Question about 2007 Kia Spectra LX Sedan

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2007 Kia Spectra has coolant loss. Pressure test conducted of coolant system, no apparent leaks. Reservoir bottle has been replaced, radiator cap has been replaced, yet vehicle still uses engine coolant. If the bottle is filled to the "F" mark it will be almost empty within 300 miles, yet the Kia dealer cannot locate any leaks. The vehicle shows not signs of leakage, where is the engine coolant going?

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In this case i would suspect the water pump,it would not really show up in a pressure test ,put a paper liner under the car at night and see if any water shows up on it in the morning,if it is ok, then the water could be lnternal ie the engine is taking the water,but 2007 engine should not have this problem unless it has a very high more [simple] answer is the coolant leaking from a simple loose conaction and drying up before you see it ,but water leaves a trace so have a good look about the engine for that water mark,please rate this answer.adrian,,,,,,,,,,,

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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Let me know if you found a solution. my 2006 is in the shop for serious radiator issues that no one seems to understand. i had several of the same issue with empty reservoir level. please let me know if you have had any feedback.

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

  • Henry Oct 01, 2012

    Actually I have just now, 1 Oct 2012 looked at this site. I got a bit disenfranchaised with the site when they lead me to a place where I have to pay to get an answer. However, to the solution of my problem. Being as I was an old Army Chief Warrant Officer in maintenance I kept telling everybody to check the cylinder head. Not even the people at KIA would believe what I suspected, after all in their eyes nothing comes off the line less than perfect. Well guess what? Low and behold after fighting the local KIA people for 3/4 of a year one of their mechanics decided to take a close look under a high power magnifying lens and guess what he found. The cylinder head had microscopic holes in it that was permitting the anti-freeze to ever so slightly slip out the tail pipe. It was small enough that it did not even let an odor as anit-freeze should. The vehicle actually came off the asembly line with a defective cylinder head. Moral of the story is - not even the detailed tests which the dealership did caught this error, only through close observation by a sharp mechanic did they find this. Guess they could have saved themselves a lot of time and money had they just listened to an old Army Chieff Warrant Officer that did this for 20 years.

  • Henry Oct 01, 2012

    Further explanation on this problem. What this car also did when we first bought it was it would use a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. Then suddenly the car stopped using oil and began using the coolant. Now the only place oil and water could possibly meet is the cylinder head or head gasket. Since the dealership had already removed the cylinder head once to put a new gasket on, common sense should have told them to do a close inspection of the cylinder head. What really made me angry about this entire thing with the dealership and KIA USA is nobody wanted to do a close examination of the cylinder head until I persisted in bugging them and kept taking it back. When the car was using oil (from new) their answer to me was and I quote, "well it is a 4 cylinder and these 4 cylinders tend to run hotter so they will burn oil" also, "well we (KIA USA) aren't concerned about it unless it would use 3 quarts of oil in a thousand miles". That did not sound right to the old guy and that is why I kept bugging them for a soluntion. Turns out my persistence paid off, they replaced the cylinder head and it has not used a drop of oil or used any coolant since and that has been over a year ago now.



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Just completed 20,000K,s with my 2012 2.8 Colorado towing an 18ft. Van. We Used 3lts of coolant. No sign of any leaks or contaminants in the engine oil or trans. fluid. Is this usual ?

as the coolant heats it expands and the radiator cap lets off into the reservoir that fills the reservoir
as the coolant cools down the radiator cap allows the low pressure in the cooling system to draw coolant back from the reservoir
To need to add coolant indicates that the draw back process is not happening possibly from the overflow hose not sealing off properly and allowing air back in and not drawing from the reservoir
check the reservoir for cracks as well

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So the level keeps dropping in the reservoir? If you have to keep adding coolant to the reservoir, the system is leaking or losing coolant somewhere. Have the system pressure tested to find the leak. Is the reservoir itself leaking? When the level gets low enough, first the reservoir will go dry, then the radiator level will start to drop.
Here's how the reservoir works: coolant is under pressure from the radiator cap seal. As coolant heats up from hot engine, it expands, and pressure forces the radiator cap seal up, coolant is forced into the reservoir-remember the hot mark on the reservoir? When car is shut off, coolant contracts, creating a vacuum in top of radiator. This vacuum works to suction coolant back from reservoir into the radiator, keeping the radiator topped up, and coolant should now be at the lower cold mark on the reservoir. It is a closed, sealed system. The only loss of coolant will be a very small amount of evaporation from the reservoir. If coolant level keeps dropping, there is a leak somewhere.

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If you have a pressure reservoir I would replace the cap. When they wear out they will let the coolant out as you drive. Could also be a cracked reservoir. Fill it and cap it. Fill it to the top this time and start the engine. As it warms up, if coolant starts to come out the overflow. replace the cap. And if not you will have to hunt down the leak. If the car is not running bad, then you can rule out internal engine leaks.

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Remove radiator cap only for testing or when refilling system after service. Removing cap unnecessarily can cause loss of coolant and allow air to enter system, which produces corrosion.

The cooling system is closed and designed to maintain coolant level to top of radiator.
Remove radiator cap. The coolant level should be to top of radiator. If not, and if coolant level in coolant recovery bottle is at ADD mark, check for:
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Do you have a coolant reservoir? Does the coolant level rise as the engine warms up and lowers as the engine cools off? If so, the engine cooling system is sealed. If the system isn't sealed, when it is cooling, it can't draw coolant from the reservoir. Does the radiator have a radiator cap, with cold engine, remove the cap, can you see coolant level in radiator?
How hot does engine get in degrees F? There is your thermostat and radiator cap. Water boils at 212 degrees f atmospheric pressure. With a 16 lb radiator cap, it should raise the boiling point about 32 degrees. The boiling point should be around 250 degrees F. w/o any pressure, I would suspect it would boil over in a hurry.

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Did you install a new thermostat and make sure to bleed all the air out of the system when you replaced the radiator? If you didn't, or installed a Stant thermostat, replace it with a FACTORY OEM thermostat. Make sure the cooling system is bled by opening your radiator cap (WHILE THE CAR IS OFF AND COLD), starting the car and running the heater. Add coolant to the radiator as the engine heats up, until is at normal operating temperature AND starts spitting coolant back out.

Hope this helps,
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