Question about 2000 Buick Regal

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I cranked my car,drove it and left it runing when I returned to my car my wires were burning ,I cut off my car and the starter was still engaged

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  • ramonodds97 Aug 21, 2010

    My starter is staying engaged and my battery cable is sparking with my starter wires melting

  • ramonodds97 Aug 22, 2010

    That's the answer I was looking for,thanks

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2 Answers

You will need to replace the starter solenoid on the actual starter, it is connected to the top part of the starter housing and provides the current to start the actual starter motor. When it goes bad the starter will continue to engage after the car is cut off. Also replace all burned wiring with new wire

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_solenoid

http://www.ehow.com/video_2328097_diagnose-car-starter_s-solenoid-system.html

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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  • Buick Master
  • 2,050 Answers

From what you describe...
the first problem is that your wires somehow got loose and contacted an exhaust manifold or pipe. Then the insulation on the wires melted and possibly some bare wires contacted with eachother. If you repair the wiring and secure them, you might be good. You might have to cut out the bad wires and splice in new pieces, just use a good crimp connector (The kind that seal out water and corrosion) or solder and heat shrink wrap the connections to prevent future corrosion problems.

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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1 Answer

Can a bad starter relay burn out a starter


st people are familiar with fuses - they allow your car's electronics to work while protecting them from over-voltage situations. Relays are similar, but much larger and more powerful. There's a relay for most of the major components on your car, including the fuel pump, the air conditioner compressor and the starter.
Your starter relay is engaged every time you turn the ignition to run. Voltage is sent through the relay and if it has failed, it stops there. With a dead relay, the starter won't work and your engine won't crank. The relay is subjected to very high voltage when you turn the ignition, and this will eventually cause the contact circuit to burn out. It's also possible for the relay's energizing circuit to fail.
n terms of lifespan, your starter relay should last a very long time. Many drivers never have to replace theirs, but this isn't true across the board. Relays can and do fail at any point, including when the car is new. With that being said, starter motor failure is actually more common than a failed relay, and other problems can present similar symptoms, including a dead or dying car battery. f the starter relay fails, it's the same as if your starter motor fails in terms of what you can expect - you'll be stuck where you are until the relay can be replaced. However, there are signs and symptoms that can warn you of an impending failure and knowing these might save you some serious hassle. They include:
  • Starter will not engage at all
  • Starter stays engaged (creating a grinding noise)
  • Starter only works intermittently (usually when the engine is cold

Sep 29, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Put in a new battery, started car and drove home. Now I can't get car to start. Had starter tested and passed, have lights inside and tested battery to make sure it was good, still can't start car


#1 cause of your problem is a loose wire connection at the starter, or the connection is tight but dirty. Both will cause intermittent starts because not enough cold cranking amps are getting to starter to engage it but you are getting power to other systems. Clean and tighten and check all wires to starter for breaks or damage.
After that you may want to check for power at the start position on the ignition switch.


Hope this helps Mike

Jan 17, 2016 | 2005 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Starter will not engage


check all fuses. there are many for this circuit.
fuse 2 and 20 must be good.

no ! this is not and ASD function.
the starter is totally independent, (the EFI does not run the starter)

my wild guess is this as A/T slush pump car.
so as such has the PRNDL switch.
even IMMO unhappy allows cranking but cuts fuel and spark. via ASD

the Key switch sends 12vdc to the PRNDL
you try park or neutral.
you wiggle it, omg it cranks. PRNDL death deal (1million served)
this car has a starter RELAY, simple
12v to 2 pins, key on.
the PRNDL grounds the coil the relay closes, and the output 12v
goes to the starter solenoid.
there is no need to guess the FSM is here, read starting and schematics. bingo
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

see 8w-21-1 , the simple path there.

if the fuses are good
and you have 12vdc across the relay coil the PRNDL is good.
if the 12v is missing the PRNDL is bad.
assumes the ground to the PRNDL i good.

see 8 ways to crank here ,tricks, M/T rule on cranks....2 ways.
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html#tricks

i just hot wire the starter solenoid and that cuts the problem in half
at the get go.... no fiddling about.
it already failed jump starts. and battery is good and charged, so..
hot wire it. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, ok starter is good.
but key line is dead.. 1/2 the work is gone. fail path know.

Mar 05, 2014 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Starter clicks will not turn engine over


next is jumper cable jump start to good running helper car battery.
that cuts cause in 1/2 , 15min works.
car starts, your battery is bad, or not charging, running, or is only discharged. (left head lights on)
wont crank. now?\\
hot wire the solenoid, for cutting possibles in 1/2 again.
what transmission? in car?

see tricks here. (and the hot wire trick)
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html#tricks

Feb 15, 2014 | 2005 Honda Accord 2.0

1 Answer

Is it the fly wheel or the starter


If the starter is left in the engaged position ( trying to start the engine) the first thing to fail will be the pinion over-ride clutch and then the armature wires melt out and the starter is dead.. If it costs you a new starter motor that will be an expensive lesson for you to fix problems when they occur and not leave it for RON (lat-er -RON)

Jan 25, 2014 | Saab 9000 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Runs with key in crank mode


it sounds like the starter is sticking or possibly the ignition switch may be bad has the switch lost it's return spring? does it release from crank mode or is the starter staying engaged if the starter stays engaged it may need shimmed or replaced be careful of your electrical connections

Sep 18, 2012 | 1983 Chevrolet Camaro

2 Answers

Car ws misfiring and overheating, replaced spark plugs/wires. car was overheating replaced thermostat. These fixed both my issues, however before fixing the overheating problem the car after shutting it...


I wonder if the starter relay is bad. When Napa tested the starter they likely just put 12 volts direct to the drive. The motor it seems is fine but if the relay (attached to the starter motor?) is sticking or failed then you get your symtoms.
I suggest you pull the starter motor again and have them, NAPA, test the relay. You MAY be able to replace the relay only. It might be possible to clean it out or rebuild it, but thats iffy at best.
Good luck

Jun 05, 2011 | Ford Contour Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

It died. went to restart it and it would crank but wouldnt start. let it set overnight and it started drove it for a short drive. shut it offf and now it wont start at all. there was also a burning smell...


I have not heard of this problem on an 850, but my first suspect would be the crank position sensor (aka pulse generator). It is a thumb-sized sensor that plugs in to the flywheel end of your engine and has about a 1 ft wire lead on it. I can't tell you exactly where it is on an 850 because I have never had to look for it.
My first suspect for the burning smell you report would be a hot starter from cranking the car for a long time. Starters are designed to be cranked for only up to about 10 seconds at a time between cooldowns.

Mar 30, 2011 | 1996 Volvo 850

2 Answers

Starter starts while engine is running


make sure the battery wire from the starter isnt tuching the s wire on the silanoid and have the battery check

Dec 23, 2008 | 2000 Chevrolet 2500

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