In trying to start car, it seems like the battery was removed. There is a switch under the hood, white plunger, on the drivers' side and depressing it a couple of times seems for the problem to go away. However, the problem came back again. Leo

ST/LP, Fuse 12, 25 Amp - feeds battery positive to brake switch ORN (orange) and out the WHT (white).

Test with a simple automotive incandescent test lamp to ground. Test lamp should light on both sides of the fuse and with contact to the switch ORN and to WHT while brake depressed.

Try putting it in neutral and starting it. If it starts, it is the neutral safety switch. If not, look under dash at the brake peddle arm. There is a switch on it for the brake lights and safety when starting. Make sure it ismaking good contact.. Make sure the battery cables are not caroded where they connect to the solenoid. The solenoid is under the hood by the battery. Tha hot cable connects to it on one side, and then a cable that goes to the starter is on the other side. Take the hot side loose and clean it with sandpaper. If it is covered with a white powder, coke or pepsi removes it real well. Reconnect it and try to start it. If it doesn't start, check the small wire on the solenoid. It connects to the front most small post on the side. You can take it loose, and with the switch on, you can take a screwdriver and touch the battery cable you just cleaned and the post at the same time and the engine should turn over and start. If it does start, then youre ignition switch is bad. You can hook a push button starter or replace switch.

Per my local dealership this problem has been identified by Hyundai and a service bulletin released. There is a plunger-type limit switch under the hood (passenger side front corner - easy to see) that isn't being depressed enough by a small rubber bumper attached to the underside of the hood. The fix is to replace the existing bumper with one that is slightly longer. The replacement part number is 92736-3M000 "Pad-Lid Switch". It cost me 80 cents with tax. Just pull the old one out and push the new one in.

Hello. Under your brake pedal is a switch with a plunger on, that activates your lights when depressed. Just follow up along the pedal and you will see (probably) a white switch. It sounds like the plunger switch is stuck in. These are quite cheap to replace and you might be able to prise the plunger switch out to turn the brake lights off

Hello. Under your brake pedal arm is a switch with a plunger on, that activates your lights when depressed. Just follow up along the pedal and you will see (probably) a white switch. It sounds like the plunger switch is stuck in. These are quite cheap to replace and you might be able to prise the plunger switch out to turn the brake lights off

An electrical switch located on the upper side of the brake pedal arm. It has voltage going to it, and when you depress the brake pedal, the switch closes and let the voltage go to the brake lights. (These switches are adjustable)

I suspect your brake light switch has gone on the fritz. There is a small mechanical switch mounted up under the drivers side with a plunger that protudes out toward the brake down pivot leg. That switch plunger just makes contact with that brake leg so that the plunger is pushed in slightly by the return action of the brake leg. If that leg does not make proper contact, then the switch may cause the brakes to flash on and off. The switch must be positioned so that it makes just enough to hold the plunger in just enough to turn off the lights but allow the brake lights to come on just as soon as you depress the brake slightly, warning the driver behind.

Access to that switch is removing a under dash panel in the drivers side well and the switch may be adjusted with a small bolt on the mounting plate. You have to get in from the passenger side , roll over on your back with your head down in the drivers side well. remove the panel screws and there is the switch. a replacement can be purchased on line for 8-15 bucks.

1) Unplug the Brake Light Bulbs and with a Voltmeter, check for voltage on both sides.
2) If you have voltage: change the bulbs and recheck operation.
3) If you do NOT have voltage: go under the dash on the drivers' side. Look up onto the arm of the Brake Pedal. There should be a switch behind the arm, On the switch should be a plunger. With a partner at the rear of the vehicle: Depress the plunger in, and have your partner check for Brake Lights.
4) If you now have Brake Lights: the plunger and/or switch can be adjusted. The Brake Arm when depressed, pushes-in the plunger activating the Brake Lights. Some Plungers can be unscrewed (counterclockwise) to shorten the gap to the Brake Arm,
5) If you still have NO Brake Lights: Twist the Switch/Plunger 1/4 turn, removing it off the support bracket. Unplug this Switch and again check for voltage.
6) If you have voltage: the Switch is bad and needs to be replaced.
7) If you still have NO voltage: Check the fuses.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Is this a 1998 or 2000?
1) Unplug the Brake Light Bulbs and with a Voltmeter, check for voltage on both sides.
2) If you have voltage: change the bulbs and recheck operation.
3) If you do NOT have voltage: go under the dash on the drivers' side. Look up onto the arm of the Brake Pedal. There should be a switch behind the arm, On the switch should be a plunger. With a partner at the rear of the vehicle: Depress the plunger in, and have your partner check for Brake Lights.
4) If you now have Brake Lights: the plunger and/or switch can be adjusted. The Brake Arm when depressed, pushes-in the plunger activating the Brake Lights. Some Plungers can be unscrewed (counterclockwise) to shorten the gap to the Brake Arm,
5) If you still have NO Brake Lights: Twist the Switch/Plunger 1/3 to 1/4 turn, removing it off the support bracket. Unplug this Switch and again check for voltage.
6) If you have voltage: the Switch is bad and needs to be replaced.
7) If you still have NO voltage: Check the fuses.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Interesting!... Did you bend the hood when you took the battery out? Here's a possible cause. On the right hand side of the engine compartment is a hood switch (part of the burglar alarm system.. here's a pic)
On the underside of the hood is a rubber button which depresses this switch when you close the hood. If it's missing, then the switch is not being depressed all the way (and can cause the symptom you are experiencing). OR, you bent the hood and the rubber button on the underside of the hood is not pushing the switch all the way down (a wind gust can lift the hood just enough to activate this switch) which sets off the alarm. Hope this helps.