Question about 1997 Mitsubishi Galant

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Driving to work - v6 auto galant 1997 lost all drive, made no sounds or noises - start fine, engages park but has no drive - driveshaft checked by aa and is fine

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Torque converter has a splined hole that has stripped on the splined axle shaft coming out of the transmission. Because of this the power is not being transferred from engine to the transmission. You may be able to replace just the torque converter ( under $200 ) to repair the car if the splined axle shaft on the transmission is not stripped or broken. If the actual transmission is damaged the repair cost could go up astronomically.

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

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94' Galant "CHECK ENGINE" appears when accelerated at 2000 rpm, what migth be the problem,please help...

Posted on Aug 20, 2011

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Got a 95 mitsubishi galant 4 cil starter/flywheel noise


If this noise is really loud you will need to replace the flywheel or flexplate (if automatic transmission it is called a flexplate) and the starter, both of the gears that drive the engine rotation during start up are damaged. This damage is likely due to a bent or cracked flexplate if it is a auto transmission or a defective starter engagement drive, this causes the starter motor gear to not fully engage the flywheel gear teeth and causes damage, the damaged death cause the loud noise you here when you start the car. No matter the cause of this there is only one fix, a new flywheel or flexplate and a new starter.

Nov 09, 2011 | 1995 Mitsubishi Galant

3 Answers

4wheel drive wont engage


First, start checking the fuses an there is also an electrial activaced switch at the transmission or transfer case that may be bad.

95-96
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4auto, 4low.

First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.
Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels may or may not turn. Do not be alarmed if they don't turn. This is normal for your vehicle.
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle. Place your foot firmly on the brakes, place the transmission in NEUTRAL, engage 4low, then place the vehicle back in park. DO NOT ENGAGE ANY GEAR!! The lurch as the transmission engages could cause the vehicle to lurch and potentially fall off the jack stands.**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. This could be due to a mechanical problem with the diff, or a failure of the center axle disconnect to engage the passenger side axle shaft. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.

Troubleshooting the CAD on a 95-96 is a bit more involved than I want to get into here, and the problems can vary widely. This'll get you started.


97-01 4-door and 96-00 Sports
Your control knob should say 4auto, 4high, 4low.
First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.

Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


'01-'03 Sport and '01-'05 Sport Trac
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4high, 4low

The transfer case in these trucks functions essentially like the 1st-gens' 13-54 t-case. (i.e. it uses a lockup collar engaged by the transfer case shift motor) The troubleshooting procedure is very similar, but you don't need to worry about hubs or center-axle disconnects engaging.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. The shift motor could be falsely reading an incorrect t-case position, or it could be a mechanical issue with the case itself. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If it does, the system should be properly engaged. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground and take it for a test drive. If the wheels do NOT spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front differential or axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


Keep us updated.

Dec 16, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

1999 Galant


front clutch has gone by the sound of it,fit a manual gearbox then use gears to use engine as brake on a descent in future.

Mar 04, 2009 | 1997 Mitsubishi Galant

1 Answer

Transmission delayed engagement at cold start


Depending on how Cold it is where you are, The cold will effect the Operation of the Tranny. I am pretty sure that your Tranny is Fine, Just Really Cold. Depending also on where you live, I use Valvoline Quick Change to service my Vehicles when I am on the Road. Have never had a Problem with them. On the Fluid, They make so many Different Kinds now adays that it is hard to Choose. Look in the Back of your Owners Manual and Use what is Suggested in there.

Jan 25, 2009 | 2003 Mitsubishi Galant

1 Answer

Transmission


Did you take the driveshaft out of the truck and check the u joints ? some times its hard to tell with the driveshaft still in the truck.

Aug 03, 2008 | 2006 Dodge Dakota

2 Answers

91 tlc full time 4wd


Found this on internet for mine (can't remember where). Checking on serviceablity for ujoints etc to clarify but heard this from another mechanic one day.

The
noise you are describing is normal for landcruisers with some miles on
them. The noise is drivetrain backlash, while it may not be in
specification 100%, it is fine to continue driving.
Basically the backlash is all the "slack" that is in your system... starts in the transmission,
then you add in the driveshafts slack, them the rear differentials...
all of that combined equals slack that when you let off the gas "thumps
or clunks".
I believe that your driveshaft is not a rebuilable (checking on this)
type (no servicable u-joints=toyota thing) and replacing just that
probably would not be enough to make it go all away.
For 190k, again, this sounds very normal and will cause you no issues.
I hope this has helped, have a good dayAuto Tech Guy -- Friendly Toyota Tech. -- 100% Positive Feedback on 222 Toyota Accepts
Toyota Certified Technician, ASE Accredited, Engine rebuilder, Turbo specialist, Engine Diangnosis

Jul 22, 2008 | 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

Automatic transmission/engine noise


damage is possible if driveshaft does not have room for movement and slams in transmission. sounds like your pump is going bad

Jun 02, 2008 | 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2WD

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