Question about 2004 Honda Accord

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Fitted new turbo to 2.0 hdi repaced engine oil/filter airfilter cleaned out all air/intake hoses oil feed pipes cleaned and clear problem when engine gets warm and you rev for 30 secs so turbo cuts in then engine starts torev by its self and smoke only part not cleaned out intercooler because of access is this problem

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  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    engine wont rev

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  • Honda Master
  • 22,095 Answers

Something not right here and without my greasy oily hands on it its difficult to say ,could be worn piston rings ,engine breather too much oil ,or a secondhand turbo thats worse than the one you took off ,check the engine breather first and the filter in it isnt blocked or missing

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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1 Answer

Where is the a/c expansion valve located on 2006 range rovrer


1 - Radiator
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9 - By-pass hose
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Aug 22, 2016 | 2006 Land Rover Range Rover

1 Answer

Mahindra scorpio 2002 model crde engine oil coming to air separator n turbo inlet from oil sump


Hi
Turbo cars do drag some oily residue through the inlet system and, if the hose seals are worn, wil drip oil. This is all ok..just clean up the hoses and fit new seals. Make sure you always flush engine oil and use a new oil filter with the CORRECT engine oil.
If the airways are not correctly serviced, air mass meters, sensors, throttle body, egr will all get clogged up.
Regular service saves money.
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Apr 21, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1991 audi I5 20v turbo moisture an oil in intake piping


check for blockages in the air filter system. replace the air filter. The only way that oil can get in to the turbo inlet hose is if the turbo is running in a vacuum and sucking oil fast the turbo seals Unless the turbo bearings are shot.

Dec 30, 2013 | Audi A4 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Vauxhall vectra 2.2 sri petrol,,it drives perfect apart from sitting at the lights it revs up and downbetween under 1000-2000 revs,,it also sucks air in when pull dip stick out or take oil cap off,,any...


check air filter and also clean out the idle valve also check the breather pipes coming off the cam cover. one goes to the intake pipe and one goes to the bottom off the intake chamber thin one that will be block for definite as they do. on the back of the engine there is a black pipe coming off the cam cover and goes to a metal pipe take that off clean out the ends and you will need somthing like a long metal bit of strip and put a hook on the end push that down the hole and lift out the burnt oil push down until when it comes out there is oil on the end. then that end is clear then. on the thine pipe off the cam cover you need to clean the pipe out and this is the difficult bit the part were it fits to the intake you need to clean that out it is hard to get to but you can do it without having to take it all apart. when clean and putting back together i used an inline fuel filter on this line and it stops it clogging up the line. when all clean out and put back together and check that it blows out the oil cap and not sucks engine should be fine after this. I have had to do this one time on mine ecotec engine did it 6 years back and is still nice and clear run for a few days then change the engine oil and filter. jobs done.

Feb 24, 2013 | Vauxhall Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Whaen car idles its fine but when driving it sputters an when it builds boost it blows the intake pipe off the throttle body an oil comes out of the throttle body


in your car the air ventilation system is freeze up causing a build up of pressure which caused the oil to burst out. there is the mosture sludge build up under the oil fill cap . its advisable to clean everything up and then check out by starting the car. also spray crab cleaner in the throttle body and check out. as per me the problem is causing because of :-- I guess the breather vent tube was full of oil - frozen in there somehow. Must have to do with that sludge buildup on my oil fill cap. This is the one coming off the front on the left side of the oil filter. It goes down under the engine. This blockage caused a pressure buildup in the crankcase which caused oil to blow by the pistons and into the combustion chamber and out into the air intake hose and throttle body. get the spark plugs removed and cleaned up all the oil. The reason it sputter is because of all the oil in the combustion chamber. No air could get in. get the oil change and insulate the breather pipe in case of future freeze ups. This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Saab 9 3 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Very occassionally i have loss of power and black smoke from the exhaust of my ford focas tdci estate 2002 model. It lasts for only about 500 yards then the smoke clears and it surges forward and is o.k.....


MAF?

The mass airflow sensor is located right after the airfilter and can be the source of the problem you describe.

Sounds like it is overfuelling during these episodes.


Oct 23, 2009 | 2002 Ford SVT Focus

1 Answer

WHISTLING BELOW TURBO


Its surely not turbo, its is somewhere a hole or leak in turbo air filter housing or air inlet pipe that is making noises when turbo sucks air. check the air pipes wheather they are fitted correctly. Take a keen look at air hose and close any hole with silver tape check the hose is fitted correctly in Turbo air filter housing (if not then it makes whistling noise when air is being sucked by turbo) . Clean all air filters and then give it a go.

May 07, 2009 | Peugeot Liberte Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 307 d-turbo, when i switch the engine on and accelerate the main air feed pipe runnig accross the front of the engine collapses, starving the engine of air


Could just be a soft / collapsed hose but check the air filter and intake for blockage or just a really dirty air filter. It the engine struggles to draw air it will collapse hoses.
Cheers
John

Jan 12, 2009 | 2005 Peugeot 405

1 Answer

I need instructions for replacing the turbo on a Saab 1999 9-5 4 cyl turbo


Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.

The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $

I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:

2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.

STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifoldmag-glass_10x10.gif. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse


Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.

1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.

2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.

3) You don't have to remove the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.

4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.

5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.

6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.

Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.

jeffo2 ort11


Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.

Dec 15, 2008 | 1999 Saab 9-5

3 Answers

Changing the Air Filter


ok i have the same body make model you do and i replaced my air filter and it is the correct one the airfilter when i saw it i thought the same but i got mine from vw dealer.
1. Make sure the car is off and the key is out of the ignition.
2. Make sure the engine is cold.
3. Disconnect the MAF and air intake sensors on the right side of the engine.
4. Pull the battery cover out.
5. Pull the air intake duct off (have fun with that large metal clamp...)
6. Unscrew (Torx10) the air feeding tube from the front (right side).
7. Pull the engine cover straight up - there are 4 rubber-suspended "legs" holding it. Pull the fronts first, from the corners. Pull the rears up too - wear gloves, can hurt yourself due to the force required.
8. The air filter is in the back section of the engine cover, on the underside. There are 5 screws to undo (no need to take them out, just un-screw). The air filter cover swings on rear hinges.
9. Put back in reverse order (filter, cover on engine, air intake duct, air feed tube screws, 2 connectors, battery cover).

Jul 09, 2008 | 2007 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5 Sedan

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