now remove the fuel line at the carburettor and put ignition on 2 to engage the starter pump. Listen to pump operation and look at the rate of fuel being pushed from the disconnected fuel pipe. If the flow is slow check on pump and filters.

Sep 13, 2010 | Ford F-100 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

99 buick lesabre , suddenly loses electrical power


scan car for free at parts place-it will give u a readout of possible symptoms--inspec plug wires and dist/ign area--also fuel pump may be aging--test for loose wires under hood--may want to get an aditional scan somewhere else

Apr 14, 2010 | 1999 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

1991 Mercedes 190 starts but cuts out when driving


You could have a defective fuel pump, when they go bad they can draw enough current to fry the relay contacts, so I would suggest you test how many amps the fuel pump is drawing, I have fixed this very issue of repeated relay replacements, it was always the pump was shot.

Dec 22, 2008 | 1984 Mercedes-Benz 190

2 Answers

Key code problem


There is a sensor in the ignition lock cylinder that recognizes the key, they do on occasion malfunction, it reads either a radio signal or a resistance value from a chip in the key, If there was a remote attached to the key then that may well be the problem as well, why until now it didn't cause any problem is a mystery, but I still think that is what caused this, my car has a key like that, and if the the attached remote is removed my car will not start.

Aug 08, 2008 | 2005 Suzuki Swift

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