Question about 1990 Chevrolet K2500
On that year make and model,it is supposed to be there if it is inside the bell housing.then the transmission has to be removed to access the slave cylinder,it is a manual transmission isnt it?
Posted on Aug 21, 2010
The clutch slave is on the side of the gearbox you cant miss it the only thing that has a direct leverage into the gearbox.adrian,,,,,,,,
Posted on Aug 21, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder
if you loosten the slave bleeder screw and push in the clutch pedal fluid should come out if not make sure someone holds down the pedal and tighten the screw then pump the clutch a few times and hold the pedal and open the screw if no fluid repeat a couple of times if still no fluid you need either a new master cylinder or just rebuild it( normally cheaper) and if you rebuild it make sure you flush all the lines of debris
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
I understand these cars have a sealed clutch system. When they fail you replace the whole kit master,hydrolic pipe and slave (comes in one piece). Search on ebay maybe £45 or so.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
SOURCE: clutch slave cylinder
Yes, it is located on the passenger's side of the car at the front lower side of the transmission.
You will need the following tools: 12mm and 14mm socket. The slave cylinder could be bolted to the bell housing using either size bolt head.
A 14mm and 17mm open end wrench. The hose to the slave cylinder could be found with either size.
a 10mm combination wrench for the bleeder screw. A small set of vice grip pliers.
Removal and installation instructions for the slave cylinder:
1.Take the small set of vice grip pliers and adjust them to where they just barely close down on the slave cylinder hose. Just enough to pinch off the flow of fluid but not damage the hose.
2. Using the 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, break the hose loose from the slave cylinder, turning it in a counter clockwise direction. Make sure you have the wrench squarely on the fitting to avoid rounding it off.
3. using either the 12 or 14mm socket, remove the two bolts which hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
4. At this point with the slave cylinder lose, have the replacement part near by, make sure you have the copper crush ring with it.
5. Holding the hose, rotate the slave cylinder counter clockwise, spinning it off the hose.
The replacement part should have a small metal rod and rubber cover which retains it to the slave cylinder. Make sure to remove the old copper crush ring and put the new one on the end of the hose. If the part did not come with one, reuse the old one. Spin the new part on the hose and place it back on the bell housing, making sure that the rod fits into the steel linkage which projects out from inside the transmission. There is a shallow hole which the rod should fit in. Holding the part in place, don't try to tighten the hose yet, screw both bolts in by hand and tighten them. Make sure you have them both in before you go tightening anything.
6. Tighten the hose, a good snug pull is all that is needed. you don't have to crank down on the line.
Now you can remove the pliers.
7. At this point you will need the assistance of another person. Have them sit in the car, you top off the clutch master cylinder (the one which has just one resevoir) with DOT 3 brake fluid. See if you can find a small container to catch the fluid in, or just use an oil drain pan. With you stationed under the car with the 10mm wrench on the bleeder screw ready to open it up in a counter clockwise direction, have your friend ready to pump the clutch pedal.
HAVE THEM PUMP THE PEDAL AND TELL THEM TO "HOLD IT" They should keep the pedal on the floor while you open the bleeder screw up.
Some fluid and air may or may not come out the first time you open the bleeder. Close it and tell them to pump the pedal again. They need to pump the pedal at least 5 times and them tell them to "Hold It" again, holding it to the floor. Don't open the bleeder until they have the pedal to the floor.
Open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat the procedure until you see just fluid and no air coming out.. After the first three times you bleed it, check the clutch master fluid level again. Avoid running the reservoir empty other wise you will be bleeding the cluch for quite a while.
Brake fluid will attack paint so if you spill any on the paint, pour water on it and it will neutralize it. DO NOT GET WATER IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!!!
If everything goes well, by the fourth or fifth time you have had them pumped the pedal, you will notice the slave cylinder is pushing the release arm and the person in the car should be feeling a normal clutch pedal along with the "pedal free play" being roughly 1/2 " from the top.
I hope I not only answered your question, but have supplied you all the necessary information should you be up to the task of changing it.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
work it back and forth with your hand and you will get pedal after a while then bleed like you would brakes get help so one can pump and the other can bleed
Posted on May 24, 2009
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