Question about 1999 Ford Taurus

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1999 Ford Taurus 3.0L OHV won't hold coolant? HELP!! A quick background, anyone that knows these cars, knows that the heater core lines are made of metal and bolted to the fire wall. Those developed pinholes all along their length, bypassed them by cutting and blocking rubber lines that fed into metal hoses, over time, the coolant expansion tank cracked. I have since replaced the tank, bought 5 foot of 5/8 Heater Line, and restored the heater core, making sure lengths we're equal to the metal lines. PROBLEM: Every time I shut the engine off, coolant spews out like a geyser, you can also hear the radiator bubbling coolant and air through the coolant tank. I was told this is a closed coolant system and I will need to bleed it. Was told to run engine to normal operating temps, than let it run with cap off expansion tank, and keep adding fluid, told it could take 30-40m. Have done this, out using car for deliveries, the car never over heats, but everytime I shut it off, I lose alot of coolant. So I figured, maybe it was over filled? So I leave it alone, engine does not over heat, and after several shut-offs and coolant loss, the fans will not turn off, and I have barely any heat from the heater core. Fill it back up with 50/50 mix, as soon as I shut car off, it boils over again. Any ideas? Am I not bleeding properly?

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  • Ford Master
  • 1,871 Answers

Hello! There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) #1-15-6 that addresses electrolysis in the cooling system...If this TSB has been installed on your vehicle...There will be a tag on the drivers door with the TSB #...Also, a restrictor will be inserted into the heater core inlet...Lets eliminate this right up front...Check to see if this TSB is installed...
The vehicle does have a closed system...Electrolysis, coupled with air in the system is the likely culprit...Replacing the metal lines with rubber will increase electrolysis, which turns the coolant to a "goop"...Coolant flow is adequate when being pumped, but when you shut the engine off the goop blocks the system...Pressure is high...So coolant spews out...
I'll send a test to determine the level of electrolysis...You will need a DIGITAL multimeter...We'll fix the the electrolysis...flush the system...replace the thermostat...And properly bleed the air...Send comment about TSB and do yo have the digital meter...Guru...........Saailer

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

Testimonial: "No, TSB is not installed. No label, and there was nothing in the heater core inlet when I re-did the system. I own a DMM."

  • David Burbee
    David Burbee Aug 20, 2010

    Hello! Start engine...Bring to operating temperature...Turn heat and fan on high...Have someone hold throttle at 2000 RPM...Put the + meter probe into the coolant...Put the - meter probe on the - battery post...Set meter to read .5 volts...If you read .4 volts, electrolysis is the problem...The current flow in in the coolant needs to be grounded...Otherwise components will rot...Adding extra grounding; Multiple straps From - battery post to chassis and engine block helps but does not eliminate the fault...Coolant flowing through rubber hoses makes the problem worsen...Here is a fix that was developed by an engineer ford owner...Cut out the longest hose run and insert a copper water line that fits the ID of the heater hose...Prepare the cooper line by silver soldering a battery ground cable to it...Insert and hose clamp the line in place...Solder a ring connector to the end of the ground cable and connect it to the engine block or chassis...When current charged coolant flows through the pipe it is taken to ground; Virtually eliminated...Here is a general procedure to flush, clean, re-fill, and bleed............Guru..........................Saailer

