Question about 1987 Nissan Pulsar

1 Answer

There is no spark out of coil to the spark plug battery has afull charge has gas starter truns so dose motor put a new rotor .

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Nissan Master
  • 8,269 Answers

Replace ignition module

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

No start, fuel pressure ok, spark at plugs


this sounds silly but have the auto store like advance check the starter, it's usually no charge for the test

Jan 28, 2013 | 1998 GMC Sierra

Tip

Engine electricals




3) Spark: From battery to spark plug

The battery is the source of stored electrical power in the vehicle. A voltmeter between the terminals of a healthy battery should read 12.5 volts. A reading of 12.2 volts indicates a flat battery and a reading of 10.4 volts indicates a dead cell (each cell beingabout 2 volts). A battery should be capable of sustaining high current, as needed by the starter motor when turning the engine over. When the car is running the voltage measured across the terminals shouldbe between 14.2 and 14.5 volts. The value is the voltage being supplied to the battery by the output charge from the alternator. THis charging voltage should not alter much when additional load is applied to the battery (head lights on etc).
When the ignition key is turned to the second position,often referred to as 'key on engine off', all car functions are powered up including lights and fuel pump. When the key is turned to position 3 many ancillary functions are temporarily interrupted to allow the battery to meet the extra needs of the starter motor. Electrical charge from the starter switch passes through a master fuse and starter relay before energizing the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid moves the pinion gear on the starter motor to engage with peripheral teeth of the flywheel. Simultaneously, heavy copper contacts are bridged by this same movement causing the starter motor coils to become energized thereby turning the engine over.
During the ignition process electrical charge passes through the primary windings of the ignition coil(s). The engine control unit (ECU), taking signalsfrom the engine crank position sensor, collapses the field of the coil(s) appropriate to the cylinder requiring ignition. As the field collapses the secondary coil windings discharge very high voltage through the high tension lead to the spark plug. The charge is so high that at the spark plug gap the charge jumps across with a spark. The compressed fuel air mixture in the cylinder is ignited by this spark.
Checking the spark process starts with the plugs. The condition of the removed plugs reveals a lot about the nature of the ignition within the cylinders. Dark sooty deposits indicate overly rich fuel air mix and glazed plugs indicate overly hot lean mixtures. Removing the plugs (with the fuel pump relay unplugged) and holding the screw threads to the cylinder head whilst turning the engine over will reveal the quality of spark. The spark holders and leads should be examined for discharge through the insulation to the cylinder head. Removing the leads from the coil should reveal sparks emanating from the exposed connectors. Failure to see sparks at this point indicatesa failed coil (especially if neighboring coils show good spark) or a failed crank sensor if all coils show no spark.
NEXT 1.1 MAF Mass Air Flow sensor

on Jul 15, 2011 | Mercedes-Benz E-Class Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Turn key to start and nothing happens. All lights are on, battery good. Doesn't turn over---nothing. Switch or starter or some kind of relay??? HELP!!!


For 1999 Buick LeSabre - but you took #1 off the list, so here's the whole "failure to start" list:

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Battery Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Distributor Cap Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
5 Inspect Ignition Coil Faulty Ignition Coil.
6 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
8 Inspect Starter Starter Motor Faulty.
9 Inspect Fuel Pump Low Fuel Pressure.
10 Inspect Starter Relay Faulty Starter Starter Relay
11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Motor Faulty Starter Motor
15 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke.
20 Inspect Distributor Rotor Distributor Rotor broken, burned contacts, or loose
21 Inspect Distributor Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

Sep 12, 2011 | 1999 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

I have a lot problems when i need to start the engine in my genesis 2.0 coupe why is this,,i took the car to the dealer but cant find a problem,they say battery is ok


You already took #1 off the list.
The national auto parts chains (AutoZone, Pep Boys, and Advance Auto Parts) will hook up a
diagnostic tool to your car to perform a Charging System diagnosis for free - its an easy
way to exonerate & differentially diagnose your Alternator/Battery/Voltage Regulator.

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Battery Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
4 Inspect Distributor Cap Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned contacts.
5 Inspect Coil - Ignition Faulty Ignition Coil.
6 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
8 Inspect Starter Starter Motor Faulty.
9 Inspect Fuel Pump Low Fuel Pressure.
10 Inspect Solenoid Switch Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch.
11 Inspect Relay - Fuel Pump Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Motor Faulty Starter Motor.
15 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat.
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The ECC.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke.
20 Inspect Distributor Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.
21 Inspect Distributor Rotor Burned Distributor Rotor contact

Sep 04, 2011 | 2009 Hyundai Genesis

1 Answer

I have a 1990 mitsubishi might max it wont run smooth unless you keep your foot on the gas and keep the rpms up a little bit and it wont drive cause it stalls everytime you try to move it. ive replaced the...


You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor.
Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.

Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are:
air filter
motor oil
motor oil filter
breather filter
fuel filter(s)
fuel strainer
PCV valve
EGR valve
spark plugs
spark plug wires
ECM or distributor cap & rotor
cabin air filter
transmission oil filter
transmission oil
engine coolant
check all vacuum hoses and lines

Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:

Priority Action Part Type -- Cause
1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil.
6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty.
9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure.
10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch.
11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive.
15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat.
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke.
20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

Aug 17, 2011 | 1993 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

1 Answer

CAR WILL NOT CRANK


I gave you more than you should need

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause.

b) We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive ).If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Remove the starter and have it bench tested to verify.
a) If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck

May 03, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Wont start even if i push her,toyota tercel has no spark


So your telling me that this car is a stick and you can't pop the clutch to start it ? Correct?
I'm gonna give you a list of thing to check, good luck.

a)Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
IN YOUR CASE I BELIEVE YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY UNLESS THIS ONE IS FAIRLY NEW.

Apr 29, 2010 | 1995 Toyota Tercel

1 Answer

I have a 1999 dodge durango,i replaced new spark plugs and new wires but the car won't start?


Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, neutral safety switch ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables, ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charge the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery is more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit.Do not forget neutral safety switch its on your brake pedal and once depressed it closes the circuit to the relay so B+ can travel to it . Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. IN YOUR CASE YOU HAVE NEW PLUGS AND WIRES SO IT WILL BE EASIER TO CHECK FOR SPARK.If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair .THERE ARE FUEL PRESSURE AND VOLUME TESTS DONE TO VERIFY IF PUMP IS DEFECTIVE OR NOT. IF WITH THE TESTING PROCEDURES I'VE GIVEN YOUYOU CAN NOT DETERMINE WHETHER THE PUMP IS DEFECTIVE HAVE A REPAIR SHOP DO FURTHER TESTING ON THE PUMP. THESE TESTS ARE A LITTLE DANGEROUS and a real pain.
Good Luck

Apr 29, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Engine dose not turn over-no spark from coil. replaced cap,rotor, plugs & coil


if it's not turning over, it sounds like a battery or starter issue. are you sure it's not cranking? since you're referencing the spark issue, i assume maybe you mean it's cranking, just not firing.

Feb 04, 2010 | 1987 Toyota Pickup

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

138 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Nissan Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76070 Answers

Phil Lovisek
Phil Lovisek

Level 3 Expert

726 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Are you a Nissan Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...