Question about 1992 Ford Taurus
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The engine mounts (2) and the transmission mount serve to hold the drive train compontents in the chassis and do so flexibly and with the strength exceeding the torque generated by the engine. If not for the mounts, when opening the throttle (in gear), the engine and transmission would lurch out of the engine compartment!
Check the mounts by raising the hood and, with the engine running, holding the brake firmly with one foot, select drive or reverse, briefly accellerate while holding the brake firmly--observe while doing this the engine will rise slightly (good) to a couple of inches (not good). Do not let the car move, nor let anyone stand in the car's path were it to move. Accellerate for not more than two seconds when checking the mounts.
To change them you need to raise the car and safely support on jackstands under the side rail of the car in the indicated position. I have been able to do this raising only the passenger side.
Then you will need to carefully lift the engine, too. I have used a hydralic "bottle Jack" placed under the block at the edge of the oil pan.
Using 18mm wrenches loosen the nuts at the top and bottom of the mounts. I change one mount at a time. Remove the nutsand the the worn mount (careful- it's fluid filled-- nasty stuff, you would not like spilling it on yourself).
You may have to lift the engine quite high and wiggle the mount around to clear getting it out and the new one in. Orient the mount correctly so that the tabs fit the slots, start the nuts on the studs carefully, you don't want these cross threaded, then tighten completely, having lowered the engine fully onto the new mount first.
Check the new mount as described above.
Be very careful in doing all of this. Use tire chalks, set the parking brake. Check that the car is secure on the stands prior to getting under it. Use common sense too.
Posted on Jun 16, 2009
you have to take the door panels off. remove all screws you will have plastic pieces called christmas trees that hold the panel in place. there is a tool for this you can pick it up at Napa for cheap this will allow you access to the inner space of the door un plug plugs to power switchs and the rod to your door catch hardeware you then can remove panel completely to get access to mirror assembly. installation of door panel is in reverse
Posted on Aug 31, 2008
It is not necessary to have the dealer do this, think of the cash! Though it does require patience and time. The pin you are supposed to push in goes into a slot when you have it in run position, since you cannot turn it to run you have to make a slot for the pin to go into, with a drill. Be very careful as you only have a 1/4" of play before you break a washer behind the cylinder. Once you have drilled out the key far enough to the pin hole you can take a nail set and tap the pin up, you can tell when the pin clears the housing, then it just takes wiggle, patience and tinkering to get the cylinder to slide out, keep the green washer and the metal slot washer. Metal slot washer goes in first with green plastic washer ontop of that with lock cylinder in last. You can play around with the new lock cylinder and washer before insertion to determin correct direction.
Here are official directions with inoperable lock cylinder. They say drill out retaining pin but it just spun in circles for me - I looked at new cylinder and saw how it worked. retaining pin needs a place to go.
Removal & Installation (Non-Functional)
NOTE:Use this procedure to remove ignition lock cylinder if key is missing or cylinder is frozen.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Disable air bag system. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS. Wait at least one minute for air bag back-up power supply to deplete. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Using a 1/8" bit, drill out retaining pin located below lock cylinder on housing. DO NOT drill deeper than 1/2".
Using channel lock pliers, twist lock cylinder cap until it separates from lock cylinder. Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill down center of ignition lock key slot about 1 3/4" until lock cylinder breaks loose from its base.
Remove retainer, washer, and lock cylinder gear from housing. Remove metal shavings from lock cylinder bore. Replace housing if damaged. To install, reverse removal procedure. Connect negative battery cable. Check air bag system for proper system operation. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS.
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
Here's a link that may help you.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 16, 2014 | 1992 Ford Taurus
Aug 28, 2010 | 2003 Ford Taurus
Oct 07, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus
Aug 02, 2009 | 1992 Ford Taurus
Jul 29, 2009 | 1992 Ford Taurus
Mar 24, 2009 | 1989 Ford Taurus
446 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: