Question about Acura RSX

2 Answers

I have an rsx type s ok. i have put about 150 miles on my motor on a fresh rebuild. the first 130 miles the car ran great. all of a sudden the engine light comes on and i hear a slight stumble at around 2700 rpms. the engine lights that are on are p1298 which has come and gone since i started my car, after the rebuild, and 0301 cylinder 1 misfire. over the course of the next 20 miles it got worse and worse. at this time it sounds like my car is running on 3 cylinders. when i checked the codes agian there was 6. random misfire, misfire on 1, 2 ,3 ,4,cylinders, knock sensor and p1298. the only aftermarket parts on my car are blueprint springs and retainers, and a skunk 2 chain tensioner. i checked compression and its good all across the board and i am getting spark on all four cylinders but when i pull plug on cylinder number one it is wet and smells like raw gas. all the other plugs look normal. any one with info that can tell me what to check next that would be great.

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  • jayrosenkran Aug 20, 2010

    i have a cheap scanner from autozone and i have cleared the codes if thats why u want me to disconnect the battery. i have pretty much much eliminated the plugs and the coil packs themselves because i have swapped the plugs and switched the coil packs from cylinder to cylinder and the problem always occurs one cylinder 1. its wierd i can pull the plug and put it in the coil pack and ground it out and see the plug spark. it has very strong spark. but when i pull the plug after it has been running it is wet and smells like fuel. any new ideas or can u give me more info on how to test the sensors . thanks

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    Misfire cylinder 4 , check engine lights

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2 Answers

Check your fuel injectors and set the ignition timing. Replace your spark plugs, spark plug wires, oxygen sensor, dist cap and rotor

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

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  • Master
  • 630 Answers

Try disconnecting the battery for 2 minutes then re install the negative cable and drive it see if the comoputer was sending out wrongful electronic tasks to other sensors, if it doesn't change I would look into the coil pack...test for power to the coil and spark cranking, check the cam/crankshaft sensors they can be tested by means of an expensive scanner/reader tool that reads the voltage values of the sensors while the engine is running.
Definately sounds like spark(ignition) is the culprit not fuel, you may even want to have the ignitor module tested as well on the same testing scanner.

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

  • JOHN DAVIDSON Aug 20, 2010

    THAT LITTLE SCANNER FROM THE ZONE AIN'T GONNA MAKE IT HAPPEN, IT'S COOL I HAVE ONE TOO NIOW MY SHOPS ARE CLOSED DOWN BUT THEY JUST GET YA A LITTLE WAY IN THE DOOR...ALSO REMEMBER WHILE TESTING THE COMPUTER SYSTEM, THEY ARE NOT TO BE SPIKED OR OTHERWISE PRICKED BY A TEST LIGHT ETC., ALL CONNECTORS ARE AIR/WATER TIGHT TO KEEP THE MILI VOLTS FLOWING EVENLY TO AND FROM THE ECM....SORRY FOR THE CAPS I DONT LOOK AT THE SCREEN WHILE I'M TYPING UNTIL I'M FINISHED AND IT'S TOO LATE...I'M NOT YELLING!! LOL.

    UNFORTUNATELY SCANNING THESE SENSORS REQUIRES THE BIG MOMMA SCANNER THE BIG REPAIR SHOPS AND DEALERS HAVE, THEY ACTUALLY READ THE VOLTAGE WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING AND DRIVING, WHEN A SENSOR STARTS TO FAULTER THEY WILL SHOW A VALUE DIFFERENT FROM THE RECOMMENDED VALUES IT IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE, THEY DO HAVE SOMETHING THAT CAN BE ATTACHED TO THE SYSTEM THAT CAPTURES THE CONDITION WHILE YOU DRIVE IF IT CAN'T BE FOUND, BUT I AM SURE THIS IS AN EXPENSIVE ORDEAL AND I NEVER SEEN IT DONE BEFORE JUST HEARD OF IT I THINK IT IS A DEALER THING ONLY??

    A GUESTIMATION ON ALL THIS SEEMS TO BE SOMETHING ERRATIC IN THE CAMSHAFT/CRANKSHAFT SENSOR CIRCUIT, THEY DO BREAK DOWN ALSO HOW IS THE TIMING BELT OR CHAIN??? IS IT SLIPPING???

    IS THERE AN IGNITOR IN THIS SYSTEM THAT MAY BE FAILING?(THIS WOULD BE THE PART THAT FIRES THE PLUGS FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR IF IT'S SO EQUIPPED)

  • JOHN DAVIDSON Aug 29, 2010

    You have the distributor on the money correct???When you are on #1 the piston is up, the #1 valves are closed, the rotor is on one,and the companion cylinder's piston is also topped out with both valves closed...this is done as a final check.

    A companion cylinder is this:

    IF you have a firing order of 1 4 3 2 OK you take the 1 and 4 and under them you place the 3 and 2, which makes 1 and 3 companions and 4 and 2 companions, all the while you are on zero timing mark.

    If you are off a tooth this can occur as well.

    Hope this helps....

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