Question about 1996 BMW 318

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Hi there air has got into the brake lines due to the brake master cylinder being run empty,added fluid, started the bleeding process no fluid pumped out of any of the calipers

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  • Master
  • 4,793 Answers

It is unusual for the fluid to go down so low.Start at the wheel furthest away from the reservoir and you pump down when a friend undoes the nipple and then, when just before the pedal gets down ,he closes nipple (do this as many times as needed for each wheel.)when all 4 wheels are done press real hard on pedal with engine running to see if pedal moves.....indicating a bad master .
keep the top res full at all times and do not reuse any fluid.

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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  • Master
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Inorder for fluid to leave the system.....their had to be a leak................It just doesn't just get up and go like the significant other. When you are bleeding make sure after 10 pumps that the peddle is held with a constent pressure of 25lbs until the bleed screw is loosened and tightened.After no air is visable on all fours you are beating the under taker...........Their is a sequance to follow but that depends if you overhauled the front and back at the same time.......Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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2 Answers

Need to know procedure for bleeding master cylinder and lines.


There is a special pump used to bleed the master cylinder first then after the master cylinder is installed you bleed the brakes and fill as you go it's a two-man operation

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake bleeding cylinder


Sounds like the master cylinder ran empty during the process.
Were you adding fluid as you were bleeding fluid out? If it ever runs empty, you bleed air into the system, and it takes a lot of bleeding to get it back out....You did add fluid as you were bleeding fluid out ...didn't you?

Jan 19, 2014 | 1998 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

1990 jeep wrangler bleeding breaks


Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:
  1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
  2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
  3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
    1. Master cylinder
    2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
    3. Right rear wheel
    4. Left rear wheel
    5. Right front wheel
    6. Left front wheel
  4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
  6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
  7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
  8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.


  1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
    1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
    2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
  2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
  3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
  4. Check the brake operation.


Hope this helps.

Apr 21, 2013 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake bleeding sequence for 1995 buick


Most cars are done the same way:
1: Farthest brake from the master cylinder (rear)2: Opposite side from the first brake.3: Farthest from the master cylinder on the front.4: Remaining brake.
BTW: I would advice using the traditional method of using a clear bottle with some fluid in the bottom and a clear hose running out of the fluid, through the bottle top and which can connect to the bleed nipple. When bleeding fluid, make sure the fluid in both the master cylinder and to the bottle is clean before closing off the bleed nipple. Then pump the brake after bleeding each brake and feel for any softness. If you feel softness after bleeding any particular brake, then you will know that you just introduced air into that brake line, and will need to bleed again.NEVER allow your master cylinder to become totally empty whilst bleeding as this will mean you have to bleed all air out of the total system and start again from scratch. This can be a huge pain!

Nov 02, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Air in the fluid master cylinder


Do you mean the brake master cylinder? As long as the fluid is at the full mark, and you have no air in the brake lines, it is fine. A spongy brake pedal and poor braking operation happens when air is in the lines. Air can get into the lines when the fluid in the master cylinder is very low, almost out, or when a brake line is pulled apart (like when replacing calipers). To get the air out, one has to bleed the brakes-starting at the rear tires-the longest run from the master cylinder-and ending at the driver's wheel -nearest the master cylinder. Opening the bleed valve at each wheel in turn and pumping the brakes will force fluid into the lines and push the air out the bleed valve. When done properly, all the air in the brake lines should be expelled, and the brake pedal returns to it's firm pedal and good braking efficiency.

Jul 10, 2012 | 1993 Toyota Supra

1 Answer

I have a 1994 GMC Serra i had a brake line that started to leak for the back brakes so i replaced the whole line from the front to the back and i went to bleed the brakes for the back i had a helper pump...


If you have replaced the line from the front to the back, there is a lot of air in the line. The proper way to bleed the brakes (for the average guy with no shop) is to;

#1, OPEN the bleeder screw,
#2 THEN have your friend push the brake pedal down fully to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN. Then you
#3 CLOSE the bleeder, so no air can enter the line from there,
#4 THEN have your friend let the pedal up after you have closed the bleeder screw.

Repeat this process untill you have fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. Remember, after your friend has pumped the brakes a few times, the fluid level in the Master Cylinder's reservior will
go down, and you need to refill it as the fluid gets pumped into the line. Do not let it go empty, or you will have to start all over again. Every time the brakes get pumped, the fluid will only go down the line a few inches, so you will have to do this Procedure many times, like 15 or so.

Once you get the fluid coming out of the bleeder screw, do the bleed procedure a couple more times, until there IS NO AIR left in the system and all that is coming out is fluid with NO bubbles.

