How do you seprate throwout bearing from pressure plate when changing the clutch

Umm...

A mechanical 'breaking noise' doesn't sound good. It's hard to diagnose a problem online without being there to see/hear the vehicle. But .. it may be that your clutch pressure plate has broken/ release/throwout bearing has broken?

It's difficult to see why the master cylinder should leak - unless it was incorrectly fitted in the first place?

Just to check ... The master cylinder is in the engine bay/compartment and is where you top up with clutch fluid. When a master cylinder fails it usually results in no pressure at the clutch pedal, not a leak.

The clutch slave cylinder is the one that does all the work. When you press the pedal hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder - which then pushes the release/throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate and 'disconnects' the driven plate .. allowing you to change gear.

The slave cylinder is the one that does all the hard work - it is located somewhere where engine and gearbox mate together, usually at the bottom right/left. It's usually the one that fails/leaks. It's quite easy to replace..

I don't think it is anything to do with reverse gear. It's more to do with the clutch pedal being depressed - and, I would suspect - something has failed.

The link below is generic images of a clutch:
clutch diagram Google Search

Basically, a clutch is 3 parts. There's the 'pressure plate' which bolts onto your flywheel. The pressure plate is a 'spring'. You depress the clutch pedal and the release/throwout bearing presses onto the centre of the pressure plate causing the 'fingers' - the springs - to bend back and take pressure off the driven plate - which is the link - the drive - between engine and gearbox.

If you have a leak your clutch will not work. This causes a 'grinding/crashing' noise when you try to change gear. The first thing you should do is check where the leak is coming from and do something about it.

The 'noise' that you mention may be due to the fact that the gears are 'grinding' as they try to mesh together without the use of the clutch.

The first thing you should do is check why there's a leak. It's difficult to see why a new master cylinder is leaking unless it was incorrectly fitted and damaged (pipes incorrectly connected..).

If it's the slave cylinder that is leaking - replace it. Easy job.

If Master cylinder and slave cylinder are ok - you have to look at your clutch unit. A clutch is always replaced with 3 parts ... throwout bearing/pressure plate and driven disk.

The gearbox has to come off. You can then work on the clutch. Change the clutch cover, pressure plate and throwout bearing all, it is not worth skimping. Examine the throwout fork carefully for excessive wear or cracks.

Hopefully only your linkage, but may also be your throwout bearing going pain to change but with right tools couple hrs work might as well change clutch and pressure plate as well cause that\'s a usual if changing bearing or clutch pressure plate needs to come off. But as I said I\'d check linkage first. Hope this helps

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt hatchback and sedan w/ 1.6L engine, 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.8L engine, and 1990-93 Vista

Fig. Fig. 2: Clutch driven and drive discs - 1990-93 all models

Fig. Fig. 3: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.5L engine, 1991-92 Colt hatchback and sedan w/4-speed and 1993 Colt hatchback and sedan w/1.8L engine

1. Remove the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
2. Insert a pilot shaft or an old input shaft into the center of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.
3. With the pilot tool supporting the clutch disc, loosen the pressure plate bolts gradually and in a crisscross pattern.
4. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
5. Clean the transmission and clutch housing. Clean the flywheel surface with a non-oil based solvent. Wash your hands before installing or handling the clutch assembly parts. Hold the clutch disc by the center hub only.

Before assembly, slide the clutch disc up and down on the transmission input shaft to check for any binding. Remove any rough spots with crocus cloth and then lightly coat the shaft with Lubriplate.

1. To remove the throwout bearing assembly: Remove the return clip and take out the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing.
2. To replace the throwout arm use a / 16 in. punch, knock out the throwout shaft spring pin and remove the shaft, springs, and the center lever.
3. Do not immerse the throwout bearing in solvent; it is permanently lubricated. Blow and wipe it clean. Check the bearing for wear, deterioration, or burning. Replace the bearing if there is any question about its condition.
4. Check the shafts, lever, and springs for wear and defects. Replace them if necessary.
5. If you hadn't planned on replacing the clutch disc, examine it for the following before reusing it. Loose rivets. Burned facing. Oil or grease on the facing. Less than 0.3mm left between the rivet head and the top of the facing.
6. Check the pressure plate and replace it if any of the following conditions exist: Scored or excessively worn. Bent or distorted diaphragm spring. Loose rivets.
7. Insert the control lever into the clutch housing. Install the two return springs and the throwout shaft.
8. Lock the shift lever to the shaft with the spring pin.
9. Fill the shaft oil seal with multipurpose grease.
10. Install the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing. Install the return clip.
11. Grease the carrier groove and inner surface.
12. Lightly grease the clutch disc splines.

The clutch is installed with the larger boss facing the transmission.

1. Support the clutch disc and pressure plate with the pilot tool.
2. Turn the pressure plate so that its balance mark aligns with the notch in the flywheel.
3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts head-tight. Using a torque wrench and, working in a crisscross pattern, tighten the bolts to 11-15 ft. lbs.
4. Install the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
5. Adjust the clutch as described in the following information.

You may have a bad throwout bearing which is not good as the transmission will need to be pulled to replace it, If replacing the throwout bearing it is usually a good idea to also replace the clutch plate at the same time. This can be caused by keeping pressure on the clutch pedal while driving causing the throwout bearing to be constantly engaged therefore wearing out the bearing.

It sounds like your throwout bearing is shot. There is a bearing called a throwout bearing that goes against the clutch forks when you push on the clutch, which causes the pressure plate to release the clutch which also releases tension from the input shaft which lets you change gears.
Replace that throwout bearing and I think you will find all your troubles gone. Hopefully it hasnt ruined the pressure plate forks. if your pressure plate forks are good there is not need to replace the clutch though if there is lots of miles on it you might choose to go ahead and do it since the transmission will be out anyway. Of course that is a lot more money. the choice is yours though so dont let a shop talk you into it if you dont want to.
Cheers.

Most modern clutches are hydraulic. It may be that either the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder are stuck or some sort of restriction in the line. Or, it may be that the throwout bearing or pressure plate have some sort of issue (this requires pulling the tranny and looking at the clutch, pressure plate (plate that rides against the clutch with springs to engage the clutch) and throwout bearing (bearing on the arm that presses against the pressure plate to engage the clutch).

Of course, I am assuming you have checked for any outside restrictions that would not allow the pivot arm to retract (missing spring or piece of ice or debris stuck in there).

Just some ideas :)

throw out baring was inproperly installed

two things to mind, sometimes when you get a new clutch it comes with blocks in pressure plate there put in there from the factory for shipping purposes, they have to be removed otherwise it will do what you discribe. secound if you got the wrong length throwout bearing will do it to. most likely its one or the other. if you sure everything is right as far as clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing, than the only other thing i can say it could be is slave cyl. bad. hope this helps. OLD SCHOOL.

you have 20k miles after the clutch has been changed, now are you used to drving clutch, secondly is it hydraulic or cable controled clutc?

if you are used to drving clutch sys probable cause is defective pressure plate or the throwout bearing is not fully releasing in other words the clutch is partialy applied all the time because of the re;ease bearing not fully releasing!!