    303-03-1 Engine Cooling 303-03-1
    GENERAL PROCEDURES
    Cooling System Draining, Filling and NOTE: The addition of Cooling System Stop Leak
    Bleeding Pellets, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine
    Coolant from yellow to golden tan.
    Special Tool(s) NOTE: Less than 80% of coolant capacity can be
    RADIATOR REFILLER recovered with the engine in the vehicle. Dirty,
    078-00592 rusty or contaminated coolant requires replacement.
    1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a
    hoist. For additional information, refer to
    Section 100-02.
    2. Release the pressure in the cooling system by
    Material slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half
    Item Specification to one turn counterclockwise to the first stop on
    the filler neck. When the pressure has been
    Motorcraft Premium Gold WSS-M97B51-A1
    released, remove the pressure relief cap.
    Engine Coolant with
    Bittering Agent (US only)
    VC-7-B (US); CVC-7-A 3. Remove the front splash shield.
    (Canada); or equivalent
    (yellow color) 4. Place a suitable container below the radiator
    draincock. Drain the coolant.
    Draining
    5. Close the radiator draincock and install the
    WARNING: Never remove the pressure front splash shield when finished.
    relief cap while the engine is operating or when
    the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these Filling and Bleeding with RADIATOR
    REFILLER instructions can result in damage to the cooling
    system or engine or personal injury. To avoid
    having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of NOTE: For vehicles equipped with an optional rear
    the degas bottle when removing the pressure heater, RADIATOR REFILLER must be used
    relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then whenever the underbody coolant lines and/or rear
    wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap heater core are drained or removed.
    and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure
    is released from the cooling system. When you 1. Install the RADIATOR REFILLER and follow
    are sure all the pressure has been released, (still the manufacturer’s instructions to fill and bleed
    with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief the cooling system.
    cap. Failure to follow these instructions can
    result in personal injury.
    NOTICE: The coolant must be recovered in a
    suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant
    is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed
    of correctly.
    NOTICE: All vehicle cooling systems are filled
    with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant
    or equivalent meeting Ford specification
    WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the
    cooling system with the same type of coolant that
    is present in the system. Do not mix coolant
    types.
    Copyright ã 2004, Ford Motor Company
    Last updated: 10/5/2008 2005 Freestyle, Five Hundred, Montego, 11/2004
    303-03-2 Engine Cooling 303-03-2
    GENERAL PROCEDURES (Continued)
    Filling and Bleeding without RADIATOR 1. Fill the degas bottle with the correct engine
    REFILLER coolant mixture to the degas bottle seam line.
    NOTICE: Engine coolant provides freeze 2. Install the pressure relief cap.
    protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and
    corrosion protection to the engine and cooling 3. Remove the retaining clip and the fill tab on
    components. In order to obtain these protections, the top of the thermostat housing and fill
    the engine coolant must be maintained at the through the thermostat housing until full.
    correct concentration and fluid level. When
    adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of 4. Install the fill tab and retaining clip.
    engine coolant and clean, distilled water.
    5. Select the maximum heater temperature and
    To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the
    blower motor speed settings. Position the
    cooling system:
    control to discharge air from the A/C vents in
    • Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant the instrument panel.
    or equivalent meeting Ford specification
    WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the same 6. Start the engine and allow it to idle until engine
    coolant that was drained from the cooling reaches normal operating temperature. While
    system. Do not mix coolant types. the engine is idling, feel for hot air from the
    A/C vents.
    • Do not add Motorcraft Specialty Orange
    Engine Coolant or an equivalent meeting Ford
    7. NOTICE: If the air discharge remains cool
    specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants
    and the engine coolant temperature gauge
    can degrade the coolant’s corrosion protection.
    does not move or the low coolant light comes
    • Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any on, the engine coolant level is low in the
    engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol engine and must be filled. Stop the engine,
    antifreeze. These can cause engine damage allow it to cool and fill the cooling system.
    from overheating or freezing.
    Run the engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 minutes.
    • Ford Motor Company does NOT recommend Hot air should discharge from the A/C vents.
    the use of recycled engine coolant in vehicles The engine coolant temperature gauge should
    originally equipped with Motorcraft Premium maintain a stabilized reading in the middle of
    Gold Engine Coolant since a Ford-approved the normal range, and the upper radiator hose
    recycling process is not yet available. should feel hot to the touch.
    NOTE: For vehicles equipped with an optional rear • Shut the engine off and allow it to cool.
    heater, RADIATOR REFILLER must be used • Check the engine for coolant leaks.
    whenever the underbody coolant lines and/or rear • Check the engine coolant level in the degas
    heater core are drained or removed. bottle and fill to the seam line.
    NOTE: The addition of Cooling System Stop Leak
    Pellets, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine
    Coolant from yellow to golden tan.
    2005 Freestyle, Five Hundred, Montego, 11/2004

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  • 1 Answer

Same Problem. I Fixed by..

Backflushed heater core at firewall.
Emptied and ran water and dish soap X 1 week, let it spew, Drained the murky no longer soapy water, Repeated backflush of heater core (nasty again). Drained system completely, replaced heater lines on firewall (Dealer $130), replaced bottle (aftermarket $30), replaced thermostat, refill 50/50 same problem.

Hooked up OBD2, drove around watched temps. Fans not coming on. Replaced BOTH sensors near thermostat, these are different, one os for OBC one is for fans, reflush yet again and fill.

NOTE: Use DISTILLED WATER if mixing 50/50 yourself. Also found ground off under battery brace to block from cables, probably the cause of the original corrosion.

Double check both fans make sure they spin. If you hook the sensors backwards the fans will run all the time, ODB reports 300F+ temp. I also dropped the thermostat to 180, but I'm in Phoenix.

Now to the !@#$%^ transmission cooler nightmare.

Posted on Oct 28, 2010

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