You MUST do BOTH sides, right AND left of the rear, as there is only a single line to the rear, which splits into two above the axle, and now there will be air in both sides. Then, tighten the screw, top off the master cylinder, and you are done.

If you simply opened up the bleeder screw, and then pumped the brakes with it open the whole time, the master cylinder simply pulled air back into itself every time you let the brake pedal up, resulting in no fluid being pumped into the line.

Also, if the master cylinder ever was EMPTY, then you may have to bleed the cylinder itself. This is done by disconnecting the brake line (rear brake, the one you just had off) from the cylinder, and putting a hose from the line inlet in a small loop back into the master cylinder's reservior. Then, pump the brakes. The cylinder will then pump the fluid directly back into itself. The idea is that you do not let the master cylinder pull any air back into itself, from the line inlet. So, as the cylinder pumps out the air, the only thing it can get back in is FLUID. Do this until there are no more bubbles coming out of the line.

Then perform the above-mentioned Bleeding Procedure. If you do the Bleeding Procedure correctly, and the fluid level in the master cylinder does NOT go down, and you are still not getting fluid to the bleeder screw, then that will tell you that you have to bleed the Master Cylinder.

Good Luck To You.

Jun 21, 2011 | 1994 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

The brake cylinder in the right rear tire started leaking. I changed it and bled the brakes., now they won't stop and will go all the way to the floor. where and how do I adjust them? THANK YOU jOE!


You may need to further bleed the brakes. Something pumping to bleed the brakes can **** in air at the brake fluid reservoir. Try using a vacuum pump to **** out brake fluid from the release screw at the brake side. Make sure you always have enough fluid at the reservoir.

Feb 28, 2011 | Chevrolet Caprice Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 1996 Chevrolet K3500 Dually has a hydraulic clutch, how do I change the fluid and bleed it.


FIRST REMOVE ALL OLD FLUID FROM CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU CAN USE A SIPHON YOU HAND PUMP.AUTO PARTS STORES SELLS THE HAND PUMP SIPHONS. THEY DONT COST MUCH AND KEEP FROM MAKING A MESS.SIPHON OUT MUCH AS YOU CAN THE OLD FLUID IN THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.THEN POUR IN THE NEW FLUID DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID IN CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.OKAY YOU NEED A HELPER.LOCATE THE SLAVE CYLINDER.REMOVE SLAVE CYLINDER HOLD SLAVE CYLINDER 45 DEGREES WITH BLEEDER SCREW LOCATED AT THE HIGHEST POINT.HAVE A SMALL DRAIN PAN UNDER SLAVE CYLINDER.HAVE HELPER FULLY DEPRESS AND HOLD THE CLUTCH PEDAL THEN OPEN BLEED SCREW.CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW AND HAVE HELPER RELEASE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.REPEAT THIS PROCESS UNTIL ALL THE OLD BRAKE FLUID AND AIR BUBBLES LEAVES THE HYDRALIC SYSTEM AND WHEN YOU CAN SEE GOOD STREAM CLEAN FLUID NO BUBBLES YOU HAVE GOOD SOLID CLUTCH ALL IS GOOD.MAKE SURE THROUGH THE BLEEDING PROCESS YOU DONT LET CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER.KEEP CLUTCH MASTER CYLINER FULL BRAKE FLUID WHILE DOING THE WHOLE BLEEDING AND FLUSHING PROCESS.

Jan 22, 2011 | 1996 Chevrolet C/K 3500

2 Answers

Just changed rotors and front brake pads. Pumped pressure back with break pedal. After you start vehicle all break pressure is lost- no breaks. Whats going on?


You are either low on brake fluid or you have a vacum problem. It is a long shot but possible the Master Cylinder is having an issue or an air bubble in the system. Start the vehicle and make sure it is blocked. With the engine running perform system bleeds on all four calipers. Pump 3 times then release bleed valve. You are going to need a couple bottles of brake fluid to bleed all these calipers and get the air out of the lines. You should make sure the primary vacum is connected to the master cylinder and that there are no leaks on any lines before you start the bleeding process.

Jun 24, 2010 | 1999 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

Bleeding brakes


You need to make sure you have an assistant. The assistant keep adding fluid and pumping the brakes while you operate the bleeder screws.

The procedure--LF,RF,LR,RR (left front, right front,etc). You are moving from the shortest brake line closest to the master cylinder to the longest brake line furthest from the master cylinder. Use an aquarium air hose (12 inch length), and a clear jar to catch the brake fluid. When no more bubbles escape through the hose, the caliper or cylinder is properly bled.

If the level drops below the LOW mark, air may reenter the system. Keep the reservoir full by checking after each bleed!

Mar 26, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Crew Cab

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